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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 5:13 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Car Model*: 1965 Plymouth Belvedere I
Remove the rear window regulators, and fix the windows in the up position. This will drop 8-10 lbs. Cut the dust shield off the front shocks (factory style shock) will drop a pound per shock.
Jus sayin......

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 5:55 pm 
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Quote:
Remove the rear window regulators, and fix the windows in the up position.


Already done! :D :D

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 8:40 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Dang, can't git nuttin on you.
Kudos.

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 Post subject: Master Cylinder?
PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2019 3:37 pm 
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Put the new M/C in and plumbed it up. Just bled the brakes tonight and the front wheels seem to be locked up? Any great idea what I may have done wrong?? :D

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 Post subject: Re: Master Cylinder?
PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2019 3:52 pm 
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Rick Covalt wrote:
Put the new M/C in and plumbed it up. Just bled the brakes tonight and the front wheels seem to be locked up? Any great idea what I may have done wrong?? :D

Make sure the push rod, has a small amount of free play to the MC piston. Check by loosening up the MC mounting bolts about 1/2 inch, and see if the brakes release.
PS: You did put a rubber gromet on the pushrod, right?

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2019 4:06 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Right MC? It might be bad.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2019 6:01 pm 
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Quote:
You did put a rubber gromet on the pushrod, right?

Yes
Quote:
Make sure the push rod, has a small amount of free play to the MC piston
.
Will check! thanks

Quote:
Right MC?

No not for a 65 Valiant!! :D :D
I can't remember what I looked it up for. It was what someone on here recommended to use.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 16, 2019 1:53 am 
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I always make (beware safety!) or buy an adjustable pushrod so I can set freeplay and pedal height.

Lou

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 16, 2019 12:44 pm 
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New adjustable push rod, when bolted directly to the pedal was too thick just ahead of the heim joint. When you depressed the pedal the side of the heim joint would hit the pedal arm and bind. This would then hold the pedal down a little and not release the brakes. Put a couple washers between the heim joint and the pedal and the problem was solved.

Thanks for the help. :D :D

As a side note this rod is only listed for 66 and up from Dr. Diff

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 16, 2019 2:32 pm 
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Rick Covalt wrote:

As a side note this rod is only listed for 66 and up from Dr. Diff


I'm thinking that might be a misprint. As far as I know 63-66 are the same MC and pedal assy. 67 was the change year.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2019 12:44 pm 
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Quote:
I'm thinking that might be a misprint. As far as I know 63-66 are the same MC and pedal assy. 67 was the change year.

I think you are right Charlie.

I just weighed a 65 hood that I had here in the garage.It weighed 55#. The lift off fiberglass one is 13#.That would be 42 pounds off the nose of the car! That would have to help some. But at $400 plus shipping, it will probably wait for a while. But it got me to thinking. How much weight do you think I could take out from under the metal hood and still keep it in one piece. I was looking at it and it looks like you could eliminate a lot of the bracing and loose 10-15 pounds, maybe more. I'd remove my springs but still leave enough metal around the mounts to use them as a rear pivot. Remove the hood latch and a lot of the metal up front around the latch and install pins.( Since I apparently don't know how to latch it anyway!) Just thinking out load. A blacked out hood wouldn't look terrible in my mind?

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2019 1:00 pm 
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Be careful about how much bracing you cut, especially if you leave the stock springs on. It will fold in half like a suitcase.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2019 1:51 pm 
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Car Model*: 1965 Plymouth Belvedere I
I once did a hood for a 70 Dart Swinger. I took the bracing off the stock factory hood (weighed in at 60 lbs) and then used the metal bracing as a mold for a fiberglass replacement. I cut down some Styrofoam blocks to fit inside the fiberglass brace and then just glassed the entire thing to the bottom of the steel hood skin. I took out the hood springs and just used an aluminum pole to hold the hood up. I took all the hood latch stuff out as well and used hood pins to hold the front of the hood down. I took 25 pounds off the stock hood and never had any issues with it at the track. It never bowed or anything. Granted, it was a lot of work for a 25 lb savings, but it was pretty inexpensive to do. That was a low buck big block bracket car. I also took the front bumper off and used it as a 'mold' to make my own fiberglass bumper. That turned out pretty nice and saved some weight as well, but I don't recall the weight difference. All this was back in the eighties, when I lots of time and little money.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 17, 2019 4:49 pm 
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Car Model*: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Quote:
especially if you leave the stock springs on


No, I would take all the springs off and just have a hinge at the back to hold it in place. I'd use a hood prop to hold it open.
Thanks!! :D :D

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 6:05 am 
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I bet the stock hood without the bracing with the hinges etc will be pretty flimsy.

Just work a few more hours at RC Engines then you'll have that $400 you need for the 'glass hood.

Props are nice unitl you are working on your car on a windy day then the wind takes your hood and smashes it into your windscreen. unless you get a prop that holds onto the hood in both +x and -X

Pin hoods can get set on the ground which make them less prone to wind but more prone to getting stepped on.

Greg

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