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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 5:42 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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I checked spark from the coil tower and plug wire on #1, and saw an orange spark. The battery hadn't charged fully at that point so it could still be a factor. I'm by myself, so one factor could still be the 'start' position of the igniton. I can only test by using the starter relay with a screwdriver so I'm only seeing what happens when I trigger it with the key in the 'run' position and not in the 'start' position.

I switched back over to my original canister coil which is also pretty new, and which ran last night. It won't start either now, so I tried switching out the module to another one in case that suddenly got fried (also new). No go. I'm starting to think either the battery has to have way more of a charge than is necessary to turn it over fast, or for some reason my relay isn't triggering off the 'start' position of the ignition switch. I'm calling in a helper.

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1970 Plymouth Duster, 198 Slant Six, Super Six setup w/ EI conversion

http://www.semisynthetic.net/kill-9/gal ... p?album=34


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 10:25 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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killnine wrote:
I checked spark from the coil tower and plug wire on #1, and saw an orange spark. The battery hadn't charged fully at that point so it could still be a factor. I'm by myself, so one factor could still be the 'start' position of the igniton. I can only test by using the starter relay with a screwdriver so I'm only seeing what happens when I trigger it with the key in the 'run' position and not in the 'start' position.

I switched back over to my original canister coil which is also pretty new, and which ran last night. It won't start either now, so I tried switching out the module to another one in case that suddenly got fried (also new). No go. I'm starting to think either the battery has to have way more of a charge than is necessary to turn it over fast, or for some reason my relay isn't triggering off the 'start' position of the ignition switch. I'm calling in a helper.


So I had the dizzy and B/C wired backwards on the canister coil when I tried switching back to it. It still works fine (1.5ohm PErtronix flame-thrower). Just to be sure, I tried the pertronix HV and HC again, and neither of them work. I wonder if there is something odd about the HV and HC that cause them not to work with the HEI module. They are touted as e-core coils, but then again I haven't actually heard of anyone successfully using them as such.

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1970 Plymouth Duster, 198 Slant Six, Super Six setup w/ EI conversion



http://www.semisynthetic.net/kill-9/gal ... p?album=34


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 9:37 pm 
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1 BBL (New)
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Joined: Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:33 pm
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Location: SierraVista, AZ
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Might be a bit off topic but would the curb idle still be 700rpm? BTW awesome mod, installed this just like you wrote it up


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 4:39 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Highland Park, NJ
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Pretty sure I just killed my first HEI module since the mod.

I had a Airtex Wells module installed. with a relay powered by the old lean burn hot wire with an inline fuse, and direct battery voltage fused by whatever fusible link I had on hand.

I just ordered an SMP LX301 from rockauto. (I'm considering getting like 3 cheap spares for limping home purposes).

Does anybody have any hard data on what size fuse or link would actually protect the module?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 8:27 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 4:57 am
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Location: Oslo, Norway
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Some input on connections to the HEI relay, can be found in this thread: Gm Hei Module Conversion Troubles

A stock HEI module may draw as much as 8A, but 3-6A is normal. The 'high-performance' modules on the market may draw even more current, the manufacturer should provide that info with the module.

The point of using a relay is to ensure a high, stable power feed to the module, I don't think that the use of just any fusible link does that. The purpose of a fusible link, is to allow some limited time shorts, bursts or spikes in the power supply wires whithout breaking the connection, which is why you NEVER should use a fusible link to protect electronic components. Always use a normal fuse that blows right away, not even a 'sloblo' version. I use an ordinary flat 15A fuse in my setup, but be free to use any 20-25-30A fuse if your module draws a higher current, the main advantage over a fusible link, is that it blows immediately if there is a short. (I personaly HATE fusible links, and I don't think they should be used in a car at all!)

One of the main factors to prevent a module failure, is to insure that it is mounted to a good heat sink, using a heat transfer paste which can resist the large swing in temperatures experienced under the hood, as well as moisture. The module may produce more than 100 Watts of heat, it is constantly trying to fry itself, it needs protection. An original size module heat sink is available, here an example from summit:
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/mediumlarge/acf-10474610_w_ml.jpg

I hope you manage to make your HEI work as intended, it is one of the most sensible upgrades that can be done to a Mopar. :D

Olaf

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 9:57 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Location: Highland Park, NJ
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Thanks.

