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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 2:19 pm 
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Dart270 wrote:
For example, many people here complain about poor HP due to head design


Are you sure that's what people complain about? I think it's more along the lines of fuel economy and drivability, both of which (together with exhaust toxicity) would improve dramatically with a better combustion chamber.

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I think you want to be on the edge of pinging, but not actually pinging.


I have a much easier time agreeing with this.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 4:26 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

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SlantSixDan wrote:
]A scattered few places, but it's not a commodity item.

The stuff must be bloody sensational then, because anything good is hard to buy off the shelf.
One time I was fortunate to come across a new product which removed rust perfectly. It was non-toxic, non-acid, no fumes etc. worked beautifully, I go back for some more..."Oh we don't sell it anymore" It figures I thought.
That must be why you can buy WD-40 and ArmourAll by the crate at the corner convinence store :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 7:42 pm 
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Does anyone know if a slant will drain completely when the drain plug is removed? Also, the original radiator capacity was listed at 14 quarts. I have installed a 22" cross flow radiator. Do you think 4 gallons will be enough of the Evans NPG? I hope I don't need to buy an extra quart just to get half quart more. So be it if I need to.

Sam

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 8:02 pm 
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The block will drain "mostly" when you open the block petcock. If you have the luxury of some time, flush some ordinary water through to try to move the regular coolant out, then use air to blow the heater core out. If you can lf you can leave the system open awhile and figure out a way to blow warm air through it (H'mmm...hairdryer at the other end of the big hose connected to the water pump...?), or even just let it sit open to the air after the water flush and air blowout, so much the better. You needn't get totally fanatical about it, but the more conventional water-coolant you remove, the better.

What're your plans for the thermostat? I am really liking the fuel economy and driveability improvement with my new 205° stat in my truck...but there's no turbo on my truck.

As for capacity...Good question. You may want to combine a water-flush operation with a water-measure operation to get a good handle on capacity. You are running a coolant reserve system, yes?

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 8:13 pm 
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Mine takes 2.25 gallons bone dry. If I just remove the lower hose to drain it, it takes 2 gallons to refill it. There is a catch. Mine is Hard Blocked up to the freeze plugs. 8)
http://tinyurl.com/3f6fv6

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 8:14 pm 
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Supercharged

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I have a coolant recovery system, yes. It seems to work fine. I never lose a drop of coolant. When I open it, it is always full to the top. I am using a 195 thermostat now. It seems to run better a little cooler, but everybody says hotter is fundamentally better. The wear factor is reduced, and the fuel vaporizes better. One of the problems with the EFI is that the AF ratio changes alot when the engine goes from 195 to 205. It starts to lean out. So I must use the warm up coefficient to richen up the mixture a bit. I would get better control of this if there were more break points in the enrichment curve there. I would like to see one at 195-198-202, and 205, instead of the 195, and 205 that are present.
Thanks for the help here with this. I really, really appreciate the tip.

Sam

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 8:31 pm 
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Sam Powell wrote:
I have a coolant recovery system, yes. It seems to work fine. I never lose a drop of coolant.


Excellent. The Evans coolant is very costly, so making sure to start with a leak-free system is important. Running a 4-lb cap takes a whole lot of strain off every junction and joint (and hose, and seal) in the system, so that helps, too.

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everybody says hotter is fundamentally better. The wear factor is reduced, and the fuel vaporizes better.


Yup.

Quote:
One of the problems with the EFI is that the AF ratio changes alot when the engine goes from 195 to 205. It starts to lean out. So I must use the warm up coefficient to richen up the mixture a bit. I would get better control of this if there were more break points in the enrichment curve there. I would like to see one at 195-198-202, and 205, instead of the 195, and 205 that are present.


Whoah...that is a pretty big gap to have to straddle in one leap. I take it this is an inbuilt limitation with the Accel ECU?

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 6:09 am 
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Supercharged

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It supposedly interpolates betweent he two, so it does change gradually between the two. But I would still like to be able to specifiy a curve.

Sam

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 7:44 am 
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SlantSixDan wrote:
Dart270 wrote:
For example, many people here complain about poor HP due to head design


Are you sure that's what people complain about? I think it's more along the lines of fuel economy and drivability, both of which (together with exhaust toxicity) would improve dramatically with a better combustion chamber.


Dan, you are probably correct that more people complain about mileage and drivability on this site, but plenty of people (maybe more off this site - racers) complain about HP potential. Very few people bother to get some good headwork done.

Lou

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 10:28 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

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This is sort of back to the reverse cooling for improvement idea.

Something to keep in mind about pre-ignition and detonation that are running temp related is that it is not likely happening in all cylinders at the same time. Unless there is some dramatic problem with distribution, or the compression ratios of all cylinders are off quite a bit, it is likely starting in the hot end of the engine, which is usually the back. It only takes one cylinder to hold you back.

I think it would be worth trying to get some temp readings along the head, and maybe think about some "easier" changes like enlarging some head gasket holes to affect coolant flow. Or maybe some external bypass lines. Of course just lowering the temp overall does work with a turbo engine with some trade offs.

That coolant running at low pressure really does sound like a nice upgrade, easy too. Did I miss the price? What is the expected life of the coolant?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 10:38 am 
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The stuff runs about $30/gallon and has a lifespan of essentially forever (100k miles). No water, therefore no corrosion. Now that I know it works effectively as a coolant, I will be switching my aluminum-block '62 at my first opportunity.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 11:08 am 
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Yep, I'd like to try that stuff out too!

Lou

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 12:34 pm 
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Supercharged

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It is now 32/gallon plus shipping. This is why I asked what the capacity of the system was.

Sam

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