any one got a spare they want to sell?

You can buy one from napa, just ask for the 3/4 fine thread bolt, i dont
know the exact length but maybe 2 inch.

Same ones on a small block too.

Any well stocked hardware store will have them.

Remember, most \6 cars came without a bolt. None is necessary, since the damper is an interference fit on the crankshaft.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

My observation is that manual transmission slants use the bolt. Those often use a balancer with 2 or 3 v-belt grooves that are all one piece, not bolted together like the dampers on the automatic tranny vehicles.

Seems I have a service bulletin on this subject. Someday I'll find it again.

Bean, i just went through this myself. 3/4" 16tpi 1 1/2"- 2" bolt. i bought mine at "Ace Hardware" but all they had was a grade "5". figured i'm only using it for tune-up's so it should be adequate. i also used "locktite" on bolt. by the way, welcome to the forum! i think you'll find that half these guys here could build their car up in their sleep!

Errrr...you sure about that? Never seen a factory part number difference for vibration damper with auto vs. manual trans. Maybe on hydraulic-lifter engines, though—I never paid much attention to them.

Spot check: Just one P/N for vibration damper in '60, '62, '64, '68, '69, '72 and '74 factory parts catalogues, plus bolt-on pulleys for P/S and A/C.



I know that feeling!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

what size is the washer?

Large and thick, much thicker than the hardware store will have.

OK, I found the bulletin. Seems it applies to the CAST crank engines. Here are poor photos. If you can't read them I will have to redo them.





Here is a picture of a cast crank manual transmission damper with the 3 groove inertia ring. Is is on a D250 Dodge truck with Slant 6, look close and you can barely see the bolt head in center of pulley.

Well, there y'go. I haven't had need to mess with a cast-crank engine in a good many years. Learn somethin' new every day!

Thanks for the scan job.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Very interesting, but why is the manual trans damper different then the auto? Evidently the cranks are interchangeable, between the manual and auto. The flywheels are interchangeble between the forged and cast cranks. What is the difference?

As a side note, this shows a mistake in the Chrysler slant six racing manual. Acording to the manual, the cast crank and forged crank dampers are different, where acording to the bulletin, the auto forged and cast dampers are the same.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Ermmmm...I don't read it the same way. The MP book is full of silly errors, but I don't think this is one of them. Take a look at the bottom line of the 2nd page of the bulletin Craig posted, which shows the one and only damper used with all transmissions with the forged crank, P/N 2208211. Then on the 3rd page, we're given the two different numbers for dampers used with the cast crank, P/N 4071060 and 4071061.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I see it is only the CAST crank manual transmission applications that use a different damper. The last page shows Passenger Car (PC) and light duty truck with cast crank use a damper with a two belt groove inerta member. Then it shows Heavy Duty truck with cast crank uses a 3 belt groove inerta member. Both must be retained with a bolt.

All forged crank slants ( either auto or manual trans) and cast crank slants with automatic trans can use the same damper with a single belt groove and does not require a bolt.

That's what I read also, where as the racing manual just states cast cranks use a differnt damper, then the forged cranks.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170