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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2018 5:31 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2018 1:20 am
Posts: 29
Location: Australia
Car Model*: VC valiant regal
Dart270 wrote:
Assuming your rings are OK, you should be fine. Did you do a compression test, by chance (engine warmed up), before you tore it down?

Here is the link to the Howards cam discussion:

http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=62844

The search function is very helpful on this board. If you search "howards" then that thread comes right up.

Lou

Thanks Lou, those Howard cam specs look pretty good for a street 225. Cheers


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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2018 7:14 pm 
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The best answer for that is "maybe". You just have to measure when you're putting it back together.

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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2018 9:31 pm 
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slantzilla wrote:
The best answer for that is "maybe". You just have to measure when you're putting it back together.

Sorry slantzilla, not sure who your answer is for. Are you referring to pushrods length after milling the head?
If so, are new specific length pushrods still Available to purchase? Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 6:13 am 
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67regal wrote:
Sorry slantzilla, not sure who your answer is for. Are you referring to pushrods length after milling the head?
If so, are new specific length pushrods still Available to purchase? Thanks


You can get pushrods made to any length you want. I just had a set made by Smith Brothers that were .200" shorter than stock. Manton will also make custom units.

Smith Brothers is http://www.pushrods.net .

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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 9:10 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2018 11:44 am
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Location: Payson, Az
Car Model*: 1974 Plymouth Duster
Ceej wrote:
The wires are part of the casting process. Once casting is complete, the sand is removed, but the wire that holds the sand during the pour remain in place.

CJ

10-4 on that. Thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 9:21 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

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Location: Payson, Az
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slantzilla wrote:
The best answer for that is "maybe". You just have to measure when you're putting it back together.

Ya, I haven't quite got there yet. Once the head is back on I will know for sure. Thanks for the Smith Bros tip big D. I have used them in the past. I have a cup / ball adjustable push rod, so I can figure out the needed length easy enough. Usually, I just send them my adjustable push rod and they return it with the right length push rods. No confusion that way.


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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 12:12 pm 
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Yes, they are very easy to work with. I've ordered 3 sets from them myself.

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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 5:03 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

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slantzilla wrote:
67regal wrote:
Sorry slantzilla, not sure who your answer is for. Are you referring to pushrods length after milling the head?
If so, are new specific length pushrods still Available to purchase? Thanks


You can get pushrods made to any length you want. I just had a set made by Smith Brothers that were .200" shorter than stock. Manton will also make custom units.

Smith Brothers is http://www.pushrods.net .


Thanks, that's awesome. Cheers


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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 11:47 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

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Location: Payson, Az
Car Model*: 1974 Plymouth Duster
Couldn't resist doing a little bowl blending while things were apart. Valves back cut 25*.


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bowlblend2.jpg
bowlblend2.jpg [ 201.23 KiB | Viewed 576 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2018 3:55 pm 
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Cool stuff John!

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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 8:52 pm 
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Bolted the head on today, along with the valve train. Keep in mind this is a 74 225 so it has solid lifters and adjustable rocker arms. With .090" cut off the head I did not need to buy shorter pushrods. Valves adjusted as normal ( in. .011" and ex. .022" ). Cup end of pushrods was closer to the rockers, but still had about .035" cup to rocker clearance at max lift - Running a stock cam. Not ideal, but rockers still sweep the valve stems ok, so I am gonna run it. Running a after market cam with more lift and or hydraulic lifters might need shorter pushrods? Anxious to fire it up, but still have some assemble work and exhaust modifications ahead of me.


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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2018 9:40 pm 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
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Some cams have a reduced base circle and do not necessarily need shorter pushrods. I talked to someone the other night who claims he ended up needing longer ones. Measure twice, buy once.

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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 2:19 am 
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One problem I had is that with the rocker screws backed out some to get proper lash, the threads were not enough into the "press" region to stay tight and the screws backed out while driving. At least you should check them after a few 100 miles (and then after 1000-2000) and make sure they are not backing out. If backing out, get shorter pushrods, or you could run jam nuts on the top sides of the screws.

Lou

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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Fri Oct 12, 2018 9:07 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2018 11:44 am
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Location: Payson, Az
Car Model*: 1974 Plymouth Duster
Dart270 wrote:
One probably I had is that with the rocker screws backed out some to get proper lash, the threads were not enough into the "press" region to stay tight and the screws backed out while driving. At least you should check them after a few 100 miles (and then after 1000-2000) and make sure they are not backing out. If backing out, get shorter pushrods, or you could run jam nuts on the top sides of the screws.

Lou

Will do. Thanks for the info.


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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 4:18 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2018 11:44 am
Posts: 25
Location: Payson, Az
Car Model*: 1974 Plymouth Duster
All back together. Runs real good - and on all 6 cylinders. :D I will get a few miles on it before I run a comp. test and check the valve adjustment. Seems to like a lot of lead. Running 10* BTDC ( on a stock electronic dist. ) now and might try a little more. Until I can put it on a dist. machine, I don't know what the stock curve looks like, or how much advance is in it? Running ported vacuum on the vacuum can. Might try manifold vacuum for grins. Again, not sure how much is in it. I can get away with murder up here at 5000 ft above sea level and 7.8:1 CR. :) I can now probably put the hurts to my Buddies Prius. :mrgreen:


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tower of power2.jpg
tower of power2.jpg [ 208.58 KiB | Viewed 435 times ]
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