What the easy way of changing the cam timing. I know the crank gear is really on there and it only has one key way in it.
Its a shame to have to open it up because it dosen't leak any oil right now.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

The cam is advanced and that would increase cranking compression a little bit but not 50 psi like we are talking.
I would leave tha cam timing alone.

My gut feel, you built to much static compression into this engine.
A few years ago, I built a stroker engine that made 230 psi, it was a 13.5 to 1 race engine.
I blew-up that race engine 2 times before taking compression out of it, by milling down the pistion tops.
DD

Well the torque sounds pretty good. Really nice looking build up! I have a pile of parts and our car just sitting there. I just need the time!

It would be really nice to know just what the compression ratio actually is, it would make figuring things out much easier on you.

Maybe try another timing light and see if the timing is really what you think it is. Some of them are off. I would try a normal NGK plug that is two ranges colder than stock for dyno runs or full throttle tuning.. It won't load up being run hard even if it is too cold and it will not lead to wrong conclusions about timing and jetting. You can work out the exact heat range for all around running later.

Dyno numbers can be all over the place and are best compared to themselves. Even then the same engine on the same dyno will vary day to day.

Has anyone an idea about the upper limit for the Offy intake? I have one that I will be running as well and the runners are really not very big. Without any real data, just looking at them it would not surprise me to find out that about 250 hp is all it will support, regardless of the carb. Maybe try a 1" open spacer and cut out the center of the intake with the present carb? It won't help the bottom end but may do something at the top.

It looks pretty good overall and you should have allot of fun with it. I would avoid any synthetic oil until it has about 5000 miles on it. Try to only beat on it in short bursts until it is broken in. It will likely loosen up some and make more power as the rings seat.

Retarding the cam builds top end power, advancing the cam builds low end power. You said you had a really flat torque curve, an advanced cam would explain that, and limit top end power. I am with Slantzilla. It is way to early to panic. You have timing, fuel, and exhaust to play with, and you will indeed get better here. No only that, but that 234hp is going to feel pretty potent after drving a stock slant. If your main intent is cruising, and street driving, this girl should be a lot of fun. Pick yourself up, and keep working on her.

By the way, the Youtube Mopars were alot of fun. Some of those cars I have actually seen race. I never thought to go there and browse.
Sam

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Doc
So what your saying is don't bother with touching the cam because I have bigger fish to fry like milling the pistons, or just leave it because its ok where it is?
Is it true that this will only move my torque and HP down in the RPM range a bit and not really be giving up any power?

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Retarding your cam will move the hp and torque peaks UP in the curve. Where is your engine going to live; at high rpms, or low rpms? If low RPM, leave it alone. If you intend to race it, look at your gear ratios, and see where the rpm will fall with each shift. Will it shift too far out of your torque curve if you leave the cam alone. It is hard to say how much it will change, but if you are putting a 355 or higher rear, and or intend to race it, retarding the cam would work better. It would probably be better to do this before you put the radiator in the car, don't you think? On the other hand, street driven slants tend to feel perkier with an advance of 4-5 degrees.

Actually, after re-reading this post, with a three speed tranny, you are more likely to fall out of your torque if you do retard the cam. Close ratio transmissions were designed for high rev engine, with a narrow band torque curve. What you have, with the cam slightly advanced, is probaly more appopriate for a three speed tranny. It also depends upon what RPM you expect to be crossing the finish line. If you max out your RPM before you cross the finish line, then you will know it would have helped to retard the cam some, since retarding the cam would have likely given you a few more RPM, and more grunt up there in the last 500 RPM. It is a tough call, and you can't have both. Neither is awful.


Sam

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I am in agreement that "your here now" so get the engine into the car and running to see how the combination works.

The main goal at this point is to not do anything that will distroy all your hard work. With this in mind, get some race gas and keep the timing retarded to be sure you don't get detonation, that is what kills a high compression engine. Make sure the A/F ratio is a little on the rich side. Stay on the "safe" side of the adjustments to start with, then tune your way into more power once you get thru the "infant mortality" stage and get the engine broken-in.

You can successfully run a high compression engine on the street but they take extra care, mainly better fuel and less timing.

