A Holley blue pump and regulator can be set from 1-14 psi and do not require a return line.

Carter makes a nice 5 psi street pump that does not require a regulator at all.

You can get a 3 pole oil pressure switch for a late 70's Slant. It was used to control the electric choke. You can use the OP pole for either your light or an ignition kill, and the choke poles can control the pump.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

The Carters are good pumps. I've gone 12's with them with a 383 and a TQ.

Not that this is scientific, but I used both the $80 Carter and the $80 Holley red pump on my lard bus. The Carter burned up in a month or so, I have 60k on the Holley with no trouble. That's my 2¢.

Kip On Truckin'

_________________
1965 Valiant wagon Turbo slant (work in progress)
2000 Chevy 155" cargo van - The Abductor
1970 Newport convertible
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon
1966 CruiseAire motor home
1990 Toyota 1 ton box truck TURBO slant (scraped)

"Deadhead" regulators (those without a return line) drive up the pressure, which reduces the pump's flow rate and put more strain on the pump. Whereas with a return type, you don't see any more pressure at the pump than the pressure at the regulator and the extra pressure needed to push the fuel through the lines. Here's an example of how the pump flow changes with pressure:



That's the pressure at the pump, not the pressure at the regulator. A deadhead regulator pretty much drives the pressure up until the flow is low enough. Using the pump in the above example with a deadhead regulator would be a very bad idea, but it's perfectly safe to use with a carb if it has a bypass regulator. (The pump in the above example is a good deal larger than what you'd need on any known slant six...)

_________________
"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

sorry for kicking up an old topic, but am I correct, if I want to use an electric fuel pump then:

1: I install it near the tank
2: the pump should operate at low pressure; is a pump with 3.19 psi to 5.51 psi enough or too much? (e.g. this one; https://www.autodoc.nl/ridex/8056266) and then I don't need a return fuel line to the tank right?
3: the wiring is one from ignition, and one grounded.
4: taking out the old mechanical pump neccessary or not? if so, are there standard metal plates available to replace the mechanical fuel pump?
5: does someone have a howto or scheme how to install a cut off switch or something that prevents fuel from being pumped when the car breaks down or in case of an accident?

_________________
Renault 5 '84, '64 Dart GT Convertible

in this case yeah.
but compared to a newer modern in tank pump, for ease of replacement when needed, given a choice between replacing the in tank one and a mechanical one on the side of the engine I'd rather unbolt 2 bolts on the side of the engine, slide old one out and new one in... instead of having to drop a tank or take off a truck bed anyday/ since the in tank electrics never seem to die when the tank is near empty.

1. Why?
2. Read this.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.