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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 5:12 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:31 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Sk, Canada
Car Model:
Yeah I have not bought or made a carb hat yet. so not sure how the inlet will be setup.
If I make one I could maybe add in a diverter to help direct it to the 2bbl's. as the other half of the carb is just flat anyways...
Was thinking of building one.

_________________
1967 Dodge Dart GT Convertible, Slant Six. (Currently in Turbo build)
1972 Dodge Demon 340 4 spd
1978 D100 (To be 5.7 Hemi Swap)
1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 340 4spd. (In restore mode)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 1:07 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:31 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Sk, Canada
Car Model:
So I'm back at the car again!
I'm in the process of wiring all the gauges I got.
For boost press, should I be running everything that requires a boost signal, from the turbo or manifold?
Such as, fuel regulator & boost gauge?

_________________
1967 Dodge Dart GT Convertible, Slant Six. (Currently in Turbo build)

1972 Dodge Demon 340 4 spd

1978 D100 (To be 5.7 Hemi Swap)

1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 340 4spd. (In restore mode)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 11, 2016 1:52 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Apr 27, 2007 5:50 pm
Posts: 745
Car Model:
i run my regulator from the carb hat. boost controller from the cold side turbo housing and boost gauge from the manifold.


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 Post subject: Which to where
PostPosted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 7:00 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2012 3:54 pm
Posts: 349
Location: Terre Haute IN
Car Model:
I ran the boos/vac to the mani so it sees both, same as wastegate.
The fuel reg goes to the hat so that it only sees boost to raise fuel pressure, otherwise when it sees vacuum it messes with things. And the boost controller i havent used.

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225, Offenhauser, Holley 350, A833OD, 3:55, GM HEI,99 Durango starter
BOOSTED! WH1C, BIG FMIC, 10#
Operation Noble Eagle 03-05
Operation Iraqi Freedom 05-07
Operation Enduring Freedom 12- 13


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 1:17 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 794
Location: clearwater florida
Car Model:
My regulator is plumbed in right before the carb hat. Boost gauge is plumbed to the intake manifold and wastegate is plumbed to cold side compressor fitting on the turbo on my setup

Kev

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2016 5:41 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:31 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Sk, Canada
Car Model:
Awesome, thanks Guys. Sounds like everyone is on the same page.
I will do the same myself!

_________________
1967 Dodge Dart GT Convertible, Slant Six. (Currently in Turbo build)

1972 Dodge Demon 340 4 spd

1978 D100 (To be 5.7 Hemi Swap)

1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 340 4spd. (In restore mode)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2016 4:12 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:31 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Sk, Canada
Car Model:
So back to the carb hat.
I was able to find some aluminum pipe that was the perfect size to fit around the carb.
Now for the inlet, I thought plumbing it on the side as shown would look better as well as swirl the air towards the front of the 2bbl carb.
Anyone see a downside to this design?
Image
Image

_________________
1967 Dodge Dart GT Convertible, Slant Six. (Currently in Turbo build)

1972 Dodge Demon 340 4 spd

1978 D100 (To be 5.7 Hemi Swap)

1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 340 4spd. (In restore mode)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 8:34 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 794
Location: clearwater florida
Car Model:
I would just buy a carb hat the aero would be much better in a formed hat specially a serious hat like extreme velocity. Love mine!
If your making one to save money or just to show enginuity then go for it! I don't see a problem with your swirl idea I would think it would work fine.

Kevin

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 8:43 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7834
Location: Portland-ish
Car Model: Fiat 500e
I would Not swirl the air if you want the carburetor to function properly. The air needs to slow down and turn. If the air is swirling around the boosters they will not work correctly. I would expand the pipe to an oval and bring that into the large pipe opposite the carburetor venturis to slow the air and give it room to turn.

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Joshua


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 1:30 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:31 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Sk, Canada
Car Model:
1974duster kev wrote:
If your making one to save money or just to show enginuity then go for it!


Yes to Both!
The Material cost me nothing, just my time.


