I just got off the phone with Hussey. The price of their gaskets vary depending on the thickness. A .042 thick gasket would be $60.49 (SCE is $99.95). There is a one time "engineering" charge of $39. The will give us an additional discount on an order of over $500. The order can mix thickness, and bore size. I will try to get a sample out to them today or tomorrow. If anyone is interested, think about what sizes you would want.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Are copper gaskets good with nitrous? It will be a 100 hp shot and the block will not be o-ringed. Or would the stock steel shim gasket work just as well? There is a place around here that i im pretty sure still has NOS steel gaskets, so i wouldnt have to use my old one.

side note - why are they called steel "shim" because mine dosnt seem to be shimmed or anything?

The whole gasket is a shim.

PS Charrlie why dont we talk about the pros and cons of a copper gasket/o ringing the block and then do a group buy.
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

That is what I am trying to set up. Lets start another thread.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

If you are going to get in on the Copper Gasket Group Buy and you are also thinking of O-Ringing the block or head consider wire gauge, groove size and gasket thickness. This info came from another discussion group;

The most conventional method is to machine and o-ring the block, then machine receiver grooves opposite the o-rings in the heads. I guess it can probably be done in reverse fashion as well.
As far as the receiver grooves are concerned, it not only helps in high compression and or boosted applications, but helps wet motors from losing fluid which is a common problem with copper head gaskets. It allows the o-ring to literally push the gasket into the receiver groove to provide a better seal. Speaking of copper gaskets here is a bit of info from SCE regarding this stuff;
O-ring grooves may be cut in either the block or cylinder head. When using copper head gaskets thinner than .050, O-ring height should be no more than 25% of gasket thickness. For instance, the proper dimensions for an .043 thick gasket using .041 wire would be; a .038 to .040 groove width (provides a .001 interference fit), and a .032 groove depth (leaves .008-.010 of the wire protruding above the deck). This machining can be done at most high performance machine shops

When receiver grooves are necessary, alignment of O-ring and receiver groove is critical, as is the depth and width of the receiver groove. Generally receiver groove depth should be 75% of the O-ring protrusion and the receiver groove should be 1.5 times the wire width. Example: If the O-ring is .041 wide and .015 above the deck; receiver groove should be .012 deep and .060 wide.

While the machining of O-ring and receiver grooves must be done by a machinist, the installation of the O-ring wire can be done by anyone, using common hand tools. When tapping O-ring wire into the groove, use care to avoid denting the wire. SCE provides an O-ring installation kit, (SCE PART #31542) which includes instructions, an installation tool and O-ring wire. When cutting stainless O-ring wire, file the ends square to provide the tightest possible seal.

Jim

"O"-rings should be used with the copper gasket. Reciever grooves make for a better installation, but are not absolutley necessary. I am running a .042 thick copper gasket, with the block "O"-ringed. I do not have reciever grooves in the head, and did not leak water. But that is a crap shoot.
Disclaimer: I only have one engine set up that way, and it is my only first hand experiance, with copper gaskets.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

My first choice in head gaskets would be MLS, but since no one is making them for our engines I'm going to try copper and hope the water stays in. Years ago someone running a copper head gasket did a write-up for the Slant 6 News. What this fellow did was punch the water passages oversize so he could fit individual rubber o-rings at each hole. I don't remember if he wire o-ringed the cylinders or not.

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Joshua

Doesn't sound like a long lasting application for a boosted street motor.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

for what it is worth a fellow racer here has a 608 bb dodge and ran sce gasket with built- in o-ring and no grooves in the block. he found that they leaked but after he sprayed them with sealer/adhesive he had no problems . now this is a street avenger 8 sec race car with 500hp shot of n20.

Mine is fine. I used a product called hylomar to seal the water and oil. No leaks.

Yup, that is what I used.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Anybody have pictures of an o-ringed block?

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<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3173/2992308402_5481afb26e_t.jpg">

[url]<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/18510442@N02/2305384979/" title="Oring by dts223, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3064/2305384979_4380457629_o.jpg" width="400" height="300" alt="Oring" /></a>[/url]