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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 3:43 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 10:23 am
Posts: 1322
Location: N. Ga.
Car Model: 64 Valiant
At 1", your almost an 1/8" off on your reading. You need to recheck it before you go much farther.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2013 9:05 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:21 pm
Posts: 527
Car Model:
You are surely right. We need to re-measure it tomorrow, and will.

Thanks for the help!!!!

Bill in Conway, Arkansas

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 10:20 pm 
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Site Admin
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7403
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
I talked to Joe Panek yesterday. He has a boost retard system he came up with for the slant six. Admittedly for a Mag. He's sending me some info on it. This is fully mechanical if I understood him correctly. I'll keep you posted.

Apparently, the Mag setup he built will not fit an early A. Not sure where that leaves us, but an electronic pickup cap is a lot smaller than the big mag caps. Not sure if the profile was the Vertec or something else.

CJ

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 Post subject: boost-retard
PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 11:15 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:21 pm
Posts: 527
Car Model:
That's good news! Keep us posted on future developments, for sure!

Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2013 7:17 pm 
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Site Admin
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7403
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Got the package. Didn't go into detail about the boost retard slant dizzy. I'll call him next week and see if I can get some more info.

You can contact him directly if you wish. Roto-Faze. (310) 325-8844
I'm not sure if he still has the slant mag on the shelf. Give Joe Panek a call and talk to him about it. Feel free to drop my name and tell him your interested in building a boost retard system.

What he sent me was his product catalog. Not specific to the slant.

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 9:06 pm 
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Site Admin
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7403
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
I'm going to try tomorrow. Again. Spent the day in a basement with no cell reception. Didn't get lunch until three thirty. Tomorrow, I'll be mainly on ground floors playing with servers, so may be able to get in contact with Joe.

Have you had a chance to call him yet?

CJ

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 9:30 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Apr 27, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 745
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i have not called him. i have an early a so it wouldnt do me any good.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c
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 Post subject: Manual retard
PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2014 11:01 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Fri Aug 29, 2014 1:14 am
Posts: 6
Location: Queensland Australia
Car Model:
I'm in the same boat as you limited resources. I am using a dual vacuum/advance unit mounted on my dissuade wasn't an easy fit but we'll worth the effort. The unit has 10 degs advance & 10 degs retard, sits in a neutral position when the engines not running. I'm running the engine at 18degs max under boost, having the vacuum function available has it's benefits the engine runs much cooler and smoother with advance at cruise, my timing setup is this 23degs btdc at idle (vacuum disconnected) plus 5degs centrifical advance with light spring (timing is all in by 2000rpm that's 28 degs plus 10degs vacuum advance on cruise ( this vacuum signal MUST come from the timed port on the carburator, the boost retard signal must come from the hat or manifold( whatever sees boost first. You can achieve this by putting a tee piece in the vacuum signal hose, you MUST use a check valve( one way valve between the tee and the boost signal source this is so the engine dose not see vacuum at idle. From cruise to boost you now have 20degs ignition retard back to 18degs. It works well in my application and I'm happy with the results.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 12:03 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2013 12:50 pm
Posts: 211
Location: Bay Area, California
Car Model:
Junior, I tried getting the Volvo unit off the other distributor I have, and I can say the previous tinkerer cut half the arm off the volvo pod, and half the arm off the mopar one, and then welded the arms together so the pod would latch onto the upper plate the way the stock one does. The bracket that mounts the pod to the distributor is bent in slightly - likely the volvo dizzy has a larger circumference. There is also a single hole drilled between two mount holes on one side, due to the mopar dizzy having two phillips head machine screws holding it down, and the volvo unit likely having had 3.

With doing some research, the pod you're looking for is from a VOLVO 240T.

It's a Bosch unit #0237003009 and was for late 70s to early 80s car.

That one looks exactly like the one i have. If you go that route, I'll open this dizzy and show you how it's mounted...

Just make sure the pod has two nipples on it. One faces the dizzy, the other faces at an angle up and away.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 6:51 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Apr 27, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 745
Car Model:
sweet. ill definitely be looking into that in the future.


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