Well Just cause a Gauge has numbers on it does not mean it right either!
But I know whatcha are sayin!
Greg
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| temperature sender unit https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=57413 |
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| Author: | crickhollow [ Wed Apr 01, 2015 2:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | temperature sender unit |
Where can I source a temperature sender unit for my 61 Valiant? I believe they are different to those used in later slants. Also, when disconnecting the battery to work on the car, why do you disconnect the negative lead (and not the positive lead)? Thanks |
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| Author: | DusterIdiot [ Wed Apr 01, 2015 6:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | It's... |
Quote: Also, when disconnecting the battery to work on the car, why do you disconnect the negative lead (and not the positive lead)?
The negative lead grounds the block and car body...if you are leaning over the fender and become grounded to the body/the path of least resistance (think summer in a sweaty T-shirt...) and pull the positive cable you can get shocked...if you pull the negative first it breaks this possible path and then you can pull the positive cable next.... |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Wed Apr 01, 2015 9:24 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
A car battery cannot and will not shock you, even if you step out of a bathtub full of saltwater and immediately touch the positive and negative posts (or lean over it with a sweaty shirt. You disconnect the negative cable first (always) because that way the one and only potential for a disaster is if you happen to connect the positive and negative battery terminals to each other, which is not likely to happen. If you were to disconnect the positive cable first, anything metal the other end of the wrench touches while it's on the positive cable will result in heat, sparks and fire. If the goal is just to kill the power to the car so you can work on the electrics, there's no reason to remove both cables (as if you were removing the battery from the car) so you stop after removing the negative cable. Temperature sender is same '60-'63, then changes for '64. Still a current item in the Standard and NAPA Echlin lines. |
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| Author: | crickhollow [ Wed Apr 01, 2015 3:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I have collected a number of temperature sender units over the years, how can I tell the difference between the early and later ones? Thanks. |
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| Author: | AMP762 [ Thu Apr 02, 2015 5:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
A car battery cannot and will not shock you, even if you step out of a bathtub full of saltwater and immediately touch the positive and negative posts (or lean over it with a sweaty shirt. I respectfully disagree sir.I have been shocked more than once by laying a sweaty arm across a battery. |
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| Author: | matv91 [ Thu Apr 02, 2015 6:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
In industry, 30 volts is generally considered to be a conservative threshold value for dangerous voltage. The cautious person should regard any voltage above 30 volts as threatening, not relying on normal body resistance for protection against shock. That word normal is a gray area. Sweat could lower body resistance?? A long time ago on a project is was necessary to run power along a fence. Cow barn yard cows in direct contact with wet earth. Used step down transformer to lower volts to 18 well under 30 volt safety margin. Back up to normal voltage after barn yard. Now this low voltage does not mean that you are not going to feel some thing if contact is made. A tingle as opposed to a life threating schock. 12 volts pretty low . I am with Dan on this one. |
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| Author: | matv91 [ Thu Apr 02, 2015 7:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_3/4.html |
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| Author: | SlantSixDan [ Thu Apr 02, 2015 7:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The '60-'63 sender with the flat slide-on terminal has the following specs: Thread Size: 1/4"-18 NPT 12.5Ω @ 220°F The '64-up sender with the round push-on terminal has the following specs: Thread Size: 1/8"-27 NPT 17.1Ω @ 220°F |
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| Author: | crickhollow [ Fri Apr 03, 2015 3:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
What do you mean by 12.5 ohm at 220 centigrade? If I measure the resitance of the sender unit should it read 12.5 ohms (for the early Valiants)? Thanks |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Fri Apr 03, 2015 4:58 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
yes 220 F not 220 C |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Fri Apr 26, 2019 4:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: temperature sender unit |
So is there a different part # for the gauge on the 63 dart vs the 64 dart? If the sender is a different resistance will the gauge somehow read different if a 60-63 gauge is used with a 64 and newer sender? Greg |
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| Author: | THOR [ Tue May 07, 2019 12:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: temperature sender unit |
Greg Ondayko wrote: So is there a different part # for the gauge on the 63 dart vs the 64 dart? If the sender is a different resistance will the gauge somehow read different if a 60-63 gauge is used with a 64 and newer sender? Greg Correct. I forget which direction it will throw the gauge off, but it certainly won't read correctly; not that I ever trusted a gauge without numbers on it anyways. ~THOR~ |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Tue May 07, 2019 3:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: temperature sender unit |
Well Just cause a Gauge has numbers on it does not mean it right either! But I know whatcha are sayin! Greg |
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| Author: | THOR [ Tue May 07, 2019 3:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: temperature sender unit |
Greg Ondayko wrote: Well Just cause a Gauge has numbers on it does not mean it right either! But I know whatcha are sayin! Greg Oh, been there done that too   ~THOR~ |
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