JC,

Get rid of the fuses on the start and run circuits.....
We talked about this once before.
Fuses will not handle the draw at at times and will glow and blow.......
Use fuseable link wire like the factory does and if you want to be fancy add circuit breakers, but no fuses on core circuits.......only on auxiliary circuits.

In the marine trade this is common practice.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Hey Mr. AT,
I remember that Ted, but just have not remembered to actually get the Circuit Breakers. BUT, have done the research on what to get and where to get them. NAPA is supposed to have all three types:

Type-I—auto-reset. This type breaks the circuit when overloaded, then resets quickly by itself. Used in places like headlights, where it attempts to restore power for driving safety, in-spite of an ongoing problem. This is the type Ford uses inside many of their older headlight switches. If overloaded the headlights will flicker on and off as the breaker continually cycles, but at least they hopefully don't go permanently dark at 1am in the mountains as a fuse would.

Type-II—power-cycle reset. Also known as 'modified reset' or 'non-cycling', this type breaks and stays broken until power feeding it is cycled off. Protects the circuit until the operator has an opportunity to correct the issue and cycle power, or force cycling even with the issue still present by cycling power off and on.

Type-III—manual reset. This type breaks the circuit on overload and stays broken until manually (physically) reset. It has a small button or switch to reset the breaker only when the operator determines it is safe to re-power the circuit. Better protection for sensitive components or dangerous circuits. Most of this type can also be used to disable good circuits as a 'switch' and circuit breaker in-one.



Lorrie seems to be running really well right now, but am going to see if y the Type II units can be ordered, and will pick them up next time we go to Livingston.

As an aside, Ms. American 3.14159, the only 1964 Ford Galaxie 500, Four-Door, Hard-Top, Fast-Back, Police Interceptor that Google finds on the whole World Wide Web is sitting up on Jack Stands in need of a complete Front Suspension Rebuild. Thus Lorrie has become the daily driver here. She seems to be doing pretty well.

The FBO Systems VR1 Electronic Voltage Regulator fritzed a few weeks back, but that has all been remedied including FBO sending me a replacement unit for the cost of shipping it.

Anyway, how have you been doing? Hope you are well.

JC

_________________
Lorrie Van Haul - 1967 Dodge - P200 Post Office Vehicle - 225 Slant Six - Torqueflite A727 Automatic Transmission - Right Hand Drive Steering - Big Three HEI System - Frantz Oil Cleaner System - Bendix Stromberg Model W Carburetor

JC,

Still alive and kicking.....too many hours at work though!

I have a long list of projects for the Dart and summer is going by way to fast! The last fun thing I tried was an air oil separator. There are pictures of the install on the red link below. I have to drain out the excess oil every week as it will get about 1/3 full per tank of gas or 300 miles. The engine runs much smoother not having all this extra blow by coating the intake and intake valves. (This is my $100 barn find engine that I brought back from the dead after sitting 10 years with over 200,000 miles on it) I have been running it 4 years now.

Need to get some paint on a few spots before the rain comes.

DI hooked me up with a Oregon 791 cam for my 9.5 to 1 engine. That should be fun......

_________________
Aggressive Ted



http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger





74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG