So a billet large enough to do the head was about $325? That would make one big enough to do a block about $1000 or more.

While I don't get whole "aluminum" thing other than the "Oh that is cool factor", I wish him well. Maybe it will turn out to be a Siamese block with 3.6" bore and cost $1000!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Yeah, these things are getting easier. Best of luck to him. Maybe I'll contact him sometime...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

I second..

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I'd be thrilled with a better cast iron head, but as a low budget project iron would be like Elon Musk flying to Mars and back in six months. I think a two piece "bathtub" head could be practical, if just a few were built to prove them. The water passages could be milled and drilled, then sheet metal welded over the water jackets - "a labor of love". After driving a few test mules for a year or two, and should the design solve old complaints, attempt to find a pattern maker to produce a one-piece casting. I figure if the alloy head didn't crack or warp and the valve seats didn't drop out, then how could you not improve upon the OEM head? I think that a price of $2,800 could sell a couple dozen heads, but not as a light weight novelty. The alloy head would have to be super duper. If it took a 90 hp stock block to 110, I don't think there would be much demand for it. Actually, a 20 hp increase on the low compression motor would be fantastic, but it just wouldn't sell enough to pay for the tooling and labor. If an alloy head worked much better with boost or na with a compression increase than the OEM head, then maybe it would sell to racers. Go Robert Maw, go!

A chunk of aluminum to make a block would be way for than $1000....that's because when you get into sizes that large you pretty much fall out of bed on 'off the shelf' aluminum. You'd most likely have to order it as a custom.

I seriously doubt a head sized block of alum could be obtained for anywhere near $325, I'd guess closer to $1K area. I spotted that detail earlier, but since others are using that number, I think it should really be verified, but regardless, the billet is not anyway the main cost here, as I see it.

Online Metals depot 7-1-20: Filter By:
Stock NumberItem Size & DescriptionWeight / Ft.Select SizeEnter QTYPriceAdd to Cart
F468
6 X 8
6061-T6511 Aluminum Flat
57.00 lb/ft

6 Ft.
1
$2493.36 ea.
In Stock

I find it interesting that he is now doing a block. He originally was going to use a mint aluminum block he already has.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Is the head completed?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

yeah...it seems that if a block is afoot before the head is finished, there might well be some loss of direction in play.

6061 is probably the most general basic grade of aluminum. It's cheap, and is typically strong enough for middle of the road parts that are not going to be used in high stress applications. It is often mislabeled as an aircraft grade aluminum, but it isn't. As you pointed out, when you machined some billets or castings, they do curl or cup. This is because stresses are released internally as its machined. Higher grades of aluminum that truly are aircraft grades such as 2024 or 7075 have properties in them that help resist the tendencies to deform when machined. They are also much stronger than 6061, but also have properties that need more attention than 6061. 6061 is very corrosion resistant, while 2024 and 7075 often needs to be coated such as anodized to protect it from corrosion, and are also more difficult to weld.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

I believe you are fairly spot on all your points. However those on the sidelines, should understand a real aircraft grade of the two you mentioned, could easily almost double the material cost.

I frequently visit the scrap yard, always curious as to what others consider to be junk. Its one place that I wish had a web cam. Sometimes I see a chunk of steel big enough to mill the lower block - main bearing web and lower support. To the Robert Maws, I'd like to see somebody build a one-one welded "big bore" block. I guess it wouldn't be a slant six anymore if it only used the OEM crankshaft, but that would be cool.

So why waste time with aluminum? Isn't there some sort of "plastic" that is as strong and heat resitent and can be used with a 3D printer?

There is such a plastic, but anyone who has any of it is 3D printing compliant, nubile, and properly subservient women.

Not on his planet, yet.