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PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 2:14 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 23780
Location: North America
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$85/pair.

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Last edited by SlantSixDan on Wed Nov 30, 2011 10:32 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 5:22 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Sep 30, 2006 5:46 pm
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Location: Lancaster, Pa
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I'd love to see some pics of them lenses installed! :wink:

Russ


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:14 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 7:39 pm
Posts: 904
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SlantSixDan wrote:
...... and Valiant-shaped Valiants.


*head spinning*
*head spinning*



(I know what you mean, I just never thought that sentence would ever exist)


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:45 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Carrollton, TX
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My Swinger is a '72. I think I'll have him make a pair for me (I, too, prefer the amber turn signal indicators). Dan, can you elaborate on the wiring change to make these work properly?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 1:13 pm 
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Here's how to set it up the way the Australian-market cars were wired from the factory, so you can have amber rear turn signals (which do a better job than red ones of preventing you being hit in traffic) without having to add any new lamps to the vehicle. I have my truck set up this way, and it works great:

Cut the wire we'll call "1" that runs from the brake lamp switch "A" to the turn signal switch "B".

Your existing brake lamp wires at that point become your rear turn signal (only) wires.

Run a new wire from the brake switch "A" side of the cut wire "1", to the rear of the vehicle to power the brake lamps.

Cut the reversing lamp wire "2" downstream of the reversing lamp switch "C" ("downstream" means between the reverse lamp switch and the reverse lamps), and connect the reverse lamp switch "C" side of the wire "2" to the turn signal switch side "B" of the cut wire "1".

Now you've got some wire-switching to do at the back of the car.

The wire that formerly fed the bright (brake/turn) filament in your outboard red lamps now feeds your rear turn/reverse lamps, so move that wire to the inboard socket, on each side of the car.

Connect one leg of your new brake lamp wire (which you ran from brake lamp switch to rear of car in the third step, above) to the outboard bright-filament socket contact, on each side of the car.

The original wires that fed the reversing lamps will not be used.

Result of this setup:

Brake lamps are both on with foot on brake, off with foot off brake, regardless of turn signal lever position.

Shift to "Reverse" while not signalling any turn: Both rear turn/reverse lights come on solid bright amber. Red brake lamps continue working normally.

Signal for a right turn in any gear but "Reverse", and the right turn/reverse lamp flashes bright amber. Left turn/reverse lamp remains unlit.

Signal for a right turn in "Reverse" gear, and the right turn/reverse lamp flashes bright amber while the left turn/reverse light burns solid bright amber.

Operation of the front turn signals is not changed, they keep working as they always have.

The amber signals are better-performing and safer—not only as turn signals themselves, but it's known/shown that following drivers consistently react quicker and more accurately to the brake lamps when the turn signals are separate and amber (rather than separate and red, or red combined w/brake lamps).

The brake lights and turn signals can be made 45% brighter; you can get the required bulbs (which have nice nickel-plate bases that will not corrode and seize in the sockets) through the Honda car parts system. Local dealer prices are usually ridiculous; better online. The single-filament variety (replacing 7506, 1156, 1141, 1076, P21W, or P25-1) is this one, and the dual-filament variety (replacing 7528, 1157, 1034, 2057, 2357, P21/5W, or P25-2) is this one.

You can see the combination turn/reverse lamps on my (now-sold) truck wired up this way in this short YouTube video (flash rate looks uneven because of YouTube's video compression; in reality it was quite steady)

And, divorcing the rear turns from the brake lamps makes it very easy to add a 3rd brake light to supplement the relatively small and dim brake/tail lights on many of our cars.

If you've done a lens swap that has eliminated the factory red rear-facing reflectors, you will need to add new ones. I recommend the Peterson B492R peel-and-stick units which can be affixed to the vertical "wall" that remains visible just under the lip of the trunk lid above the top of the rear bumper. You can line these up 2 per side, 3 per side, whatever you want. Peterson supplies them only in 100-packs, but they're pretty good if you call and beg for six of 'em (or at least they'll tell you who in your area buys the 100-packs so you can go bum or buy 6!)

Also see this post.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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