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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2018 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14153
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Awesome John!

Slants generally like a lot of lead. There are quite a few threads on here about advance curves and such.

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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 4:53 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2018 1:20 am
Posts: 29
Location: Australia
Car Model: VC valiant regal
Looks really good. Nice clean engine bay.


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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2018 1:20 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2018 11:44 am
Posts: 31
Location: Payson, Az
Car Model: 1974 Plymouth Duster
67regal wrote:
Looks really good. Nice clean engine bay.

Thanks. Ok, pulled the distributor last week and went through it. Electronic distributor in 74. All original and pretty gummed up. Disassembled it and cleaned everything. Stock, it had 15* mechanical in it. Welded up the slots to give it 11*. Removed the heavy spring and replaced it with a light spring from my distributor spring stock. I don't have a distributor machine, so until I get it back in the motor and run it, I have no clue where the curve will fall in. once I got it back in the car, I used my set - back timing light to plot the curve. Used 9 separate rpm points. Set the initial timing at 14* which is where I had been running it prior to the dist. work. 14 initial plus 22 at the crank would give me a total mechanical of 36*. So, the advance started at about 1100 rpm and it was all in at 2500 rpm. A little more aggressive than I was shooting for ( wanted it all in around 2800 - 3000rpm), but the motor seems to like it, so I will leave it for now. Vacuum advance adds another 15* for a total of about 51* at cruise. Again, a little more than I wanted. Need to find an adjustable vacuum can so I can cut it back to about 48* total at cruise. I think I'm in the ball park anyway.


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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2018 10:10 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
FYI...
Most 225 SL6 engines make better top-end power when the total advance is around 30 degrees.
Hard to know / test this unless you make a bunch of drag strip passes while trying different advance settings...
(We usually see the best MPH numbers with the total set at 30 degrees)

A well trained "seat-of-the-pants" feels like the car does not pull as hard (feels "sluggish") at high speed WOT.
(over-advancing with light high RPM detonation, that you can't easily hear)
More testing may-be in your future.
DD


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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 10:03 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2018 11:44 am
Posts: 31
Location: Payson, Az
Car Model: 1974 Plymouth Duster
Doctor Dodge wrote:
FYI...
Most 225 SL6 engines make better top-end power when the total advance is around 30 degrees.
Hard to know / test this unless you make a bunch of drag strip passes while trying different advance settings...
(We usually see the best MPH numbers with the total set at 30 degrees)

A well trained "seat-of-the-pants" feels like the car does not pull as hard (feels "sluggish") at high speed WOT.
(over-advancing with light high RPM detonation, that you can't easily hear)
More testing may-be in your future.
DD

Thanks for that info. I'm "seat of the pants" everything with this motor/car. My race car has been in moth balls for a few years and I'm a new guy to / motors. Appreciate any info like yours I can get. I will definitely try running the total back a bit and see if my "pants' like it. Seat of the pants testing a motor that barely makes a 100 HP at 5000 ft above sea level can be - numbing. :?


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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2018 10:21 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14153
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
I pulled the Valiant motor back to 34 from 42. It liked it a lot.

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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2018 7:06 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2018 11:44 am
Posts: 31
Location: Payson, Az
Car Model: 1974 Plymouth Duster
slantzilla wrote:
I pulled the Valiant motor back to 34 from 42. It liked it a lot.

Actually, that's about where I'm at right now Dennis. Went from a total lead of 38 back to 30 this morning. Felt sluggish, so I went back up to 35. I think my little 1 barrel carb aint helpin any.
Latest Mopar Muscle had an article on swapping a 1-barrel for a Holley 2 barrel - using an Edelbrock 4 barrel manifold. "We recommend this swap for any bone stock 225". ---- ya, if you have unlimited funds. :mrgreen: They spent over $900!! I have access to a milling machine and been thinking about modifying a 1 barrel manifold ( with an adapter) to accept a 2 barrel carb. Know anyone who has done that?


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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2018 8:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14153
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Yes. There have also put 4 bbl carbs on 1 bbl intakes. IIRC, they even had the plans for it in the old D C Slant 6 Racing Manual.

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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 5:49 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8455
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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Crizila wrote:
I have access to a milling machine and been thinking about modifying a 1 barrel manifold ( with an adapter) to accept a 2 barrel carb. Know anyone who has done that?


The first nonstock intake I ran on a slant was a 1bbl modified for a 500cfm holley 2bbl.
I milled the 1 bbl carb mounting area flat. Cut a 3/8 thick steel plate to match the Holley 2bbl flange. Spray welded the plate to the manifold (throttle shaft inline to the engine, and float bowl toward the rocker cover). By mounting this way, I could use the stock 1965 "twisty" throttle linkage. After welding, I bored through the plate, and manifold for the mounting bolts, and barrels. The only problem I had, was the carb was not high enough off the manifold, ad the accelerator parts hit the manifold. I cured that by using a Ford carb spacer. Built the manifold in 1977, and ran it untill, two years ago, on my 65 Valiant, and 66 Barracuda with a 170's.

PS: Added a nitrous fogger system to the manifold, around 2001.

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65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170


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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 8:03 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2018 11:44 am
Posts: 31
Location: Payson, Az
Car Model: 1974 Plymouth Duster
Charrlie_S wrote:
Crizila wrote:
I have access to a milling machine and been thinking about modifying a 1 barrel manifold ( with an adapter) to accept a 2 barrel carb. Know anyone who has done that?


The first nonstock intake I ran on a slant was a 1bbl modified for a 500cfm holley 2bbl.
I milled the 1 bbl carb mounting area flat. Cut a 3/8 thick steel plate to match the Holley 2bbl flange. Spray welded the plate to the manifold (throttle shaft inline to the engine, and float bowl toward the rocker cover). By mounting this way, I could use the stock 1965 "twisty" throttle linkage. After welding, I bored through the plate, and manifold for the mounting bolts, and barrels. The only problem I had, was the carb was not high enough off the manifold, ad the accelerator parts hit the manifold. I cured that by using a Ford carb spacer. Built the manifold in 1977, and ran it untill, two years ago, on my 65 Valiant, and 66 Barracuda with a 170's.

PS: Added a nitrous fogger system to the manifold, around 2001.

Thanks for that info!! Any pics? Could be my winter project.


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 Post subject: Re: sick /6 motor
PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2018 12:40 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 8455
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
Car Model:
I'm not good with pics, but I'll try tommorrow, or Monday. I have the manifold on the bench working on it.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170


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