I bought a 1984 Dodge D150 Slant 6 with Over Drive 4 Manual Trans in November of 2012 and have been working to get it in descent running condition.
What i've done is put the intake and a holley 1920 from a 72' dodge dart on the truck (the intake does not have a egr valve). I rebuilt the holley 1920 and am working with the tuning I don't have the automatic choke for the 1920 so it doesn't have a choke at this time.
You should fix this ASAP. A loose and floppy choke can lead to drive-ability problems and poor performance and fuel economy.
I have a haynes, chilton, and the 1984 OEM service manual for the truck so i've been using those as i work on the truck
The Haynes and the Chilton's make good doorstops or paperweights, but I wouldn't use them for much else, especially if you have a factory service manual.
I've got the truck running it seems to do OK in 1st and 2nd gear in how it moves with the engine RPMs but in 3rd it doesn't seem to move very fast. I haven't gotton it out on the highway to try out the overdrive gear
I'm not sure how the slant 6 is suppose to run i've never driven or rode in one before but it seems like it doesn't move very fast.
OK, it sounds like you need to spend some time tuning the carb and the ignition system. Read on below.
I ended up converting from the lean burn to the Chrysler electronic ignition system to see if that would help thinking that the lean burn wasn't adjusting the time correctly with the missing parts that it needs to work correctly.
I've got the timing set a about 5 degrees before TDC how far down the timing scale should the timing advance at higher RPMs? The scale only goes to about 24 degrees from what i can tell
OK. The first things you need to do are to check for timing chain stretch and check that the timing mark on the damper is showing true TDC. The outer ring on the damper can slip over time and give an incorrect reading of where your timing actually is set.
Once you have verified that your timing chain is not too stretched and the timing mark on the damper is true TDC, you need to disassemble the distributor to clean it and verify everything is working. Verify that the vacuum advance pod still holds a vacuum and clean and lubricate the mechanical advance mechanism. While you are in there, note the number stamped on the distributor governor, the type of springs installed on the mechanical advance weights, and the number stamped on the vacuum advance pod arm.
Stock slant six initial (base) timing specs varied from 5 ATDC to 16 BTDC depending on the emissions package, ignition system, and camshaft installed.
Determining your ideal base timing is not as simple as you would think. Slants generally "like" 32 degrees total mechanical advance with 8-12 degrees base advance and about 54 degrees total advance. The exact number of degrees BTDC you will set the timing depends on several variables- your cam profile and the amount of degrees of centrifugal and vacuum advance your distributor provides.
To get in the ballpark, you should pull the distributor and see the number that is stamped on the governor. A 9R governor provides 18 degrees of crankshaft timing advance, an 11R provides 22 degrees, etc... To get a rough idea of your base timing, you take the number stamped on the governor and multiply it by two, then subtract that number from 32. So, for a governor stamped 9, your base timing would be about 14 BTDC: (32-[9*2])= 14. You can advance or retard your base timing as needed to deal with different cam profiles.
While that number is the rough estimated base timing, the vacuum advance also comes into play. You need to see how many degrees the vacuum advance provides. Different vacuum advance cans provide different amounts of advance (and also apply that advance at different vacuum levels). While you have the distributor out, check if there is a number stamped on the vacuum pod arm. You will also have to multiply this number by 2 to get the number of crankshaft degrees the vacuum pod advances the timing. You want to have total spark advance of around 54 degrees. That means about 32 degrees of mechanical advance and 22 degrees of vacuum advance. You need to make sure that your base timing will not make the total spark advance get too far beyond 54 degrees when the vacuum and centrifugal advance systems are "all in."
There are numerous discussions on this board about "recurving" your distributor. Those threads have input from people much more knowledgeable than I, and give you all the info you need to determine your optimal base timing. I highly recommend searching for them and reading them.
The carburetor holds idle fine and seems to respond correctly when you thrust the throttle the engine seems to be sound. I did a complete tune up before trying to run the truck but it just doesn't seem to move down the road quit like i think it should especially in 3rd gear it seems pretty slow and unreponsive to throttle
Any help will be appreciated...i will post some before and after pics and if possible some video of the engine running
Like I said above, I recommend you (1) get the choke fixed (go straight for the Carbs Unlimited electric choke conversion discussed HERE
; then (2) spend some time giving your ignition system and distributor a good cleaning and going over.