Slant *        6        Forum
Home Home Home
The Place to Go for Slant Six Info!
Click here to help support the Slant Six Forum!
It is currently Wed Apr 24, 2024 3:42 pm

All times are UTC-07:00




Forum locked  This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 4 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Battery Drain
PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2002 12:59 am 
Hi Gang. I am having electrical trouble with my 66 Dart /6 225. I just put in a new alternator, Mopar Performance electronic ignition kit, starter, starter relay, battery, etc. so I think we can rule out many of the parts. I unhooked the new CD player to rule that out as a potential source of the problem as well. My symptoms are as follows- car dies while driving due to zero power left in battery and will not start. Once I get a jump, I can drive it for a few feet then it dies again. Obviously the battery is not recharging properly. There are several areas that I would like to focus on. 1) On the alternator there are 2 field terminals- what do I with the second one since my previous alternator only had 1? 2) How can I tell if the alternator meter (ammeter?) on my dash is bad? The previous owner told me that it never worked correctly, though this is subject to debate since it shows a drain and that is what I have been experiencing. I also saw a previous post saying that the author traced his charging problem to the meter itself. Where can I get a replacement meter if this is the case? 3) I pulled out a snakes nest of wiring from under my dash where one of the previous owners had put in a cheap ass car alarm and stereo system. There were 3 black modules about 0.75 x 1.5 inches spliced in to the wiring that had the look of relevant (original) parts due to the thick, old wiring attached to the leads. What are these things? I can take photos and post them if need be or provide more information from the modules themselves (It's cold and rainy tonight in Oregon and I'm just glad to have my car home). Other annoying electrical problems are that the dash lights stay on only itermittently (I assume this is the light switch itself) and a horn that makes the relay click but no honking noises. Anyway, any help would be appreciated. I'm new to all this. I am having a lot of fun fixing up the car. I just need to get it a little more reliable. Oh, and I am not adverse to buying a voltage meter and learning how to do some troubleshooting. Who makes a good all around meter for a reasonable price?

Tom



kimpelt@pdx.edu


Top
   
 Post subject: Re: Battery Drain
PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2002 5:57 am 
(User Above) wrote:
: Hi Gang. I am having electrical trouble with my
: 66 Dart /6 225. I just put in a new
: alternator, Mopar Performance electronic
: ignition kit, starter, starter relay,
: battery, etc. so I think we can rule out
: many of the parts. I unhooked the new CD
: player to rule that out as a potential
: source of the problem as well. My symptoms
: are as follows- car dies while driving due
: to zero power left in battery and will not
: start. Once I get a jump, I can drive it for
: a few feet then it dies again. Obviously the
: battery is not recharging properly. There
: are several areas that I would like to focus
: on. 1) On the alternator there are 2 field
: terminals- what do I with the second one
: since my previous alternator only had 1? 2)
: How can I tell if the alternator meter
: (ammeter?) on my dash is bad? The previous
: owner told me that it never worked
: correctly, though this is subject to debate
: since it shows a drain and that is what I
: have been experiencing. I also saw a
: previous post saying that the author traced
: his charging problem to the meter itself.
: Where can I get a replacement meter if this
: is the case? 3) I pulled out a snakes nest
: of wiring from under my dash where one of
: the previous owners had put in a cheap ass
: car alarm and stereo system. There were 3
: black modules about 0.75 x 1.5 inches
: spliced in to the wiring that had the look
: of relevant (original) parts due to the
: thick, old wiring attached to the leads.
: What are these things? I can take photos and
: post them if need be or provide more
: information from the modules themselves
: (It's cold and rainy tonight in Oregon and
: I'm just glad to have my car home). Other
: annoying electrical problems are that the
: dash lights stay on only itermittently (I
: assume this is the light switch itself) and
: a horn that makes the relay click but no
: honking noises. Anyway, any help would be
: appreciated. I'm new to all this. I am
: having a lot of fun fixing up the car. I
: just need to get it a little more reliable.
: Oh, and I am not adverse to buying a voltage
: meter and learning how to do some
: troubleshooting. Who makes a good all around
: meter for a reasonable price?


Tom,

The first thing you have to do is ground that second field terminal on the alternator. That alternator is a dual field alternator that would normally be used on 70 and newer cars. It is perfectly acceptable to use it on your car but the second field terminal must be grounded. It does not make any difference which one. There is usually an instruction sheet in the box with the alternators that tell you to do this if it's being used on 69 or older car.

I think you will find this solves your problem.

FYI, up to 69 one end of the field winding in the alternator was grounded through the alternator case and the voltage regulator switched voltage on and off to the other end of the field winding through the single terminal to control the alternator. On 70 and up cars switched 12 volts was connected to one terminal and the electronic voltage regulator switched the other end to ground to control the alternator. The after market and rebuilders try to cover all applications with one part.

Dave Clement

dave.clement@motorola.com


Top
   
PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2002 9:13 am 
(User Above) wrote:
: Tom,
: The first thing you have to do is ground that
: second field terminal on the alternator.
: That alternator is a dual field alternator
: that would normally be used on 70 and newer
: cars. It is perfectly acceptable to use it
: on your car but the second field terminal
: must be grounded. It does not make any
: difference which one. There is usually an
: instruction sheet in the box with the
: alternators that tell you to do this if it's
: being used on 69 or older car.
:
: I think you will find this solves your problem.
:
: FYI, up to 69 one end of the field winding in
: the alternator was grounded through the
: alternator case and the voltage regulator
: switched voltage on and off to the other end
: of the field winding through the single
: terminal to control the alternator. On 70
: and up cars switched 12 volts was connected
: to one terminal and the electronic voltage
: regulator switched the other end to ground
: to control the alternator. The after market
: and rebuilders try to cover all applications
: with one part.
: Dave Clement


The next step for Tomwould be to test the 66's alt. gauge, yes, these have a history of failure and are difficult to find in good condition these days.
One good way to get around this as a possible cause is to just by-pass the gauge, just connect the two big wires going to the gage directly together and the guage is out of the circuit.
DD


Top
   
PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2002 11:43 am 
Yes. This fixed it. Thanks. Tom

kimpelt@pdx.edu


Top
   
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Forum locked  This topic is locked, you cannot edit posts or make further replies.  [ 4 posts ] 

All times are UTC-07:00


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 15 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited