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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 4:03 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Hi I am attempting to fix a leak at an intake port on my 1973 SL6 225. I replaced the gasket following Dan and Doug's excellent guidance in the Articles section of the site. I used the MS16030 gasket with no sealant, this leaked. I was next going to try the MR Gasket 320 recommendation the article but this is no longer made so my question is has anyone every successfully tried two gaskets? What are the pros and cons of this? Thanks.

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Bruce
'73 Ply Scamp 225 1bbl


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 Post subject: Say What???
PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 5:51 am 
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Quote:
I was next going to try the MR Gasket 320 recommendation the article but this is no longer made


They still do... ask for a 320G...

If the 'stocker' gasket didn't work I would check the mating surfaces with a straightedge and feeler gauge, and probably have the intake/exhaust stack 'milled' to get it flat again....




-D.Idiot


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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 5:58 am 
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Actually, Mr Gasket lists both as discontinued.

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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 8:11 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

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Try a carbon fiber gasket, Australian or Remflex, if you want to buy American. The Aussie gasket sealed a header leak that had been plaguing me for years. :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 8:23 am 
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Good heads-up; there are much better gaskets available now than when that article was written, and the Mr. Gasket 320G has apparently been discontinued. good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and the intake-to-exhaust (heat riser/hotbox) junctions. Remflex also make good gaskets along similar lines.

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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 8:54 am 
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..If the 'stocker' gasket didn't work I would check the mating (manifold) surfaces with a straightedge and feeler gauge, and probably have the intake/exhaust stack 'milled' to get it flat again....


If the manifold surfaces are not flat, no type or amount of gaskets will hold a seal for long.
DD


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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 3:48 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Thanks everyone I'll check out the fit of the manifold and be sure it's flat and look into the gaskets from GPRS.

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Bruce

'73 Ply Scamp 225 1bbl


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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2008 3:59 pm 
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Don't be afraid to try the RemFlex gaskets. www.remflex.com
They will conform very well if there is some mismatch and are very thick.
Do not over torque!

PN RF6008 -- Mopar 225ci ('60-'83) 1/set

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2008 1:23 pm 
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Doc wrote:
Quote:
..If the 'stocker' gasket didn't work I would check the mating (manifold) surfaces with a straightedge and feeler gauge, and probably have the intake/exhaust stack 'milled' to get it flat again....


If the manifold surfaces are not flat, no type or amount of gaskets will hold a seal for long.
DD


I'll second that. After a mill job even a cheapo fel-pro will work..


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PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 8:38 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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I'm getting ready to put my remflex gasket on. So what is the recommended torque setting. I've heard as low as 5 ftlbs. If this is true do I need to put on some type of loctite and what would stand up to the heat...

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 Post subject: Remflex gaskets
PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 11:41 am 
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I installed a new set of gaskets last weekend. I made a cardinal mistake of re-torquing after a few heat cycles like you usually would........ :oops:

I called RemFlex and told them what I did and got the lecture about cutting the torque in half and they sent me a new set of gaskets next day for free and told me to share my experience. They also sent a sample of some of the material to test. The failure occurred over 5 months running, since Christmas. The stove box gasket and pipe flange gasket I had tightened with a 6" box end wrench. Those joints were perfect since I really couldn't over torque them with a wrench that size!

My aluminum one barrel manifold says to torque to 10 ft pounds. So I bought a new torque wrench and set it at 5 pounds and torqued it down with three passes around to make sure I did not crush the gasket. I used Dorman brass nuts since they don't rust on and are a little under sized so they stay put well.
I used the the special castleated nuts on each end. The job came out perfect and the gasket is not crushed or split but nearly full thickness.

Another point of consideration is to be sure the metal is super clean and shinny. The better/cleaner the surface the better bond you get with the gasket material. It actually embeds into the metal.

So the lesson learned is do not crush or split the gasket by over torquing and do not retorque once it has been heat cycled. :D

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Aggressive Ted



http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger





74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 12:07 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Hi Ted,

On the Remflex, you are ordering direct from them by the sound of it. I looked at their site and the gasket is listed at $46.99. Is that what you actually end up paying for it? Sorry to be such a nosey parker, but wondered as I saw the same part no. listed with Amazon of all places for $31.40 when viewed through PriceGrabber.

Neither one shows it being a set in the picture at least although the Remflex site says "set" in the part no line description. Does it for sure come with the small box gasket?

Thanks for your help.

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Will work for roast chicken crisps!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 1:39 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Black Diamond, WA
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MoparBrit,

Hey that's why we are all on here, to share. :D

No, I have never paid that much. I have our local Black Diamond Auto Parts store order them and they sell them for $35.
Yes, it includes the stove box gasket.
The other one you should get is for the pipe joint. I am running 2.25" pipe so the two sets that you need are #6006 and #6008. There are (2) pipe flange gaskets in the package.

These gaskets are great in that they are so thick and can absorb alot of irregularities. My son used them on his race car headers. They are fine after a year now, no leaks and they still look great! The old ones would shrink and crack in about 6 months. He uses lots of NOS. :D :D :D

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Aggressive Ted



http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger





74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


Last edited by Aggressive Ted on Wed May 21, 2008 1:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2008 1:44 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2007 2:37 pm
Posts: 105
Location: Rio Rancho, NM
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Thanks for the info and numbers. No local supplier anywhere near here so going to have to order them online so that's why I asked. Would not have imagined Amazon having them, but there you go.

Will pick up the exhaust gaskets as well. Don't have a 2.25 yet, but want to get one when budget allows. Do have a Super Six set up to go on once I've got this timing and 1920 tweaked to compare too.

Thanks again. Helpful as ever.

Cheers

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From Mopars to classic Minis and back to Mopars in 19 years flat!



Will work for roast chicken crisps!!


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