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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 8:52 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Buddy of mine did the heavy/light flywheel thing in his 289/stick Falcon back in the early 80s. Took out a 40# wheel and replaced it with an 18# one. The car noticeably lugged off the line, but ran the exact same ET and picked up 2 mph.

Your mileage may vary. :lol:

You also have to consider a Coyote motor makes a lot more steam and probably has a 6 speed in it instead of 4.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 7:42 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 6:25 am
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Location: Tompkinsville, KY
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Speaking of lighter cranks, my 170 loves the aluminum flywheel 8)

I agree with the efforts to lighten the rotating assembly.
In between the launch/shifts, the flywheel starts storing energy again, becoming one more thing that the engine has to accelerate.
Same thing with those monster counterweights.
It's akin to gross hp ratings, underdrive pulleys, small alternators, etc.
Remember, the engineers were interested in making it idle smoothly for Aunt Matilda's Valiant and have enough grunt to move Uncle Leon's harvester.

I figure that unless you need the extra hit to launch a heavy car, go light.
If you're racing a slant in a heavy car, lighten the car too :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2018 10:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Just a thought...…….

Shouldn't the crank by itself be balanced...………

:?:

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 3:40 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Absolutely needs to be balanced.

Lou

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 03, 2019 9:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
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Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
My second pass with the saw, and some quality time with the grinder got it pretty darn close. We put it on the balancing apparatus, and found where the last of it needs to come from, at least roughly. Turned it over to the pro down in Junction City at this point. He'll find out which end is heavy, final balance it, and get into shape. Once it's all done we'll get the final weight. I doubt it's going to set any records in that regard, but it should be substantial enough to be noticeable. The last heavy area is in a secton that hasn't been drilled, between the rear cap and rod journal 6. The front, between the front main and rod 1 has been drilled on the same plane, so I suspect drilling the rear portion may do the trick. I'll leave that to the professional at this stage. :D

CJ

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 6:27 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2003 4:42 am
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Location: Cox’s Creek, KY
Car Model: More cars than sense...
This crank is destined for the FED?

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2019 11:09 am 
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Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Nope. Going in the 63 Dart GT.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 10:14 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
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Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
You get the crank back yet Ceej?

Hopefully the pro was eating salads... :shock:

~THOR~

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 1:47 pm 
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Well snicker-doodles.

I thought that low hour crank would be the shizbit. I asked Andy to mag it before spending any actual moolah. The #6 journal had a nasty crack, pretty much clean around the back of the journal. Apparently running the big CVT in the J-D Windrower didn't go easy on that crank. It was almost at balance with my second pass with the grinder though.

Note to self. Mag the crank before starting the slice and dice. Call that a trial run.

On the bright side, it'll make a nice lamp base for the shop or Mailbox post! The only other 225 forged piece I have out at the moment is the 4.220" Stroker crank. I don't want to use the long rods on that one. I could go after the 198 crank, but giving up that many cubes doesn't make any sense. I've still got my eye on putting that in a late 170 block I have tucked in the corner for a 210 build.

I've got a couple more 225's sitting under a tarp that need torn down for inspection. I need to get out to Kyle's to pick up the slant out of another farm implement too.

Back to the drawing board. I have a new blade in the saw, so it should go quicker next time.

CJ

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 4:46 am 
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Bummer about the crack. Just say no. Good luck on the next iteration...

Lou

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 4:48 am 
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Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Does a cracked crank sound different if you hang it up and hit it with a hammer?

If so, you might have a quick cracked crank test

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

8)


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 8:38 am 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Depending on where and how bad the crack is, it will have a dull sound when tapped.

I may have a decent steel core laying around if you need it Ceej. :D

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 9:05 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 10, 2002 8:49 pm
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Location: Longview Washington
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CJ

Want forged crank ? I have several.

Dave


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2019 9:52 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
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Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Well phooey.

At least we know what cuts and where. I'll come down and give ya a hand cleaning the shop up so we can tear another one down.

~THOR~

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 7:41 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
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Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Sweet! :D

If we don't find a good one in my pile of stuff, I'll come up and visit Dave!

What's for dinner? I'm starving! :mrgreen:

CJ

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