Please double check those cranking compression readings and I will crunch your compression numbers once I get home tonight.
Knowing the actual cylinder pressure / static compression ratio will help with your fuel choice and the tuning work that lies ahead.
DD

Short of buying another new compression tester of a different brand, the 230psi is very likely correct.
I'd like to run 93 octane but if I can't then I'll have to buy a drum of racing fuel and mix it with the 93 octane to get by untill next winter.
At this point I am just trying to get a feel for what I've got and what I've got to deal with. The cars definitly not a daily driver. I drive it about 2000 miles a year if that.
Whats racing fuel cost these days?

Also was talking to the Howards Cam guy and he said that I probably have lost 30 HP with the cam being 5 degrees off. This seems to not be the theme here. Just curve movement.
Your thoughts one his statement please.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Wow that is a lot of static compression. Norms engine and Dales engine run that type of static compression. My race engine is cacalated to be a 11 to 1 compression and it has 200 psi static cold compression or hot. Been there done that. Can not tell my tune up or iginition advance this is secret for racing purpose . If It is at 230 you are going to have to run at least 93 gas. 110 VP or Sonoco is 5.50 a gallon here. But remember that is with no road tax on it. You will have to buy your gas in containers not just fill the car up with racing fuel. They are strict here on that. I think i pm you about avgas if not blast me a pm . Thanks Ron Parker





Jaggers Fabrication Slanted Attitude Dart

I think Doc is right about just getting it going, and being careful, but be open to the possibility of putting a cam with more overlap in there. That will bleed off some of the pressure you are now experiencing. I am sorry, I did not read your cam specs. If you have a monster cam in there now, then a bigger cam may not be an option. But if your cam is fairly mild, and has midlin overlap, then there is a cam choice that will help you out here. I think you can work this out.
Sam

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Borrow another compression gauge, run another cylinder pressure check.

Your numbers all work, the math does not lie. (I still can't get over the 3.591 bore size but that's my problem) I don't see how this combo can get 230 psi cranking, it's not "adding-up", my guess is that your dish measurement is off.

I looked at this 2 ways, first I used my "dream wheel".
3.591 x 4.250 does get 258+ CID and compression ratios for "final" chamber size as follows:
8 to 1 @ 100+cc
9 to 1 @ 88 cc
10 to 1 @ 78 cc
11 to 1 at 70.5 cc
12 to 1 at 64 cc

Then the calculator:
Sweep volume for a single cylinder = 705 cc
Final chamber size = 77 cc
705 + 77 / 77 = 10.1558 static C/R

Based on the numbers you gave us, I think you can get this engine to run on 91 pump gas. The dyno numbers seem to support a 9 to 1 engine.
DD

And besides, how can you go wrong with an engine named Eileen?
Bren, I do know how you feel right now. When I first got my new engine management system installed, it would not even run. I was crushed, and devestated by the fact that I had spent so much time and money on something that would not even work. After much tweeking, and many trials the car is now running better than I ever hoped. Some things were wrong, and needed to be changed, and there was one bad part in the batch, the fuel pressure regulator.

Be optimistic. Commit yourself to having fun, and don;t second guess yourself constantly. Just work on it until it IS what you were hoping for. This wonderful group of guys will support you, and offer you experience and advice that will eventually get you where you want to be. This is the start of a wonderful adventure that will keep getting better as you get it figured out.


Sam

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Mine runs sweet on 87 with 9.25:1 .... initial advance is about 9-10 ....the rest of the advance is almost stock from a Prestolite early A spring set .

I estimate just under 200hp limited by intake and exhaust (loosely based on comparisons with wifes 200hp similar weight car.)

Id put it in the car and get it drivable...THEN start makin bigger#s.

Your build is not that different from many others excepting the stroke and how far the pistons are in the hole....

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Gas City sells 100 octane Rockett brand race gas for $5.45 around here.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Rocket Brand. I would buy it just for the name alone.
Eilean is going to be a killer engine. The hard work is done. The fact that this much has been changed from stock and it started, ran and made decent power and did not go home in pieces is a feat within in itself. A little tuning and maybe a litle re-re-engineering and you will have a hell of a lot of fun. Just wait until the first time you go down the track... All of this will be forgotten.

AZ