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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 10:51 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
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Location: SW Washington
Car Model*: 1954 Dodge C1-B8
Huh. I really wonder how a '68 and newer 225 is so much more "open" than any other normally aspirated engine with a PCV valve and a crankcase breather that vents into the air cleaner?

EFI is of huge benefit in the elimination fuel wash down of cylinders and reducing contamination of the engine oil. Mis-adjusted chokes, bad choke pull-offs and anything else that dumps excess fuel will wash the lubrication form the cylinder walls and wear out the rings and cylinders. Cold running is also a serious problem.

I have a 2001 Dakota with over 200k miles on the clock and it has much less ring and cylinder wear than my 45k mile '67 Valiant. The Dakota spent many hours on the highway without being shut off and has EFI. The Valiant appears to have been used on short trips and had a defective carburetor (power valve circuit always open). The Dakota has also lived it's entire life on modern engine oils.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 2:14 pm 
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Location: Black Diamond, WA
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Joshie225,

Good points! on keeping the choke adjusted and the temps up. The 0-30W Mobil 1 and Wix 1806 make a good combination for my rebuild. I posted a shot of the plugs after 35,000 miles on the red my space link below.

I am still running the stock choke but have the spring adjusted pretty light so the new pull off works pretty quick so as to keep wash down to a minimum. I keep a 195 degree Super Stat in it so it stays pretty toasty. The electric fan kicks on at 210 degrees.

My oil stays clean for a long time, at least to about 1500 miles. Running a little water injection seems to keep the contaminents down and flushed out. The end of the exhaust pipe looks like the plugs, a light amber color. No sooty build up like I used to see before the rebuild.

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 Post subject: Oil choice for the slant
PostPosted: Sat Apr 29, 2017 8:10 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2017 7:53 pm
Posts: 67
Location: PA
Car Model*:
Recently I spoke to a 70 year old guy , who liked my truck and when he heard it had a slant , he smiled & said the way to use that motor , envision your hand being slammed in a door . That's how to use that motor .
My father's slant 6 van had no care & ran well .
The slant's base personality is very forgiving to motor abuse
That being said , I want the best oil for the slant .
I'm not settled yet since my truck was sitting for 2 years I used a low cost 10w40 wall mart for now I put STP in reluctantly for the ZDDP
So now i'm trying to decide the best balance of ZDDP and proper oil
Proper weight oil is important . To those who live generally in warm climates
it's an easy choice A Rottela wont be a problem . Winter here in the north
can go 15 below & Zero is normal . I like synthetic due to the cold
flow-ability along with detergency .
here is a link on Mobil one ZDDP

https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pv ... -guide.pdf

The word from Mobil is there is enough zinc dialkyldithiophosphate
in the 5 w And Up Weights

Mobil 1 10W-40 High Mileage Full Synthetic has has nice levels of
zinc dialkyldithiophosphate

So for me , the consensus will be Mobil one , if I want to go nuts I can add some Lucas Zinc break in oil also

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 29, 2017 9:10 am 
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Mr.6 wrote:
if I want to go nuts I can add some Lucas


Yup, that would be nuts.

It's a mistake to think that if some ZDDP is good, more must be better and a lot more must be a lot better.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 29, 2017 9:14 am 
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Location: Burton BC canada
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Your slant will run fine with any modern oil without additives.

I would use 10w30 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter with a good filter. ....or a good 5w30 all year long if you have no leaks.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 29, 2017 10:25 am 
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Aggressive Ted wrote:
I am concerned about the lower levels of zinc


In the vehicle lighting technical standards and specification world, we have our list of myths and half-understood bits of information that we roll our eyes about people swearing it's gospel truth right out of the Bible.

The oil people have the same tribulation: the general public reads a well-intentioned but out-of-date, incomplete, and oversimplified article, think they've understood that they have to use a high-ZDDP oil in their old car, and then go shouting it all over the internet, whereupon someone else goes "Hey, yeah, I read the same thing!" and the myth gets amplified.

The evolution of engine oil antiwear chemistry did not start or end with Zinc, Phosphorus, or ZDDP. Don't worry about it unless worrying makes you happy, in which case…worry! :lol:


sandy in BC wrote:
Your slant will run fine with any modern oil without additives.


+1

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 29, 2017 6:47 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2017 7:53 pm
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Location: PA
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If your saying no need to worry of the ZDDP I'd just as soon use a wall-mart 10W30 or 40 in summer & 5 w 30 in winter and an oil change each 3 months as the owners manual says The lower cost wall-mart & filter will allow that with little guilt .
BUT
In the long run I tend to give in and use synthetics , those I change every 6 months . I'm convinced there better with the northern cold and long winters of north east PA . These days 5 qt's Mobil one is $25 at wall-mart
other brands even down to $20 .
The main commonsense of a synthetic is it flows well in the cold & it's said most wear occurs at start up . Synthetic resist fuel dilution also & that is some thing carburetor motors have a bit of compared to modern computer
adjusted motors . Heck Mobil One 10W30 has ZDDP also

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 29, 2017 10:00 pm 
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Don't worry about ZDDP. Do worry about oil and (especially) filter quality.

