I don't see why that wouldn't work. Could even be a "bolt on" affair.

~THOR ~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Picking up the first of 2 engines today, an 82 Juice motor. Price was about right and I like the idea of hydraulic lifters for this project.

Now, to find another one...

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I would really suggest talking to a knowledgeable staff member ( ie not sales, etc) at a company like ATI and get a feel from them as to your potential torsional crank issues, if any. You are really out in the weeds on this project, and hate to see such a unique project DOA disaster because of an early, easy to fix design assumption. You said you got the time, so its only the investment of a phone call.

I've spent some time talking to whoever would talk to me, some old hot rodders, some actually engineers, etc.

I've got more questions now than I did before!

Anyhow, got hosed on the first engine later that day because the guy claimed someone was going to pay him asking price for the engine. I declined to pay that much, then lo-and-behold 2 days later I receive a text asking if I was still interested.

He was asking $500, I offered $400. Now I'm thinking if I'm going to buy it, I'll offer $300 and not a penny more. Slants around here usually don't sell for $300 anyhow lol

Hmmmm...


~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Possibly a rubber coupler normally used between transmission and driveshaft could be fitted between the engines?

I had a '77 BMW 530 that used one. About 40 bucks new.



Ken

I've been thinking about how to model a coupler using some sort of rubber component in an attempt to provide some "give" in the assembly due to frame flex etc. I think what will need to happen is the creation of a number of differing styles and types of couplers, and just see which one offers the best performance (NVH, longevity, ease of service, etc.).

I do believe I have a solution on how to modify the crank snout for attaching the coupler to the rear engine.

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Then you are asking the right questions, no point in reinventing the wheel, just need to find those with knowledge rather then guessers.
Most of the reliable experts in the fields I meet, have little problem in stating they don't know, and I trust them for that.

I agree, maybe look at how the folks that couple multiple engines for tractor pulling or multi engine land speed vehicles do that.

You probably will not need anything as robust, but directionally maybe you could work up what they do.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Did you just buy a mig welder!!!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Haha, I have one, but I don't plan to use it on the crank!

A cutting tool will be the ticket here methinks....


~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

My forklift has a adapter that centers and bolts to the harmonic balancer off the crank to drive the main hydraulic pump. Its a short, about 8" long double u joint driveshaft with the 3 bolt flange going to the balancer and I think 6 spline going to the pump. The pump isn't much of a load but I'm sure the little driveshaft can take quite a load. I would try to find some sort of steel bellhousing first to mate both engines together, one that you could bolt up to one end and make a flange you could weld onto and dowel pin to the other for alignment. Then mill the ends square to each other. Some sort of coupler hidden in between both under the bellhousing.

I hadn't thought of a driveshaft type setup. I'll have to put some thinking in to that one. I would prefer to keep the package as short as possible while keeping it easy to service. A short driveshaft would definitely handle power well.

Hmmmmm....

~THOR~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing