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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 5:33 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 6:52 pm
Posts: 156
Location: Annapolis, Maryland
Car Model*: 1974 Dart Swinger 225
It seems there were a couple of different 10" brake systems, a 10"x1.75" (SBP?) and a 10"x2.5" (LBP?) which had different backing plates. How would I know I'm getting the right ones? Do I just need to look for the 4.5" bolt pattern?

Here's the photo I meant to include earlier. Looks like it's a Sure-Grip?
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 6:46 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2003 6:55 pm
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Location: Strasburg, VA
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rich006 wrote:

Here's the photo I meant to include earlier. Looks like it's a Sure-Grip?
Image


Looks like one to me

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65 Dart station wagon slant 6 - now under construction
47 Dodge Custom 4 Door sedan
87 D100 Short Bed slant 6

Retired USAF 1966-1986
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 Post subject: Yep...
PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 8:15 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
Looks like one to me


Yes it does....that's a nice bonus and about a $400 savings....in rear end upgrades.... :wink:

So you can just save up the money for a ratio upgrade and labor and you are all set in the future...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 4:45 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 6:52 pm
Posts: 156
Location: Annapolis, Maryland
Car Model*: 1974 Dart Swinger 225
Any tips on finding or identifying the correct 10" brakes? I think I need 10"x2.5"? I'll probably head back to the salvage yard for the parts that aren't readily available from a parts shop. As far as I know, those parts include:
-backing plate
-strut (spreader?) connecting primary and secondary shoes
-what else?
Can I reuse the parking brake cables from my 7.25" rear, or the ones that came with my new 8.25" rear?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 01, 2016 4:55 pm 
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Location: Everett, WA
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The only part needed from the junk yard is the backing plates. You can use one from the 8.25, 8.75 and the 9.25. They are all the same for the 10x2.5 brakes, which only comes with 5x4.5 bolt pattern.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 9:06 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 6:52 pm
Posts: 156
Location: Annapolis, Maryland
Car Model*: 1974 Dart Swinger 225
1. Do the struts (spreaders) come with other parts? I'm not seeing them for sale anywhere.
2. Where can I find the rubber bumper piece that sits on top of the bracket bolted onto the pumpkin? Are they the same for all rears?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 12:33 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2003 6:55 pm
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Location: Strasburg, VA
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rich006 wrote:
2. Where can I find the rubber bumper piece that sits on top of the bracket bolted onto the pumpkin? Are they the same for all rears?


I seem to remember seeing them for sale on eBay

_________________
65 Dart station wagon slant 6 - now under construction
47 Dodge Custom 4 Door sedan
87 D100 Short Bed slant 6

Retired USAF 1966-1986
Retired US Postal Service 2004-2014


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 5:06 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 6:52 pm
Posts: 156
Location: Annapolis, Maryland
Car Model*: 1974 Dart Swinger 225
Just to be clear, I have the metal bracket part. I only need the rubber piece. I would think there would be some generic part that would do, but I don't know what size it should be.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 8:11 pm 
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You're motorin' along on this swap, so here's that info I alluded to earlier:

These cars, with discs up front and 10" × 1-3/4" drums in back, were well known for scary-easy rear lockup. Easy fix you should definitely do, especially since your rear brakes are going to be larger 10" × 2-1/2" items. Take a page out of Chrysler's book and apply the fix they released in 1962 for police cars that were also prone to scary-easy rear lockup: smaller-bore cylinders in the rear brakes. Read about it here and here. Get that: they knew how to fix the problem, the parts were right there on the shelf, but despite "Consumer Reports" and every car mag bìtching about scary-easy rear lockup on A-bodies with front discs, Chrysler stared at the sky and said "Huh, looks like rain" and kept putting the big 15/16" rear wheel cylinders on non-cop cars.

You don't have to put up with it, and you don't have to futz with an adjustable proportioning valve. The smaller-bore cylinders are an easy, cheap bolt-on that solves the problem without creating new ones.

13/16" bore rear wheel cylinders are NAPA-United 37696, Raybestos WC37696, Wagner F113704, or ACDelco 18E268

A step smaller, 3/4" bore rear wheel cylinders are NAPA 37863, Raybestos WC37863, Bendix 34076, Wagner WC123412, Centric 134.67015, or Chrysler 4423 852.

Left = right.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2016 5:53 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 6:52 pm
Posts: 156
Location: Annapolis, Maryland
Car Model*: 1974 Dart Swinger 225
Thanks for that info, Dan. I had already decided to switch to 10" brakes based on your previous recommendation and my general preference for keeping everything stock. If for some reason I decide to keep the 11" brakes, I'll get the smaller diameter wheel cylinders.

By the way, I found the part number for the 8.25" pinion snubber bumper (at the bottom of this post at dippy.org). It's 3845139 and is available from PartsZoneOnline.com and mmpar.com for just a few dollars. I'm assuming the bumper was the same for A-bodies equipped with the 8.25" rear as it was for the later cars.


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