It ended up in the layshaft tunnel( they reverse these engines by changing cam timing via the layshafts...a kind of intermediate cam)

We had the head off the cyl we were working on (single 4 valve head per cyl) and my wrench went down a pushrod tube and binked off into a section of the tunnel that drained oil back to the sump.

We (I) had to remove the pushrods (2 for this engine,,,they use a complex rocker system) , the fuel pump (1 per cyl) and a bunch of this and that (fuel lines and oil lines for the turbo....all large) ....and I spent hours fishing with a stick magnet. I would have spent years in hell if I didnt get it out. Once it was out it had to be identified as the wrench I lost and everything put back together. You have limited time in refit so I was doing my regular work as well.....

I spent 2 full days on my back in the empty sump of said engine 2 years later. We were checking crank and rod clearances and rather than scramble in and out of the man doors endlessly they got the skinny , wrench dropping guy (me) to lie in the bottom while they rolled it over with the electric turning gear......very slowly.....mebbe 2 rph I am no longer claustrophobic in most situations.

I loved marine engineering....and often think about going to sea again...it never gets out of your system.

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I got 10 mins yesterday in the middle of an 11 hour work day to work on the Valaint....Im an hour away from fireup. Today looks unlikely ....full workday to get ready for tomorrows out of province 3 day delivery trip....my sewing lady called last night to say her 23 yearold son has cancer....

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Sand Pebbles, anyone?

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

This is going to be close...
We have the engine in the car and we are hooking up parts like mad.
How come the exhaust pipes do not fit this un-milled block and head combo? (answer: because everything is a 1/4 inch higher!)
Cut, weld, cut, weld... now it fits

If I leave work early, we will fire it up today... before the sun goes down.
DD

Doug, how about a live webcam feed for the voyeurs among our ranks?

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

We will need to do something to document the 'start-up'.

On the earlier question about carbon build-up on valves... it is not a big issue for us, seeing how hard we run the engines.

On SL6 core engines we break-down, I do see some heads with a lot of deposits on the valves. The 2 types I see are carbon deposits on the face of the exhaust valve and hard-black "coked" oil deposits on the back of the intake valves.

The carbon on the exhaust valves is caused by fuel additives and many miles of use. The coked oil on the back of intake valves is the result of worn valve guides & valve guide seals.

I do sand smooth both valve face surfaces on performance head build-ups and many of the o/s valves already come with a "swirl polished" surface but I do not feel that the smooth surface alone will eliminate the build-up of deposits.
I also feel that an occasional "rev-up" to the engine's redline knocks a lot of these deposits off the surfaces and sends the stuff out the tailpipe.
DD
Photo Link

I fired up the Guzzi motor today at noon,then lost spark,Summits msd directions are bad,or they switched the black wires on me,ran 10 seconds,mark

Mine ran for half an hour....at 6 pm. I guess I owe Mark a six pack of Full Sail. I beat sundown by 30 mins.

Want to rewager on the first burnout? Im not back for oilburta till Sat night ....(if I put the valve cover on and snuck up to the highway with the dome light blazing.....)


If a car does a burnout...and its dark so nobody can see...is there still plenty of smoke?

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Big Brother is watching....

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

Doc
Looks like some interesting oil tricks going on there. Whats the line out of the back of the oil filter area. Also that doesnt look like a stock fuel pump?
Thanks
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

NO WAY,will take my bud light and run,I still have to have drive shaft built,shift linkege,SEAT BASE,and more wireing,also need complete exhaust,figure I am at least anouther hour away from a burn out,forgot throttle cable,brakes to bleed,trans lines,timeing,adjusting carb,choke cable,fill and run rear end,align front end.How do I by- pass kick down linkege?mark

Well paint a big "L" on my forehead for "LOOSER"... on this beer bet.
I fired-up my motor at 6:48 PM this evening... so beer is on me, boys!

Hey wait... how do I know that you 2 really got your motors to start???
Did you take any photos, or an MP3 video?

Oh, I have a good excuse, I shot some photos!
So here we are on our Summer vaca.... oops, wrong photos...

I start by putting plain water into the cooling system. If I have a leak, it's just water.



Then pour-in the oil. I pour it all over the rocker arms, right before I crank the engine over for the first time.



I am lucky that we have a Accusump oil accumulator in the race car, with 40 PSI waiting for "the call". Flip the lever and the oil pressure gauge moved-up to 5 PSI.



The "booster" electric fuel pump also comes-in handy, hit the switch and we now have fuel to the carb.
Pump the gas and start cranking, no pops on the first try.
Jump-out and advance the distributor (timing), crank again and the engine starts. Oil and fuel pressure come-up after what seems like forever.




60 PSI of cold oil pressure and 4 PSI of fuel... but the fuel pressure reading is mis-leading, the electronic gauge reading in the car is from a gauge sender in the N2O fuel system regulator, the mechanical fuel gauge at the carb shows 7 PSI.

More important, the engine is running on all cylinders, i bring the RPMs down to 1400 and take a quick look under the car, no big leaks. Let off the gas and the engine keeps running at 1200 RPMs, I get-out and look for leaks and find a fuel leak. Shut down and tighten a hard lin fitting that was loose.
Restarts fine, check all the pushrods to be sure they are all spinning, they are. THIS IS IMPORTANT! Once you have your new engine running and "stabilized" at a fast idle, check to see if the pushrods are spinning.
Silly me, i usually paint a mark on the push rods so i can see the spin but I was in a hurry... I had to use my finger to "see" the rotation of each pushrod.



We are getting lots of oil out the backside of the rockerarms and down the pushrods, that is good.

Watching the water temp at this point, we have been running at 1200 RPMs for 2 or 3 minutes now, temp is at 160 degrees and climbing so I click-on the electric fan and start checking valve lash, while the engine is still running.
Find 2 tight exhaust valves so we shut down to adjust. Do the adjust and let cool a little more. Re-check the head gasket torque, one nut is at 65 ft lbs, the other are all at 75. they all get tightened to 80 ft lbs, from the center, out.



Restart the engine again and recheck valve lash, I think we can go tighter on the intakes, some are at .014 and others are at .012... the engine temp is now at 180 and the "fingerprints" are burning of the exhaust manifolds.
The sun has gone down and it's time to eat dinner, time to shut down and do more tomorrow.
Well, this engine is running and it has a nice sound to it.... oh, all this start-up work was done with OPEN EXHAUST!

Doesn t sound loser to me Doug.....it runs. I could hear it fom here....sounded like a couple of miles down the lake.....

It makes a nice story that all three ran within such a small window.

I wish I wasnt off to the Frozen Tundra for three days....I would love to be spending the weekend getting the thing ready for the long haul. I missed taking it on this trip by about 24 hours. Next week.

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Doug
A few more questions. Is that one of your Dutra Hpak Manifolds? There are 2 AN connectors at the base of each Manifold is this part of a/the NOS system? Why 2 connectors? Also will the clear plastic fuel filter TECH out there? I have heard some discussion that it had to be a metal one???
Thanks
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Yes, you spotted a lot of the special 'race' items on this engine.

The big black hose off the oil pump connects to the Accusump oil accumulator.

The machanical fuel pump is a Carter HV pump from a BB Mopar, with the SL6 arm swapped-in. Fuel Pump Photo

Yes, that is a "Dutra" Hyper-Pak intake manifold, one of 40 that I manufactured prior to selling the project to Jack Clifford. The manifold has a divided plenum casted into it.

All the other special fittings and hoses are for a Fogger N2O system.