Quote:
Synthetic resist fuel dilution


That is not correct. The oil doesn't have a say in how much fuel gets into the crankcase.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 29, 2017 10:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2017 7:53 pm
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True :What will seep to crank case is consistent
But how Conventional and synthetic react is different
Conventional oil mixes , like all for one and one for all
reducing VI ( viscosity Index )
Full synthetic oil has better VI, and protects better against wear once it has been diluted by fuel.

http://www.lubricants.total.com/news/fu ... fects.html

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 Post subject: Ummm..
PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2017 12:17 am 
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Quote:
True :What will seep to crank case is consistent


Depending upon wear (or worse, the fuel pump diaphragm ruptures....once it's in the oil engine wear increases.... or on the other side, if the rings are worn, oil in the chamber can increase knock...

Quote:
But how Conventional and synthetic react is different


Correct... oddly I was able to pass a DEQ emissions tailpipe test in my state by switching from conventional 10W30 to synthetic... because of it's combustion properties...but...it leaked faster through the seals and past the compromised piston rings than conventional oil... (switching from Mobil conventional 10W30 to synthetic Mobil 1 on a 5.2L magnum engine)....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2017 4:56 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2017 7:53 pm
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Location: PA
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The good and bad what you experienced , I'd like to know if you also used same weight 10w30 in Syn. as you did say the conventional was 10w30
Mobil one comes in so many weights .
I'm curious how the Mobil one 10 W 40 performs

The Battle between conventional and Syn. is a long one
but for me the question seems answered in the winter during sub zero I get in turn the key & start that cold motor . The motor is ready
but I still have let the rest of car warm up a bit .

Still good old Dino oil , particular for the do it yourself oil changer , a 5 qt jug is $11 low cost filter $3 fresh oil ever 3 month for about $60 per year, compared to two per year with Syn. or one change per year with the Annual Mobil one .

Like the old saying - If it ain't broke don't fix it - So even I'm torn to this day, I've had many oldish trucks & cars on the cheap & some times
I resist the temptation and just use conventional . It's generally a final decision once I go Syn. I stay the course .

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 5:37 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 12:57 am
Posts: 1372
Location: Grass Valley, Ca.
Car Model*: '63 Dodge Dart GT Convertible
Pierre wrote:
The 1806 has a built in standpipe to keep oil in the filter. It's an alternative to the pumps that didn't have one. Also doesn't have the check valve in it like the mopar pipes did to help with flow.


I just checked with my Wix dealer after reading this and found that the 51515 has the anti-drainback valve, as does the 51806. The 51806 application list says "farm vehicles". The other differences were so minor that I can't even figure out why they bothered to make a different filter. I couldn't find out anything about a standpipe. There is a slight difference in the relief valve pressure, but not much. We couldn't figure out what would be different for a farm vehicle. The 51806 was three times the price! What am I missing?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 7:22 pm 
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51806 has a built-in standpipe to keep the filter full of oil in base-down applications (such as ours). You can read about it if you dig deep enough in the literature, or you can see it with your eyes if you look into the filter's central hole. Other than that, 51806 and 51515 are practically the same.

The ultra-super-premium filter from a filtration and longevity standpoint is a synthetic-media item such as Wix 51515XP or Fleetgard LF3487, but it has no standpipe.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 8:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 12:57 am
Posts: 1372
Location: Grass Valley, Ca.
Car Model*: '63 Dodge Dart GT Convertible
SlantSixDan wrote:
51806 has a built-in standpipe to keep the filter full of oil in base-down applications (such as ours). You can read about it if you dig deep enough in the literature, or you can see it with your eyes if you look into the filter's central hole. Other than that, 51806 and 51515 are practically the same.

The ultra-super-premium filter from a filtration and longevity standpoint is a synthetic-media item such as Wix 51515XP or Fleetgard LF3487, but it has no standpipe.


Thanks Dan! It amazes me how you come up with this stuff!

Sounds like you would use the 51806 if your oil pump did not have the standpipe. I know mine do but I have seen many that don't.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 6:14 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Tue Apr 18, 2017 7:53 pm
Posts: 67
Location: PA
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Thanks Dan , my oil filter is up side down so those wall-mart filters
are most likely not a good choice
Only filters with a stand pipe would be a very big thing

Update : 5 /8/17 I will change oil filter from wall-mart
I notice some times that typical no oil sound equal to a fresh unprimed oil filter at startup .

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Last edited by Mr.6 on Mon May 08, 2017 12:06 am, edited 1 time in total.

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