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1980 D150 rolls into a bar with half a tank...
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DadTruck
Turbo EFI


Joined: 17 Sep 2008
Posts: 1102
Location: Indianapolis

Post subject: (Sat Mar 24, 2012 6:25 am) Reply with quote

sounds to me like you fixed it the right way..


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modvavet
2 BBL ''SuperSix''


Joined: 17 Aug 2011
Posts: 18
Location: Roanoke, VA

Post subject: (Sat Mar 24, 2012 7:01 am) Reply with quote

Haha, thanks. Someone further back on this thread or another said something about the polyethylene being hard to heat right- damn, were they right! We used a propane heating torch for the repair, and it STILL took close to an hour! That's some serious plastic! Laughing

You guys are incredibly helpful. Thank you so much!



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65Dodge100
Turbo Slant 6


Joined: 08 Dec 2007
Posts: 593

Post subject: (Sat Mar 24, 2012 7:35 am) Reply with quote

I should have thrown my idea in earlier but I’ve never tried it so I didn’t want to steer you in the wrong direction. Melting the plastic together is a good idea. I might would have drilled the holes in the ends of the crack first just in case. I’ve done this hot screwdriver trick before on other things and there is a chance it will crack again. There is also a chance it will last forever. Only time will tell.

I’m not sure what liquid tape is but I know very few things are solvent/gas proof. Closest I’ve found is Permatex Form A Gasket #2 or #2b. It’s “gas resistant” however far that goes, and it’s made for sealing - not adhesion -meaning it does not stick to the surface. And it doesn’t dry hard.

Your plastic patch is about what I was thinking (I was thinking of a thin metal patch like the side cut out from a tuna can). Maybe drill a few small holes in the tank for the sealer to ooze into - just to help hold it - and not all the way through if the plastic is thick enough.

Drill the patch full of holes for the sealer to ooze into. Put a good thick coat of the Permatex over the whole repair. Put the patch on top with about 5 small screws (one in each corner and one in the middle maybe? Whatever looks good.) but not tight enough to squeeze out the sealer.

When it dried it would be like a form fitted rubber seal between the tank and the plastic patch and the screws would keep it from ever going anywhere and maybe help hold the crack together.

Too late now and I’ve never tried it so I have no idea if it would work. I think yours is close enough except if it does get a small leak the tape might disappear. Call it “Plan B” in case you have trouble in the future.

Danny


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bigandbulky
4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''


Joined: 24 Feb 2012
Posts: 29
Location: NB Canada

Post subject: (Sat Mar 24, 2012 9:29 am) Reply with quote

I think RV waste tanks are polypropylene-polyethelnene, and there is a spical adhesive used to repair them. I will check monday and see.



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modvavet
2 BBL ''SuperSix''


Joined: 17 Aug 2011
Posts: 18
Location: Roanoke, VA

Post subject: (Fri Mar 30, 2012 4:43 pm) Reply with quote

So, still having som stalling issues... Found out today tha my ignition timing was way too advanced, knocked it back to about 16 degrees. The only vacuum hooked up still is from the pcv and the vacuum advance, neither of which are leaking. Any ideas?



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hantayo13
Turbo EFI


Joined: 19 Feb 2005
Posts: 1736

Post subject: (Fri Mar 30, 2012 4:51 pm) Reply with quote

replace fuel filter , clean carb and reset mixture/speed


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65Dodge100
Turbo Slant 6


Joined: 08 Dec 2007
Posts: 593

Post subject: (Fri Mar 30, 2012 11:16 pm) Reply with quote

I second the fuel filter. Cheap and easy.

If you still have problems you may want to take the top off and look inside the carburetor bowl to see how dirty it is. If there is a lot of dirt/rust/whatever that is that settles in the bowl of carburetors, it wouldn't hurt to take it apart, soak it and put a rebuild kit in it.

A lot of good carburetor adjust/repair information here:

http://tinyurl.com/7gjxk39

Danny


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bigandbulky
4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''


Joined: 24 Feb 2012
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Location: NB Canada

Post subject: (Sat Mar 31, 2012 4:04 am) Reply with quote

I agree this is what i did in the same situation. Replace the fuel filter, cost me 3.95 and 55 seconds of work. taking apart the carb and cleaning it will help, recomnend a carb kit also



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modvavet
2 BBL ''SuperSix''


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Location: Roanoke, VA

Post subject: (Sun Apr 01, 2012 3:41 pm) Reply with quote

So, final thoughts:

Found some black gunk in the primary idle jet- cleaned it out. Installed tachometer. Not sure how high it was idling before to overcome the jet blockage, but I've now got it down to the mixture screw about 1.5 turns out, and I don't even need the idle screw touching the linkage- it runs between 1000 and 1300 rpms without any idle speed assist at all. Also, installed a filter just above the fuel pump. I'll probably go ahead and go down a bit on my jets, as that's still higher than it probably ought to be, but it's SO QUIET now Smile All stalling has ceased. Next up is a working sending unit and the proper gauge cluster and bezel, then probably a tune-up. Yay!

Edit: Just realized why it's still high- Gotta adjust my choke Smile)



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DadTruck
Turbo EFI


Joined: 17 Sep 2008
Posts: 1102
Location: Indianapolis

Post subject: (Sun Apr 01, 2012 6:01 pm) Reply with quote

while you are under the hood fixing carb issues, another place to check is the charcoal canister,, as they advance in age a common failure mode is for the internal screening to break down and allow the tiny bits of charcoal to get into the carb bowl or fuel tank vent line,
an ez action is to install a cheap fuel filter in the line(s).


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modvavet
2 BBL ''SuperSix''


Joined: 17 Aug 2011
Posts: 18
Location: Roanoke, VA

Post subject: (Sun Apr 01, 2012 6:29 pm) Reply with quote

Got a filter already, charcoal can was bypassed before I ever owned the thing Razz



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65Dodge100
Turbo Slant 6


Joined: 08 Dec 2007
Posts: 593

Post subject: (Mon Apr 02, 2012 8:02 pm) Reply with quote

Depending what choke you have it may not have much adjustment. Find the fast idle screw and back it out. If the choke is open, which it must be if it's running good, your fast idle screw has just had a moron screwing it. Or with it. Or both.

Back it out and set your regular idle while engine is hot and choke is open. Set the fast idle screw while engine is cold and choke is closed.

Danny


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modvavet
2 BBL ''SuperSix''


Joined: 17 Aug 2011
Posts: 18
Location: Roanoke, VA

Post subject: (Tue Apr 03, 2012 3:17 pm) Reply with quote

Choke is manual; I'd had it set to where it didn't open all the way temporarily to compensate while I had my primary idle jet stopped up Razz Weird and quirky, that is...

I seem to have everything about right now, though-

Mix screw 2 turns out
Idle speed a couple turns in
Choke set normally
Idles at around 8-900 now.

At this point, I'm just playing with the jets and settings a bit to see where I seem to get the best fuel economy without killing my power entirely Razz



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