I have it mounted w/paste to modified 90's Buick module/coil mount w/ heat sink. I don't think heat killed it.

I used a cheap Airtek Wells module as a place holder/template for fabricating bracket & harness, and to bench test.

I had always intended to change it out (i.e. keep a good quality module as a spare. I just forgot.)

I installed SMP LX301 now. Seems to run even better than it did when the AW unit was first installed.

I will mount a 2-fuse holder on the bracket and eliminate the link and inline fuse.

Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 1:00 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Found a /6 truck that had the conversion already done so I snagged it up. Had the bracket w/ heat sink in one. I also needed the distributor so I got that as well. All under $40.

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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2015 9:48 am 
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Location: Waterloo, Iowa
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Now that the T has (somewhat) proven itself, I'm rounding up the parts for this conversion. I already had three electronic, single-pickup dizzys, but noticed an anomoly. If you look at se7enine's pics above, the distributor retainer plate is longer than I have, with a slotted hole. All mine are a shorter teardrop shape, with no slotted hole. I haven't tried it yet, but I suspect a point-type dizzy retainer plate will swap right on. I just wonder if I'm missing something here.

Oh, and got a bit of sticker shock when I picked up the Napa/Echlin module. $56 and change. I was expecting a bit closer to $30-35. Not sure if I got bent over, or if that seems to be the current going price. Either way, I figure the "Made in U.S.A." is worth the reliability.

Roger


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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2015 9:53 am 
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Roger, that's the later (final revision) type of distributor hold-down arrangement. It's same as V8 setup, uses a fork bolted to the block to bear down on that teardrop-shaped ring. Much nicer because much larger range of motion. Now all you have to do is find the right fork!

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PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2015 10:26 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
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SlantSixDan wrote:
Roger, that's the later (final revision) type of distributor hold-down arrangement. It's same as V8 setup, uses a fork bolted to the block to bear down on that teardrop-shaped ring. Much nicer because much larger range of motion. Now all you have to do is find the right fork!


Dan nailed it. The V-8 forks are ubiquitous and cheap, but aren't really compatible with the slant. The slant six forks are hard to find because most people don't know what they are. Someone with a machine shop, foundry, or 3D printer could make some money reproducing those hold down clamps.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 30, 2015 10:47 am 
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So, the three 360's I have out back won't be a good donor for the fork? HORSEHOCKEY! I guess I'll just transfer the hold-down from my points distributor.
Thanks, guys.

BTW; To all: Here is a link I found, to part of a schematic. It shows pinout and wire colors for those using the GM #19005204 coil/bracket assembly. http://lt1swap.com/1996_vortec_5.7/cmp_ ... il_5.7.gif

Roger


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 7:48 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Jul 16, 2011 7:41 pm
Posts: 106
Location: Townsend MA
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So my D100 was hei converted a couple years ago. I just really started driving it last april. It started and ran great initially, then all of a sudden about three months ago it wouldn't start. No spark, started testing stuff and it fixed itself. So I swapped the module and msd blaster with spares but a hard start persisted. Fast forward to now. If I crank the truck over I only get a spark about every ten revolutions. But if I take the distributor out and spin it by hand it sparks like crazy. The module is wired with a relay that is triggered by the original coil wiring, the coil is still powered by its original wiring. I tried running a jumper straight from the battery to the coil, no change. Voltage drops while cranking at the module and coil check out at about .3 volts. At this point I'm thinking the starter is not cranking the engine fast enough. Voltage drop on the starter ckt checks out as well at .4 volts both power and ground side so I'm hitting the junkyard for a denso starter tomorrow. I did try boosting it off my car too in case of a battery problem and I'm gonna take the battery to work tomorrow to test it.
Anyone have any other ideas of anything I may have missed?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 9:49 pm 
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Supercharged
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Check the reluctor gap in the distributor and check the distributor shaft side to side play. The shaft could be wobbling in the housing and changing the reluctor gap, leading to no spark.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 4:20 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sat Jul 16, 2011 7:41 pm
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Location: Townsend MA
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Air gap has been verified and pickup coil passes the ohm test. Shaft is tight. Distributor was a reman unit I put in at the time of the conversion (I know they suck but it was all I could find at the time)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 9:44 am 
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Location: Fircrest, WA
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I would suspect the coil and/or module are failing. These days, just because a part is new doesn't mean it works.


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