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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 5:56 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 5:55 am
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Location: Brightwood, VA
Car Model*: 1965 Plymouth Belvedere I
OK, so I watched the latest Uncle Tony's Garage video, the one titled "Even more shocking suspension secrets revealed"
This one discusses front shocks-particularly Mopar torsion bar suspensions. I had heard of draining oil from shocks, but never actually knew the particulars. Has anyone ever run front shocks drained of oil? When I raced my Fury, I put used, worn out shocks on the front and this seemed to work very well. I have never drained oil from shocks though. I always thought that to be a little extreme, especially on street/strip cars. I did buy a pair of Strange adjustable front racing shocks for the Belvedere but now I am wondering if I should just go with the worn out OE style. It will be soooo nice to get some miles on this thing and do some comparison testing.
Just wondering what others are doing on their drag cars.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 6:02 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:36 am
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Location: Rome, GA
Car Model*: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
While my car is not that powerful, it does hook up well with worn out bouncey shocks on front.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:17 am 
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Supercharged
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I would refer here.

https://www.amazon.com/How-Hook-Launch- ... 1934709352

probably a bit more reputable and reliable source than UT. I know the book is somewhat GM based, but it's all physics, and the concepts can be understood and applied to all types of suspensions

My car does not produce a ton on horsepower and I have cheapish 3 way adjustables on the front and garbage on the back. Mopars have the adjustable front suspension which helps alot.

Every car is a bit different with regard to driveline, tire size, weight distribution, instant center, suspension geomety etc.

Greg

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:21 am 
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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My guess is you will not have trouble hooking up if you have any kind of decent tire, so best to just get it running with whatever shocks you have and test from there.

Personally, I set my stuff up for handling and street manners and then try to make little adjustments or bolt on a bigger tire to hook it up at the dragstrip.

Lou

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:59 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Mar 16, 2004 6:25 am
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Location: Tompkinsville, KY
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Why not just remove the shocks at that point?
Too much bounce keeps cycling the suspension instead of letting it settle.

Adjustable is a much better choice.
That way you can tune 90/10 for the drags and 50/50 (or whatever numbers work for you) for handling.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 2:53 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Brightwood, VA
Car Model*: 1965 Plymouth Belvedere I
Greg, I have that book. An interesting read and is somewhat GM biased, but I did get some good info. I like having a big library selection of technical books to refer to. I still search the web, but I prefer printed material when I can get it.

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Last edited by Badvert65 on Tue Apr 07, 2020 4:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 4:20 pm 
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Need to ask Seymour about this. He might have drained the front shocks to lose some weight.
It would be interesting to see if there was a difference in 60' times, filled or drained.

Mark


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:34 pm 
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Location: Everett, WA
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The air shock on the passenger side works. I did it 40 years ago. Let's see 10 psi on the driver side, 30 psi on the passenger side. This was with 5 leaf springs moved into the rails, mini tub, 15x10 centerlines with P295Rx50 TAs and narrowed 8 3/4 axle. I ran 4.56 gears and a 4 speed. 55 mph at 3000rpm. Those were the days...


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 1:44 pm 
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Car Model*: 68 Valiant
Draining the oil is what they did 50 years ago before people really started working on suspensions. It works ok if you have no horsepower.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 1:50 pm 
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Team Green wrote:
Need to ask Seymour about this. He might have drained the front shocks to lose some weight.
It would be interesting to see if there was a difference in 60' times, filled or drained.

Mark

Cool.

Put a weld bung and an npt plug in your shocks

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2020 6:30 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

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I use the slant car for country roads and highway driving, and don't crave burning rubber in a straight line. I watched the video, and it seemed like the setup was exclusively for drag racing. I have big t-bars and Bilstein shocks that seem pretty great for road trips. Also 1" de-arched six leaf rear springs.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2020 6:35 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:36 am
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Location: Rome, GA
Car Model*: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
Yes, UTG puts a lot of emphasis on LOW BUCK drag racing mods.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2020 1:23 pm 
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Car Model*: 68 Valiant
drgonzo wrote:
Yes, UTG puts a lot of emphasis on LOW BUCK LOW HORSEPOWER drag racing mods.

Fixed :mrgreen:

When I raced the red car it used a pair of bolt-on slapper bars and 4 worn out stock shocks. On the hose I 60 footed with Mike in the Valiant once. The issue was it would not repeat. It was a lot of fun to drive though.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2020 3:10 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Rome, GA
Car Model*: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
slantzilla wrote:
drgonzo wrote:
Yes, UTG puts a lot of emphasis on LOW BUCK LOW HORSEPOWER drag racing mods.

Fixed :mrgreen:

When I raced the red car it used a pair of bolt-on slapper bars and 4 worn out stock shocks. On the hose I 60 footed with Mike in the Valiant once. The issue was it would not repeat. It was a lot of fun to drive though.


Well mine IS a LOW HORSEPOWER effort. :mrgreen:

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