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So who's going to Vegas?
https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=8660
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Author:  greg0r [ Tue Mar 16, 2004 7:47 am ]
Post subject: 

Man, I cant imagine how much fun it would be to drive all the way out to Vegas and see all the Mopars! Unfortunetly.... I got final exams coming up soon, and it will be the same story for the next few years :(

Maybe In a few years I'll start going, once Ive graduated 8)

On the bright side, this gives me lots of time to work on the car!

Author:  Mike Andreas [ Tue Mar 16, 2004 9:10 pm ]
Post subject:  May day, may day!!! running out of time

Hit a snag tonight. I must have hit the fuel tank sender with the diff. The fuel line is loose at the plate and dripping. Is it welded in? Some kind of seal? Can I get one or fix mine tomorrow? JB Weld???

AND I got the wrong drums from the parts house. 4.5" bc. I replaced everything but the backing plate in the brakes. I even installed Stainless Steel lines I've had lying around for a year or so.

Drums I think I can get tmorrow. I pick up my shortened drive shaft in the morning. The sender is another story. That's all that's left.

HELP!

Mike

Author:  Pierre [ Tue Mar 16, 2004 10:18 pm ]
Post subject: 

Originally I think it was just crimped on. I had a leak there too with mine when I replaced the hoses, I must of yanked a bit too hard on the rubber line when removing it and seperated the small length of steel tube coming out just a tiny bit.

I'm not sure if JB Weld will hold under gas. I had someone weld mine (may of used some sort of special solder?) together and its holding so far. IIRC the metal circle that it attaches to is galvanized.

I don't know how desperate you are but new senders are availible for roughly $100 and I bet you can find a place thats willing to overnite one to you. Junkyards would be a good bet too.

Just be careful when removing/attaching the rubber hose to it.

Author:  Dart270 [ Wed Mar 17, 2004 6:42 am ]
Post subject: 

Mike,

Any sender from A-bodies '63-76 will work, so that opens up lots of possibilities for you. There's the overnight route, or just a local junkyard should have one, eh?

JB Weld would almost certainly work, and silver solder would be your best bet, although even radiator solder would work. Use a propane torch to heat the metal, put on some flux (or use flux core rad solder), and melt the solder onto the part.

Lou

Author:  Doc [ Wed Mar 17, 2004 11:20 am ]
Post subject: 

Yes, the sender tube is soldered into the cover plate, they do crack and drip.

Drain the fuel level to under 1/2 tank, pull-out the sending unit assy. and resolder it. It's pretty easy to do.

Keep "thrashing", you will get there!
Doug

Author:  Pierre [ Wed Mar 17, 2004 12:53 pm ]
Post subject: 

I would completely drain the tank or pull out the entire sender before soldering it. If you heat up the plate/tube to solder, you'll be heating up the entire tube behind it that extends into the tank, and thats a bit dangerous with something as volatile as gas. Also you might melt the rubber sealing ring between the tank and the sender.

Author:  Dart270 [ Wed Mar 17, 2004 1:17 pm ]
Post subject: 

HOLY #$%^! :shock: I totally meant for any soldering to be done w/sender outside the car. I didn't think of anyone trying it with the sender in place and gas dripping...

Lou

Author:  Mike Andreas [ Wed Mar 17, 2004 3:18 pm ]
Post subject:  Fear not!!

:D Let's see.

I got my drive shaft back fro Cannon with 1 7/8" removed. Won't know if it's right till tonight.

Got up early this morning and dropped the tank. The whole thing. Took it to a radiator guy I've used for years. He soldered it up for $25.

All of the brake parts are in. The parts guy is pulling his hair out. First he ordered 10" drums with 4.5" BC. Took those back this morning. I know I should always check. At lunch I went to pick up the drums, 4" BC 9" drums. :? I'm going by after work to see if he got it right this time. Those suckers were steep.

Still on schedule.

Author:  Pierre [ Wed Mar 17, 2004 3:37 pm ]
Post subject: 

Just incase the parts store guys don't come through, I have a pair of 10" SBP drums, brand new, sitting on the floor doing nothing. You can have them for what I paid + shipping (which I assume you would want overnite, not going to be cheap, but probably not too bad since I'm just east of SanFrancisco....) I recall looking around locally for these and no one could get them for me.

Just incase you need the part #: autospecialty (TRW brand) AD8344 10" x 1 3/4" (Be careful, there were also 10" x 2 1/2" drums used on b/e bodies as well).

Author:  Mike Andreas [ Wed Mar 17, 2004 3:53 pm ]
Post subject:  Stand by

I'm going by the parts store at 4:30. If they're not right you'll be the first to know. What's the cutoff for instate fedex/UPS? If I completely lose my mind I'll jack up my wagon and borrow those. Come to think of it They were the drums from the 8 3/4 I got from you Lou. See what happens when I try and cut corners.

Mike

Author:  Pierre [ Wed Mar 17, 2004 4:51 pm ]
Post subject: 

Just called a UPS store and they said 4:30. I'll try fedex next if need be.

Author:  Dart270 [ Wed Mar 17, 2004 8:23 pm ]
Post subject: 

Sounds like getting them off the wagon is by far the easiest. I knew I had sent drums with you...

Good job on the tank. Now you'll have a good test run of all your mods on the way to Vegas... :D

Lou

Author:  Mike Andreas [ Wed Mar 17, 2004 8:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Aaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

No good. I ran by my next best source. No good Discontinued!!! I have one more source in the morning. I didn't think 10" SBC 1 3/4 drums would be that hard.

Author:  Mike Andreas [ Wed Mar 17, 2004 8:37 pm ]
Post subject:  I wonder?

Could I put the 9" drum brakes on the 8 3/4 rearend? I know, It's stupid. Just might work

Mike

Author:  Pierre [ Wed Mar 17, 2004 8:38 pm ]
Post subject: 

Mike,

I couldn't believe how hard they were to find as well. I tried more then a handful of different parts stores/distributors and they either didn't show a listing or showed them as discontinued. I got mine from www.megapartsusa.com

Click on catalogue, then the first link "AA Mopar" then about 10 down is the rear brake drum section.

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