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 Post subject: rearend goo
PostPosted: Sat Jan 02, 2016 8:27 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2126
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I recently swapped out my rear axles to go from SBP to LBP. I had a while ago changed my 8 3/4 chunk to 2.76 gears, sure-grip, newly rebuilt clutches. The ring and pinion were new (NOS gears, still in the original box). After the first 500 miles or so, I drained the gear oil and replaced it. Now, with another 5000 miles on the rear end, I decided to drain the gear oil and replace. I just wanted to see what it looked like. FYI, when I did the chunk swap, I installed a drain plug in the pumpkin for just this purpose - I don't know why Chrysler didn't do this, and I recommend it to anyone, saves lots of time and makes gear oil changes very easy. Not that you'd do them very often, but still, a drain plug is so logical here.

Here is an article on the subject, fyi: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transmissi ... l-housing/

The first portion of the gear oil was full of, I suppose, clutch material or something. It was very thick and gray in color. After a decent portion had drained, the rest was pretty clear (purple in my case). My drain plug was magnetic so there was "fuzz" on it as well. I suppose that is from breaking in the new gears.

Is this normal to see so much thick gray goo/sediment in the case with so few miles on the gears? From the big side plug hole, the gears look good, they are very clean and I don't see any strange wear. The rear end is quiet, the mesh pattern was good. I didn't install the gears, but I had the mechanic send me pics of the mesh pattern when he installed them.

Brian

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2016 3:21 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14151
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Gray usually indicates moisture in oil. How much gray was there? Is your vent plugged?

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 Post subject: goo
PostPosted: Sun Jan 03, 2016 1:58 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2126
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
it is vented, not blocked.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 10:40 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
You will get quite a lot of metal in the oil during the break-in process and that process takes a few thousand miles. I had a lot of fuzz on my trans and diff magnets on my new truck when I dumped the factory fill at 7500 miles.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 5:31 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3807
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
the hot rod magazine tip,, puts the threaded drain at the 6:00 Pm position,,

when reworking the 8.75 hsg for the 68 barracuda I added a bottom drain, as listed in the atricle, but I put it at the 5:00 Pm position,,

when I lift the rear of a vehicle I tend to use a floor jack under the diff,,

getting the drain plug off center of the jack,,
gives me peace of mind concerning a stressed or strained threaded plug.
OK I have 4 oz of diff fluid that does not drain,,,


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 Post subject: drain plug
PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 12:56 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2126
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I used a hex socket plug so it sits flush (or below) to the case. That said, I usually don't use the pumpkin to lift the car, I just didn't want it sticking out for any reason...

I did put it slightly off from where the article showed so that the magnet didn't hit the ring gear. But, it is close and so picked up any metal during breakin.

http://www.mcmaster.com/mva/library/201 ... 1354545524


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