Well I figured since I have 2 slant sixes in my garage (one in the truck and one on an engine stand that I bought last year), I figured since I'm slowly accumulating turbo parts, I might as well get one of them rebuilt. I was talking to a friend of mine that just started up his own business and he said he's rebuilt engines before and asked if I was still planning on boosting it, and I said yes. He said I'll need forged pistons and better rods because some cast pistons don't react well to boost, and said I'll need a better cam and stronger valve springs.

Are these things he's saying correct for slant sixes? Because as far as I can tell, a lot of people, if not most, throw turbos on completely stock engines with no cam, spring or internal upgrades. Is any of it necessary? Could I get away with a complete stock rebuild or would it be wise to look into specific parts to make the build stronger for the boost? I'm looking to run 10psi max on the streets for cruising and if/when I go to the track, maybe dial it in for 15psi max. I just want a fun driver. It will be a show truck when I get the time and money to put into body work and repaint so I want the engine to be built with the same quality as the rest of the truck will be. Thanks guys, lots of knowledge here and have already learned a lot!

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-Brodie

1977 Dodge D100 stepside, slant six/3 on the tree
2002 Chrysler 300M Special (daily driver)

Have you read this article? http://www.slantsix.org/articles/turbo- ... rticle.htm
He had 210,000 miles on his engine.

Dave

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86 Miser 170,000+
2 1/4" exhaust
Holley 1920 #55
HEI MSD BLaster 2
17.8 mpg

I know, but the truck is going to be a show truck and I want it to run as good as it looks, and I want to do things right the first time and not turn around and say "Gosh, I wish I would have done this, that and the other thing". I'm guessing I can get by just fine with a pure stock rebuild without needing to upgrade the cam and such, but are there any "weak" spots in the engine that could benefit from upgraded parts so the turbo doesn't break stuff?

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-Brodie



1977 Dodge D100 stepside, slant six/3 on the tree

2002 Chrysler 300M Special (daily driver)

The upgrades I would make are:

Forged pistons, for reliability
ARP rod bolts, for relability
1.70"/1.44" valves with valve bowl and guide work, for significant power gains
Camshaft from Oregon Cam Grinding with a #819 intake lobe and #818 exhaust lobe 112° lobe separation angle, for power
340 valve springs if you want to rev it high, for reliability
Hardened oil pump gear on new, prepared oil pump. for reliability

Everything else can be stock replacement including the timing set. A roller chain and sprockets is a good idea if you're going to run high RPM frequently or expect to run it over 100k miles.

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Joshua

Depending on the boost level(and back pressure), the 340 springs may have to be shimmed quite a bit on the exhaust side.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

If you have a good condition/running short block already, spend your $$ on other parts than a rebuild. I have maybe 100 passes and ~15,000 miles on my 68 Dart since turbo install. 170k miles on the engine - stock rebuild 0.030" over cast pistons in 1989. 5500 RPM max. No engine damage at 9.5 psi and up to 330-340 crank HP. I did blow one head gasket at 6000 miles, but had a small head gasket that hung into the comb chamber. Better to spend the time/effort on megasquirt EFI for easy tuning to get the mixture right and not melt anything. Or, spend it on a good flowing head so you can make more power without a ton of boost. You will want methanol/water injection or an intercooler. I just run the injection but no intercooler. 3500 lb car has run 14.27 @ 100 MPH and driven coast to coast with this setup.

Disclaimer: I will say that I spent a lot of time on building/tuning this combo, so do not expect instant gratification. If you get greedy or build/tune too fast you will likely break parts.

My 2 cents...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

And don't forget to re-size the rods after they are installed!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I put new Mopar Performance rod bolts in my build and had the rods resized, in 1989. ARP bolts and resizing is what I would do now.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hell, I figured I could even get away with a bottom end rebuild (replace all bearings, ARP rod bolts, and re-ring the pistons. Not sure if I should do anything to the head. Im just wanting to do the minimum to assure that the engine is solid enough for a low-boost application. I'll have to price out rebuild kits and see what kind of $$$ I'm looking at.

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-Brodie



1977 Dodge D100 stepside, slant six/3 on the tree

2002 Chrysler 300M Special (daily driver)

And what exactly is "re-sizing the rods"?

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-Brodie



1977 Dodge D100 stepside, slant six/3 on the tree

2002 Chrysler 300M Special (daily driver)

To resize the rods, the parting faces of the big end of the rod are machined, which makes the big end bore smaller.
The big end is then honed back to standard size,

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Richard (aka Fingers)