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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 1:33 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

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Does a 72 225 straight 6 have hydraulic lifters or are they solid? How would I adjust them if they are solid?

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 1:55 pm 
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They're solid, assuming someone has not swapped in an '81 or later engine. See valve adjustment procedure.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 4:49 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

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Thank you for the info couldn't you also just adjust the valves in a row as one closes and so on

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 5:16 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model*: 76 D100
No. You adjust them as they open, not as they close. You also have to use the correct feeler gauge for the valve you are adjusting. The best things in life, like a well adjusted slant six, don't come easy.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 5:09 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

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I get that but as the intake valve opens the exhaust valve closes so the lobe would be on the rounded side, so you could get an a accurate reading and adjustment.
it's the same way I was taught in auto shop, so you didn't have to bounce around a 350 so much
As long asthe lobe isn't on the lifter it shouldn't matterhow it's done as long as there's no pressure is what I'm trying to get at

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 5:24 pm 
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You asked how to adjust the valves. You got the answer. If you are bound and determined to use a random method you think you remember being told works on a Chev 350...why bother asking in the first place?

:shrug:

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 6:14 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

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Just asking I plan on follow in the proper order

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 6:37 pm 
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Quote:
You adjust them as they open, not as they close.


They open or they close pretty fast while its running!!! :lol: :lol:

Rick

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 6:10 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
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Turn the wrench sideways (parallel to the block) and it will not bounce as much. Warm it up good, and adjust all the intakes at once,and all the exhausts at once so you do not have to keep changing gauges, and you can compare all exhausts as you go. The goal is to have them all feel the same. If you cannot slide the gauge once you get it under the rocker, it is too tight. Just loose enough to move it some. If it moves to easily, they are too loose. Again, the goal is all the same, and not too tight. One that is too loose can be heard clicking louder.One that is too tight makes it miss when it is warm.

I find my slants have run better with looser adjustments,(but all the same). Mine are 18 intake, and 25 exhaust.

Sam

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 9:02 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

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Thank you guys for the help I got my valves adjusted, some where way tight and some where super loose

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 9:05 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

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I also found the carb was super loose, hoping that tightening that down would help with the over heating issue

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 3:18 pm 
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when i adjust mine i change the timeing so the motor slows down to 300-400 rpm. once you get the hang of adjusting a slant six its farly easy and can be done under 45mins.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 3:25 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
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45 minutes? Get your skates on, mate!

Once the motor is warmed up a valve adjustment shouldn't take more than 15 minutes. Go get some groceries or drive around for about ten minutes then go home, pull the valve cover, slow your idle down, and adjust away.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 4:59 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

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I adjusted my valves in about 20 minutes the first shot with checking and double checking, it was kinda fun.

I was raised on chevy and they get really messy when you add a high flow oil pump, had one bored 30 over and it squirting oil about 3 inches out of the pushrod tubes

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 5:10 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Reed wrote:
45 minutes? Get your skates on, mate!


I know im kinda slow but i mean from start to finish. Plus i tend to over check them for my exhaust valves are always to tight.

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