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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:15 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:08 pm
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Location: North Carolina
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New to this forum. Hope I can get some advice here............

I've got a Holley 1 barrel that's giving me problems. It's on a '64 Dart GT, 225 Slant.
This is the second rebuilt carb from the auto parts store and they're both acting the same.
It has a rough idle and black smoke from the exhaust.
I tried turning in the air/fuel mixture screw but it has no effect.
I checked the float level and it's good.
I've never worked on a Holley carb before but now I have no choice.

Thanks in advance for any help.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:33 pm 
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Welcome on the board! Parts store "remanufactured" carburetors are usually junk...doesn't matter how many you buy, the car'll likely never run well with it. See this thread for discussion of the matter.

Did you keep your car's original carburetor, or did you hand it in when you bought the first "remanufactured" carb?

You do have options; you needn't necessarily wind up with a Holley carb. In '64 the Slant-6 cars got both Holley 1920 and Carter BBS carbs from the factory (according to what came to hand at any given time at any given assembly plant).

BUT, before you change the carb again, check to make sure the problem isn't coming from somewhere else. If your fuel pump has a ruptured diaphragm, it'll squirt gasoline into the crankcase, and this gas will be sucked into the intake via the PCV valve, causing a rich mixture no matter how you adjust the carb. So pull the dipstick and smell it; if the oil level is overfull and smells of gasoline, you've found the likely cause of the problem; change the fuel pump and the oil and have another go.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:41 pm 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
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Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Like Dan said, reman carbs are usually bad news. The reman companies rip them apart (literally rip.. I've seen stripped threads and broken pieces galore). The black smoke could be from the diaphragm in the fuel pump, Ive seen that before too, but it is also possible that the idle circuit in the carb is damaged, allowing excess fuel past the main jet and into the carb.

Troubleshooting with a reman carb is usually a fools errand, so definitely check out that fuel pump, and go from there.

~THOR~

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 4:44 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:08 pm
Posts: 41
Location: North Carolina
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Thanks for the replies.
The 225 was just recently installed in the 64 Dart.
During the swap I put on a new fuel pump.

I did turn in the original carb for a core.
I regret that now...............


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:17 pm 
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Oh, I hate how we all have to go through that "Oops, I shouldn't have done that" in order to learn. :-( How long ago did you give them your original carb? If there's any chance they might still have it in back, it will probably be worth your while to go buy it back from them. I have a good Carter BBS that'd work well on your '64 if you were to pick up a small rod-to-cable linkage adaptor piece (Doc on here might have one; if you want to go that way PM him and/or put up a parts wanted ad). Please PM me if you want to talk about getting the BBS.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 6:36 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:08 pm
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Location: North Carolina
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Thanks for the reply.
I forgot to mention that the oil was changed during the swap, and I've checked it after the carb problem started.

It was my sons decision to turn in the orginal carb, I did agree with him hoping that a rebuilt would be better than the orginal.
It's been over a month since the carb was turned in for a core.
I'm not sure if I want to change the setup to a Carter, I wish it was that way orginally.

Another interesting part of all of this is that when each carb is first installed the car runs great for a short time then it loads up and starts to smoke and idle rough.

As simple as these carbs are I was hoping it would be easy to fiqure out why it's acting this way.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:06 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 4:32 pm
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Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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apairof66s wrote:
...Another interesting part of all of this is that when each carb is first installed the car runs great for a short time then it loads up and starts to smoke and idle rough.

As simple as these carbs are I was hoping it would be easy to fiqure out why it's acting this way.


Is the choke flap completly open when this happens?
DD


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2008 11:09 am 
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apairof66s wrote:
I'm not sure if I want to change the setup to a Carter


Even if it would run better overall that way...?

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 8:50 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:08 pm
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Location: North Carolina
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SlantSixDan wrote:
apairof66s wrote:
I'm not sure if I want to change the setup to a Carter


Even if it would run better overall that way...?




Right now it's a money issue.........


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 8:52 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:08 pm
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Location: North Carolina
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Doc wrote:
apairof66s wrote:
...Another interesting part of all of this is that when each carb is first installed the car runs great for a short time then it loads up and starts to smoke and idle rough.

As simple as these carbs are I was hoping it would be easy to fiqure out why it's acting this way.


Is the choke flap completly open when this happens?
DD



I really hope so. I'll double check.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 9:30 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:08 pm
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Location: North Carolina
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does anyone have a diagram for the carb ?
Could it be sent by email or usps ???????????


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 11:00 am 
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Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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Have you read this article?
DD
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/choke- ... adjust.htm


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 8:49 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:08 pm
Posts: 41
Location: North Carolina
Car Model:
Thanks for the reply.
I put the carb back on the Dart but have to get the keys, kinda forgot ! !
The slant does not have any choke set up on it.
When I do get it started i'll check the choke flap on the carb, i hope that's the problem.
I'll post again with my progress.
In the meantime i'll read the article as well.
Thx, Lee


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 12:02 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 12:08 pm
Posts: 41
Location: North Carolina
Car Model:
I started the Dart and it ran fine for a few minutes and then started to idle rough and smoke from the exhaust. It's not thick smoke but it's noticable.
While it was still idling I pulled the air filter and the choke flap was wide open. What's strange is that every time that I put the air filter back on the idle would go up for a couple of seconds. This change in idle would happen when I put the filter back on as well.
I drove it without the filter for a few minutes but it was still rough at low rpm's (under 1500) and still smoked.
We're using a cheap tach. from the auto parts store.
I double checked the oil and it's right between add & fill and does not smell like gas.
I put the filter back on (cheap auto store replacement, approx. 3in. dia.
open element style) and shut it off.
The problem is only bad when it's warmed up. I don't think it's running too hot because it never pukes out any coolant.
We're using the V8 radiator that came with the Dart and everything has been flushed, new coolant put in and a new 180 thermostat and a reman. water pump. I believe the cap is rated at 15 pounds.
The temp. gauge is original and we're connected to the slant sending unit.
The gauge reads about 2 oclock which is a little higher than i'd like to see. I haven't changed the sending unit or compared the accuracy of the gauge with another.

Something else I should mention is that when we were doing the engine install and first ran it the coil decided to puke out most of it's oil. I replaced it with a new one and the ballast resistor.
I can't remember seeing a coil doing this before. But considering it's age
maybe it was due.

Sorry about the length of the post, I hope all of this info will help to figure out what's going on.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 12:39 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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apairof66s wrote:
Something else I should mention is that when we were doing the engine install and first ran it the coil decided to puke out most of it's oil. I replaced it with a new one and the ballast resistor. I can't remember seeing a coil doing this before. But considering it's age maybe it was due.


Coils can and do fail. Are you sure you wired the coil correctly? Sometimes coil problems disguise themselves as carb problems.

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