Has anyone compiled and engine build sheet or list for one barrel combinations, two barrel combinations and four barrel combinations?
It seems many folks go about it through allot of trial and error. Many of us don't have the experience or the time to try every combination in our life times.
It would be nice to see a some good sedan mileage setups, truck setups for power and torque, nice street machines and full race.

How do you start out making small changes to a stock setup and what the evolution would be step by step to a fairly potent street machine. I think alot of our questions might be answered in a setup article or two. I know SlantSix Dan has got the ignition department nailed, the Super Six conversion seems to be next, then Doc's manifolds, but what's next??????? and what are the horsepower gains with each step?

Thanks for your thoughts.......
I really like this forum and have learned allot so far!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

We can use this message thread to compile lists of SL6 engine build-ups.
I know that A. Ted has posted his combo in some other threads so you may want to kick things off by reposting your "torquer" engine combo here.
Let's try to keep the engine build-ups in the form of Lists
Example:

Long Connecting Rod 225 (.065 oversize)
5 freeze plug engine block (1970) lightened and acid cleaned
All oil passages reamed oversized & deburred
Forged crank with large "hub" (re-balanced)
198 con rods, reconditioned with ARP bolts
Head & block skim cut machined to make flat
Silvolite 2.2 pistons with 16 cc dish (H1291)
-.020 deck, static compression of 9.8 to 1
Pocket ported 1968 cylinder head, polished chambers
Stock size valves, back-cut w/ 3 angle seat grind
Double roller timing gears and chain
Ported oil pump with hardened drive gear.
Special dual pattern camshaft (custom specs)
Hyper-Pak intake with 600 cfm Holley
Dual Dutra Dual exhaust manifolds

_________________
Aggressive Ted



http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger





74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

_________________
Aggressive Ted



http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger





74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Agressive Ted mentioned what vehicle this combo is being using in. Also helpful would be what kind of real world numbers did you achieve with a particular combo in a particular platform - for mileage for daily drivers, quarter mile times for racers, etc.

I notice that all the builds suggest rebalancing the crank, with doug's long rod combo that might be nessary but with stock isn`t that over kill. I mention it because here on the rock, there is no machine shop that can balance a crank, the only choice is to ship it to the mainland

First Slant Build
1. (68') 225 block with .04 over bore, stock rods, overbore pistons, and .01 undersize crank with Fel-pro gasket set.
2. 270 duration cam with .44 lift, stock rockers and 340 springs.
3. 1.7/1.4 oversized valves.
4. Polished bowls and port matched gasket.
5. Hardened seats, 3 angle valve grind, bronze guides, and .1 shave off the head.
6. stock exhaust manifold with 2.25 finishing tube.
7. One barrel manifold adapted to accpet 350 TBI system with 15 psi of fuel. The injectors flow 55lbs/hr. Megasquirt stand alone computer.
8. HEI ingintion with stock distrubutor.
Great build, would've skipped the oversized valves and gone with headers instead.

At a minimum, you should weigh all the pistons, piston pins and connecting rods and make all their weights equal. You can do this with an inexpensive "pocket scale"
If you don't have the time, money or a facility to do dynamic crankshaft balancing, you just have to go with what the factory did.
DD

Balancing and blueprinting have some huge benefits of relatively easier work. A couple of grams can turn into kilos when in a dynamic state. Like Doug said you can get a good scientific scale for the pistons, there's con rod scale plans on the internet that encompass this scientific scale. The dynamic balancing of the crank is left to the pros but still money well spent. With this I hope to put the next slant into the 400s with a well balanced bottom end, not only for high rpms but less of the pistons fighting each other.
Are there any more mods done to the bottom end? I think the three builds we listed are kind of the norm. Any hot rod tricks were missing?

http://tinyurl.com/23h8qj
Days of reading.

The quick run down.

Huge overbore 3.592
Stroked 4.250
Valves are 1.86/1.5 - 11/32 stem
240 dur@50 .518 lift cam
570 Street Advenger 4 barrel vac secondary.
CR somewhere between 5:1 and 14:1 (9.25:1)

Warning - Not for the budget minded.

