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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2024 2:08 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 1322
Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Killer6 wrote:
hyper_pak wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7daGYuiD6U

About 10 minutes in.

One thing that stuck out, they used the .060"/.090" split, not certain exactly if to center rest of mains, or throws on bore center. Either way, They had to machine the back of the crank sprocket to get it in line w/the cam, so Your machining isn't over with these shim spacers.

I caught that as well. And depending on your piston/connecting rod combo, that offset can cause the S/E of the rods to rub the inside of the pin bosses in the pistons. You would just need to do a visual to confirm....

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2024 6:38 am 
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Triple Duece Weber
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Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2004 6:05 pm
Posts: 2039
Location: Desoto Texas
Car Model: 1972 Dodge Colt
Yea, I know there are some unstated issues that need to be investigated.
I need to get the block on a stand and drop in a crank just to start the process.
I guess there is no plug and play solution.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2024 8:27 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
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Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
I don't think either process would be a deal breaker, they both are relatively easy to do or get done...I'd like to know why they needed to create an offset in the placement of the bearing. They could have just added a second modification to the process unnecessarily....

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2024 8:42 am 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Personally I see it as reinventing the wheel. When you're done the wheel is still round, just way more expensive.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2024 9:24 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 1322
Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
Yep....the gains from swapping blocks is probably immeasurable in performance and ET at the track....

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2024 5:43 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2006 11:31 am
Posts: 59
Location: St louis MO
Car Model: A couple slant six mopars and other mopars
Stan,
I have the ability and accuses to the equipment needed, but loaded with projects.
How quickly are you wanting the shims?
Let me see if I can find some material in the correct .060 and .090 thickness.
Let me know would be happy to help.

Bill


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2024 6:08 pm 
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Triple Duece Weber
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Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2004 6:05 pm
Posts: 2039
Location: Desoto Texas
Car Model: 1972 Dodge Colt
Thanks Bill, there is no rush for sure
I will contact you will some details.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2024 9:08 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Sep 13, 2014 8:25 am
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Location: Springtucky OR
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I think it's important to verify that 0.060" and 0.090" are actually the precisely required dimensions. You don't want even 1-2 thousandths of slop in the thrust bearing. You also don't want it to be 1-2 thousandths too tight

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2024 6:38 am 
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Triple Duece Weber
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Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2004 6:05 pm
Posts: 2039
Location: Desoto Texas
Car Model: 1972 Dodge Colt
I agree on the thrust number.
I just changed cranks in my motor and measured thrust.
It is a critical number.

Off subject but related, I built a 360 for my Ramchager years a go.
I got the engine from an unknown source.
I never checked thrust.
I had checked trust on many engines and never had any problems.
So I ASSUMED it was much ado about nothing.
It was over a Christmas holiday so I only had a few days for the whole deal.
First crank and run was fine.
I put a timing light on the damper and WOW, the damper moved in and out at least a 10th!
I had never seen any movement before and it scared me big time!
I was stuck, didn't have a Plan B and I had to run it.
That engine ran a whole year before the next Christmas and I had rebuilt the original 360.
On tear down the trust surface on the rear was wiped out.
Machine shop did not catch it, or did I.
Lesson learned.

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