Joshie225 wrote:
I would Not swirl the air if you want the carburetor to function properly. The air needs to slow down and turn. If the air is swirling around the boosters they will not work correctly. I would expand the pipe to an oval and bring that into the large pipe opposite the carburetor venturis to slow the air and give it room to turn.


I hear what your saying.
So with what I have so far, I could do as you suggest;
make the opening of the hat towards the back of the motor, and have the piping come around the hat as almost a 90* towards the front again. So its pushing the air towards the front of the carb/venturis. That makes sense to me, just more fab work.

OR another idea I was thinking...
Keep what I have, and add a flat plate in the hat, to block the air from coming around again where the air enters the hat. If that makes sense... does in my head.
I like the look of this better, but doesn't mean its the best option.

_________________
1967 Dodge Dart GT Convertible, Slant Six. (Currently in Turbo build)

1972 Dodge Demon 340 4 spd

1978 D100 (To be 5.7 Hemi Swap)

1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 340 4spd. (In restore mode)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2016 8:37 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:31 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Sk, Canada
Car Model:
I was able to get some work done on the Carb tonight.
Wanted to get the hole drilled for the BRPV.
But when looking at the ones other have done, and all Holley carbs from what I can tell, Its an easy task.
This Demon carb has a shoulder, that then slopes down on an angle, where I'm supposed to drill... Not likely!!
So I was lucky enough to meet a guy not that long ago, who is close by and has a mill!!
There is no way I could have confidently done this myself with a drill or even a drill press.
We used a 1/8" bit to go all the way through. Counter sunk the hole with a 3/16" and found some oil copper 1/8" oil line that fit perfectly!
Worked awesome, and just needs some JB Weld to finish up that portion.
Next would be making the cap for the PV, to reverse the spring, and buying a mill!
Think I would mill everything.

Image
Image
Image

_________________
1967 Dodge Dart GT Convertible, Slant Six. (Currently in Turbo build)

1972 Dodge Demon 340 4 spd

1978 D100 (To be 5.7 Hemi Swap)

1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 340 4spd. (In restore mode)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 6:41 pm 
Offline
3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:31 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Sk, Canada
Car Model:
So after lots of thinking and searching the web for other carb hat ideas.
I think I'll try and go the route Joshie225 had suggested, forcing the air straight into the Venturi's

So I did some mocking up for the carb hat, for an Idea I thought might work.
Took a piece of 5" pipe, cut down to 1.75" high.
And cut some 2.5" pipe into wedges at 11.25*.
From the photo, this is what I was thinking of doing...
(As of writing this, I think photobucket is having some issues with their site, photos don't seem to be loading. Here is the link to the Library for the interm, that does seem to work: http://s1039.photobucket.com/user/mopar_340/library/?sort=3&page=1)
Image

And looking down from the top, the air would come down, straight into the venturi's.
Image

The only problem I ran into with this design, is the hood would not close.
BUT, If I made the 5" ring shorter to 1" high and kept the 2.5" pipe the same, it would clear.

Since I'm running a 2bbl, I only need to worry about the air coming in the front section of the hat. I would prob even add in a flat plate just behind the choke horn so all the air is completely directed to the front.

My only worry is, that the 2.5" pipe that's over top the Venturi's, is literally only 1.75" above them, and only catching half of each.
Not sure if this will cause any issues...

_________________
1967 Dodge Dart GT Convertible, Slant Six. (Currently in Turbo build)

1972 Dodge Demon 340 4 spd

1978 D100 (To be 5.7 Hemi Swap)

1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 340 4spd. (In restore mode)


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 Post subject: why not use these?
PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 8:16 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2125
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I use these on my two barrels: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-98499/overview/

they fit a stock 5 1/8" mount and are pretty low profile

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 8:18 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2125
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I have one of these you can buy for really cheap...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-9849/overview/

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 8:19 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2011 11:07 am
Posts: 2125
Location: SF Bay Area
Car Model: 67 dart 2 door hardtop
I have two of them, will sell singly or together for cheap, I'm not using them.

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2


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