I have successfully purged air from cooling system many times from this slant, but this time after pulling engine to reseal timing cover and oil pan I have not been able to get the heater circuit to flow coolant. The hoses feel empty, there is some heat coming from heater, but not like it would kick lot before engine pull. New water pump at time of rebuild around 2000 mils ago.

Using a huge funnel contraption that clamps down onto radiator filler neck sold to aid cooling system burping has not achieved getting coolant through heater hoses. Detaching the heater hose supplying heater core at fire wall enabled water to be poured into it with aid of a funnel which caused radiator level to come up. Attaching a short length of heater hose to open port at fire wall and flowing water to heater and out to hydronic hot-spot under intake manifold and from there to water pump cause coolant to flow from first detached hose. The assumption now is heater circuit is mostly full of fluid.

My question now is why would this thing be so hard to purge this time, when previously was no problem?

I have a little rocker arm replacement project under way at the moment, so won't be able to start and bring engine up to temperature for a while today.

Device I purchased looks a lot like this one, except I paid a lot less for it:

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Now the rocker shaft is back in, lash adjusted, I went for a test drive all 1100 feet one way a few times to get her warmed up. Heater is blowing hot air, heater lines can't be squished closed as before... We'll see once it cools down and check the radiator level.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.

82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp

07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Weird. Slant-6s usually don't have problems with air entrapment in the cooling system. Do you have a nonstandard radiator of some kind, or…?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Would Drilling a small ~1/8"Ø hole in the top of the Thermostat plate help at all in filling and letting air out of the head to the rad. Cap?


Wajr, do you have an overflow bottle installed?

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Greg,

In the past I have drilled a smaller hole then 1/8" in the thermostat, and orientated it at 12:00 o'clock to aid in air displacement when refilling cooling system.

There is an overflow canister and it is plumbed in, and in the past it would move coolant back and forth like it is designed to do between heat cycles.

Dan,
I wonder if there is something a muck with the new water pump installed during the rebuild. The pump looked exactly the same as the one replaced. First 600 miles on fresh engine it ran very hot, very quickly at a light and gauge pointed a good deal right of noon while underway. Currently gauge is reading where it always had previous to rebuild.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.

82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp

07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

cool, that all sounds right from my perspective.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I'm used to fresh rebuilds running a little warm until they break in a bit.
As long as it's in the normal range now, I wouldn't worry.

I often pull the temperature sender while filling to bleed the head.

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O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

Sixinthehead:



Pulling temperature sensor, or the second little plug near by is a good idea



Who ever smelt it, dealt it.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.

82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp

07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC