So I got my car running for the first time in 10 years after rebuilding. I’ve got a pesky oil leak at the very front corner where the pan bolts into the timing chain cover. Didn’t notice this until I started running the car and everything had pressure put on it. it’s not the easiest boat to get to. Is there any way to fix this leak without pulling the crankshaft, pulley and timing chain cover off?

I've had to re-seal that spot before as well.

I removed the oil pan, and got a new oil pan gasket, and used a restrained but sufficient amount of RTV on joint between the oil pan rail gasket and the rubber wedge..

others may have better advice and experience.

So the leak is not coming from the oil pan bolt. I had a buddy watch it with a flashlight. There’s a small metal “post” that’s part of the engine block that goes through a small hole in the timing chain cover. It’s a weird design. A guy who used to teach automotive classes said he’d put a small washer and tight threaded nut on it with a little gasket sealer

Here’s an idea.

Not so weird. That’s the locating dowel to center the cover on the block. Without it the bolts would allow a bit of wobble as they are not precise. It’s to help precisely locate the crankshaft seal.

One of Doc’s tricks is to oversize that hole to allow the cover to float a bit. This will make it so the seal can locate the cover instead of the other way around.

If it does leak just clean it real good with brake cleaner and blow it dry then smush some of your favorite sealer over it.

So I don’t need to take it off? Just clean it, dry it and use sealer?

If your sure that’s the only spot leaking and not the oil pan junction then no I wouldn’t take anything apart. The chances of making things worse are much higher.

That point collects drops and runoff, it’s not under pressure. Park it where you plan on working. I would let it sit overnight after the last start so anything that’s dripping on it has finished. Then go through several cycles of brake clean and blow dry. I learned that the hard way…. By the time I cleaned mine and went to go grab the sealer it was oozing again.

That junction of timing cover and oil pan is a miserable spot to deal with an oil leak. I had to pull the timing cover after a total engine rebuild to advance the cam in the car (builder did not use a timing wheel). I was never able to get it to reseal after several attempts, and ended up pulling the engine. I was not a happy camper. That little locating hole was the sand in the Vaseline.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

After few engine takeoffs and seal replacement I have added an external vacuum pump to get crankcase pressure under the athmosphere pressure. First tests have been promising.



The pump is from Rockauto and designed act as an electric smog pump. It is controlled by the ecu (of the engine) and uses about 10% of its performance in cruising speed (=low vacuum). Under full throttle the pump speed increases with the boost.

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1966 Dart. 170 cu.in. 200 rwhp.