In preparation for the rebuild I have read over the forum and have the following questions:

1. Timing set. I am going for a mainly stock rebuild with the 2 barrel carb. Is the stock timing set ok? I see posts about upgraded timing set like cox bros, but don't know if I need upgrade with stock set up.

2. Cam. Should I stick with stock cam? I wouldn't want anything aggressive. But should I try a slightly upgraded cam? Which one?

3. Water pump. What brand water pump?

4. Oil pump. Is there a recommended oil pump? Or just stock replacement.

Anything else you can think of for a stock build for 2 barrel bbd. I just want it to run good. I plan on doing hei ignition.

Thanks. Craig

If you had clear goals you would probably get a lot more help. It also important to remember that each component of a rebuild has to work together. We can't possibly recommend a cam unless we know more about your build.

As for the questions regarding which parts, it doesn't mater much unless you're planning a crazy build (which you are not).

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'66 Dodge Dart

Josh,

My goals for the motor are as follows:

1. Performance = Stock Super Six Level is fine.

2. Reliability = Reliability is very important.

3. Durability = Durability is very important.

4. Smooth = I want it to run smooth and nice.

5. It would be great to not smell gas. My buddy has a hopped up big block mopar and when you get out of it you smell like a refinery.

To sum it up, it is cool to me to have a truck that I am 100% sure it will fire up and run right when I want to go somewhere in it. I don't want a super fast truck that breaks down because everything is on the edge or I keep finding the weak link.

Low, slow, and reliable is fine with me.

Thanks, Craig

what year is your truck?
Does it have mega miles or engine issues that need attention?
Asking,, as your OE oil pump may be fine,, they are ez to take apart and mic..the internal gaskets are available.
Stock slant timing chains can go a couple 100K,,

Basically I agree, stock replacement parts will be fine. I would shop locally as well as on online retailer like Rockauto / e bay for for price comparison. If you want to really have the best info for your truck, pick up a factory service manual. FSM's show up on e bay from time to time.

If the truck has a lean burn system,, the HEI is a nice upgrade,
with that you may want to do some distributor recurve tuning,

If you bump up the compression to at least 9 to 1 and run Doc's RV10 or something like my Delta regrind (254 degrees .435 lift) you would love the added torque.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Dad truck,
The truck is a 1970 D100 shortbed. The original motor has less than 100k but is pretty loose and needs a rebuild. I also have a 1978 motor that is supposed to be in better condition (per the previous owner) and looks better.

I am thinking of rebuilding the old bottom end with the newer head.

I originally planned to use the newer motor as is. But I have put a lot of time and $ into the truck and don't want to cheap out on the most important part.

Thanks for your input and I welcome more thoughts.

Craig.

Ted,

How much do you remove to get the 9:1 compression? Or can you tell the builder to do that?

Will the RV10 or Delta cam be just as reliable and run good?

How much are those cams and where do you get them?

I imagine it would have a little deeper idle sound. What else would be different?

Thanks, Craig

Craig,



You have to measure deck height (how far the piston is down in the hole) and measure the head with fluid, called ccing the head to find out how much it has been cut in the past. My head is at 52 cc's. I think the pistons were .060 down in the hole.....you have to go look at my torque build in the Engine build matrix. A good machinist can do it......but it is hard to find a good machinist.........that understands a SL6.



Very reliable, good torque at low rpms providing excellent mileage.



About $75 to $100 with shipping, maybe less....you can go look at the CAM section for Erson's number, Delta Cam's in Tacoma, WA and Oregon Cam's in Oregon. All three are good folks and will regrind your cam and send it back. See Doc's posts on the RV10. It is the best of the bunch since it is a reverse dual pattern cam. It has more lift on the exhaust where it is needed.



Off idle torque (punch) that will spin both wheels if you have a Sure-Grip, higher vacuum, better mileage.

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Aggressive Ted



http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger





74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Our engines are very reliable. The only thing that's ever left me stranded was a ballast resistor that went out, but it sounds like you won't have that issue (since you're planning to convert to HEI). And if you want a daily driver build, others will let you know when you're setup might start misbehaving for normal street use.

Also, right around 1980 slants got hydraulic lifters. I don't remember the exact cross-over year so you may want to check before planning your rebuild. If you do have a hydraulic head, it may be slightly less maintenance (never needs to be adjusted).

Finally, tacking onto Ted's comments about measurements. Take down all possible measurements (deck height, bore, stroke, head CC) and report back, you will have loads of advice on what will work well together. I'd also encourage you to refine your goal beyond "stock super six." The Super Six package was advertised at only 10HP and 10ft/lb above the standard setup. I bet you could do twice as good and maybe get better milage at the same time.

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'66 Dodge Dart

Ted,

Thanks for the input. I'll research the past posts about the cams.

Thanks, Craig

Josh,

So you think I should be a little more ambitious with increased performance. I have thought of that, and probably should without going too far.

My newest head does not have hydraulic lifters, it is one generation earlier. Would it be worth trying to find a newest generation head with the hydraulic lifters? I presume that they will fit??

There is one slant six in the local junkyard that is 80s era. Maybe I should check that one out. What do you think?

Thanks, Craig

When I read "stock rebuild" it conjures up images of grandma tossing me the keys to her grocery getter. That is not an appealing idea for me. I want something that is unique to my passions, something that delivers what I expect from an engine. Planning a rebuild is the one chance you have to get an engine designed for the way you like to drive so you might as well take the opportunity and provide as much input on what you want.

Simply put, I think you should get passionate about your rebuild. Tell us, at length, about your goals/expectations and whenever possible give us hard numbers (target toruqe/horsepower, 1/4 mile times, or mpg).

This engine is for a truck, right? Is this a truck because trucks look cool or because it does truck stuff (hauling a load of dirt, towing a boat/trailer, offroading)? The latter will likely benefit from a build with more torque.

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'66 Dodge Dart