Do not do this mod if you are using your car for any type of real drag racing, most race tracks will fail you at tech inspection. Otherwise it is a good idea.

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Tell me, what's wrong with just using a heat wrap around the metal line to keep the heat down (beside looking ugly)?

Doesn't work nearly as well. Also, yeah, looks ugly.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

One of the best modifications I've done. The fuel line has survived almost 5 years of daily service and is still in good condition. So, one other thing you might want to do is replace all your soft fuel lines from the fuel tank to pump with the fuel injection hose. No more cracked rubber fuel lines.

I did the same mod about 9 years ago, and it held up just fine until I parked it so the longevity is there. I went into a holley 390 so the adapters are different though.

For the record. I run my fuel line in the stock location. I have never had any problems starting my car, nor have I had any problems with the fuel boiling in the fuel line.

Of course, your mileage my vary...

I did this mod the last time I worked on my truck, but for a different reason. I had crimped the metal line while trying to take it off the carb. I figured this was an easy enough solution. Thing is, the old line already went over the valve cover into a fuel filter, just behind the alternator. Was this perhaps factory position on truck and later models?

Dan's fuel line mod idea is great even when you have a rather non-traditional fuel system. I took his advice into consideration when routing lines for my multi-point EFI. The fuel line goes up straight across the valve cover to the inlet, and the return line is still a ways away from the manifold. My blog has an entry with a picture where you can see the over-the-valve-cover routing. My installation also uses AN braided hose to cover dragstrip safety concerns.

You can see the fuel rail and some of its plumbing here, too.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Just a parts # update.

At Advance Auto Parts, the 5/16" IV-flare-to-5/16"-hose-barb brass fitting is available in the Help section :

Brand: Motormite "Brass-Tite!"
Part#: 43076
Desc: 5/16" IF to 5/16" Hose Fuel LIne Fitting

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65 Dart GT Convertible
http://www.displacedkiwi.com (click on /other then the dart icon, then whatever you want!)

What problem does the drag strip's tech department have with this fuel line mod?

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67Cuda,FAST EZEFI,340cu,CR=10.25,RollerCam&Rocker (XR268HR,#20-810-9)(#1622-16)(EddyRPM#60779,#7576), (MSD6AL,#6425) A904, GearVendorsOD, 8 1/4,3.55:1, ClassicAir

Strips do allow more than 8" of rubber fuel line, total, tank to carb.....
In sportman class, the techs will let you get way with a little more, but not
much. Most will frown on any between the pump and carb
unless just joining steel tubes.

Metal lines or braided lines are what they like to see......

This has to do with FIRE and broken lines from objects hitting them.....
they also frown on the plastic fuel filters and glass ones too, for the
same......

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http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Belveder A318 727 4d
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4spOD
Old iron or no iron

I think the biggest advantage that it has going for it isn't the placement, but rather the material. Rubber insulates from the heat, where the steel will conduct the heat right in.

Theoretically, if one were to run a rubber line in the stock placement, it might yield better results, but I'll pass on having the fan blades that close to my rubber hose, thank you.

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

I've been runing rubber hose over the steel line in hot spots. I split a piece of fuel hose and apply it to the steel line, then slip a piece of radiator hose over the whole deal for more insulation and to hold it all together.

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

I have insulated the stock line with a fiberglass/silicone sleeve. It works ok but I am planning on the re-routing outlined by Dan with small changes for my setup. I suspect the shorter line helps aside from the change to rubber. Less area to exchange heat and less fuel vapor to deal with when it does get too hot. You could take it farther with some aluminized sleeving on the section in the "hot zone", over the valve cover to the carb. A return line to the tank with a small orifice at the carb inlet would really solve any issues with vapor lock. The carb boiling is another thing that can cause the same problems.

Looks like I'll do this, since when I was removing my carb for a rebuild I bent the fuel line connecting to the carb.

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Ronnie
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2714941