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

The Valaints current build:

Stock Connecting Rod 225 (.040 oversize)
5 freeze plug engine block (1976 1 ton truck)
Forged crank with large "hub" (76 1 ton truck))
Stock style cast pistons 40 over
-.116 deck, static compression of 8.6 to 1
1969 cylinder head Pocket ported/ bowl hogged/radiussed chambers 60cc
Chev valves 1.72/1.50 w/ 3 angle seat grind 11/32 stem
Hughes Double roller timing gears and chain
Comp 264
Die cast Super 6 manifold with 66 318 BBD
stock exhaust manifold....2.25 all the way with turbo muffler

currently under revision

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Sandy,
How did you get the -.116 deck heigth on your engine? Block milling, special pistons or ??

I may as well link the Twiggy engine build-up to this thread although not many are building the aluminum block engine.

Also the Twins message thread has some good info.
DD

I got the deck height by having the block milled.....unfortunately they 2nd guessed me and I got less than I wanted.
I need to decide if I just mill the head .100 or go to the trouble to get the block done again....new cam bearings etc etc.

I swept the chambers on the head around the bigger valves (60cc) ala a Jeffries head and wanted to keep that effect by milling the block instead of the head.....I need another .1oo off somewhere......

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Hpak Duster build originally started as a super six only build...

1976 Forged crank Block, .090 taken off the deck
Forged crank journals polished all journals were in the 'goal posts' for the specs
.020 Overbore, stocker pistons with moly rings
Stock 1976 BL plug head '600' part number, so no smog pump port in the back like the 447 head, planed .010 off head, stock valves, stock springs, new seats, street ported (nothing fancy, just smooothing out the bumps and casting drips)
Target compression reached 9.22:1
Comp Cam 252, degreed and advanced 4 degrees...
Dynagear double roller chain, using a cam button per doc's instructions
(pushes a 3500 duster with driver, A-833OD and 3.55 rear gear, improved with Clifford Hyperpack intake and have used a Holley 8007 for daily driving, with use of a Holley 80457 600 cfm carb with annular boosters for 'more fun').
Recurved Mopar EI distributor allows 18 deg advance all out at 2300 rpm, vacc. pod give 20 deg for highway use, initial set at 10 BTDC for crappy regular gas, and 14 BTDC for perfomance...coupled to a 12 year old MP 'orange' box...
Uses Dutra Duals (modified manifold rear with Doc's front casting), dual 2" to rear with turbo mufflers and 2" out past bumper...(this makes for a mellow Jag style rumble at 'idle', a nice growl at 2000 rpm, a raspy growl at 23-2500, then it's a fleet of kawasaki's at 25-6200....)

Build can get 13 in city and 21 on highway with the small Holley, much less with the 600 cfm guzzler... midrange torque allows for aggressive passes against fartboys on the highway... (build allows duster to achieve 127 mph @ 4000 rpm in OD with enough power to still get to 5k if you have enough road...Redline power launches at 6200 rpm have been achieved).

-D.Idiot

Beater Valiant build...

Current experiment with 3400 lb Valiant(driver, tools, spare parts, etc...)
A-230 manual 3 spd with 2.94 rear.

1979 Dodge Aspen Cast Crank Block and matching crank
Crank determined to be 6 lbs lighter than a 1974 forged crank...
Standard Pistons with moly rings, .060 overbore
Compression target missed the 9:1 mark, a bit and is 8.9:1
1974 drool tube head with new stock valves and springs
Street ported and .040 off head
Felpro gasket set (including head gasket)
Comp Cam custom grind CCX256
256/256 110LSA .467 lift (so .450 lift after lash to fit stock valve flow characteristics, with short overlap for a flatter torque curve and better street manners), degreed and left at centerline...
Doc's cam button to prevent cam walk that may occur with Comp Cams
Aussie Roller Chain
Single 2.25" exhaust with turbo muffler

Vehicle idles smooth at 800 rpm after warm up, got OK gas mileage with 1 barrel Holley (but was undercarbed), likes the Carter BBD better and the engine seems to rev up a bit quicker than the Hpak motor. Have set redline at 4k for now... Have an offy intake for this, but will be exploring the use of a Holley 80120 staged 350cfm 2 barrel (power and mileage compromise with better tunability)

-D.Idiot