Now that the Turismo Drag Car project is moving along again and I am ordering parts for it I have a few questions.... This is strictly a drag race car that has been converted to Slant 6 RWD and has an 8 point cage installed.

1. What size fuel cell should I get? Summit lists them from 5 to 16 gallons. I'm thinking either 5 or 8 would be about right(?) Do I need to order the mounting kit separately?

2. What size/type of battery box should I get? There is a very large selection to choose from. It has to pass NHRA type tech inspection and fit whatever type battery is most common.

3. Can I use the seat brackets for the current bucket seats to mount racing seats or do I need to order mounting kits? I will be running two seats and the driver seat has to adjust because I will be teaching teenagers (and others) to drag race in it.

4. Any recommendations on style of racing harnesses? Since they have to be current for the year you're racing, perhaps I should hold off on the harnesses for now? It probably won't be ready to race for another year or two. I would like to have the hold downs for the harnesses installed though.

Any other ideas, concerns or considerations are welcome. Thanks for your input.

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

1) 5 gallon. Your builder could make mounting brackets for the cell you buy or just buy the one that come with it.

2) Look at something like an optima and size the box for it. Good race battery.

3) You should be able to mount the adjusters to the race seat with a little fabrication.

4) I would buy the harness last. 5pt and chose whatever locking mechanism you feel comfortable with. I personally like the lever lock not the cam button type. The do have an expiration date but the only time they ever look at mine is at IHRA/NHRA event. Normal Sat. night racing never checks them around here.

Other things:

Master Kill switch. - Might want one in the passenger area in case a "student" gets out of hand.

Drive Shaft loop - probably already in the work your builder is doing but check.

Window net - Most any class in IHRA/NHRA requires these but check the rules of the class you are considering. If just brackets I do not think you need it.

Fire bottle - if you think you need it.

Tom

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FJD

Awesome. Thanks Tom!

I didn't know if the 5 gallon would be too small or not.

Optima is a sealed battery, right? I saw another post about making sure the box was vented. Maybe not as much of a concern on a drag only car(?)

Joel certainly seems to be a good fabricator. I wasn't sure if they had to have certain mounts to pass tech or something.

Thanks for the Other Things as well. Good ideas.

Once he gets to the point of setting the engine and tranny I'll definitely mention the drive shaft loop.

Are window nets a fairly new thing? I don't remember anyone having window nets back during the 2003 season.

I'll need to figure out the Lexan window stuff at some point as well.

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

On a Turismo you will need a vented box because you will not be able to bulkhead the rear compartment from the passenger area. Optima batteries still need a vented box to be NHRA legal.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Dennis is right... i was not thinking about it being open to the back area. Is their a way to to block it off from the window down?? Otherwise you will definetly need to vent it out.

I only mention window nets because you mentioned NHRA type tech. If you are not planning anything more than bracket racing you do not need it.


Tom

_________________
Nitrous cars are like old men on Viagra. Once the bottle is empty they are useless.
FJD

I would go with the 5 gal fuel cell. We race our 400HP mudbogger a whole weekend on less than 5 gal fuel (4 x 6 sec passes). Seems the lawn mower gets a lot of premium fuel otherwise.

I always like fresh fuel to race....we drain it and use the fuel in the chain saws or lawn mower.

Dont forget helmet, fire suit, neck brace. Trans blanket.

When we are mud boggin' I like goggles as well.


Side bar yer honour!,,,,My head sewing lady sews up a new 5 point harness for us each season. We use the same hardwear but get new belting. I trust her to sew it up (shes certified) way more than whoever does it for RCI(or whoever) in China.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I forgot about trans sheild. Good protection and piece of mind.

We can easily get three runs(1/8) on methanol from a 5 gal tank so on gas you should be fine!

_________________
Nitrous cars are like old men on Viagra. Once the bottle is empty they are useless.
FJD

Rob, if it were me, and this gent you have working on your rig seems to know his stuff, I'd have him fabricate a removable bulkhead ( like with Dzus buttons ) that blocks off BOTH the battery box and fuel cell from the drivers compartment. The most consistant thing I've learned about tech people is their inconsistancy. You would hate to tow a thousand miles and then not make tech 'cause one fellows idea of safe may not be anothers. For example: I have a bracket station wagon ( hence no trunk area ) I installed a aluminum dirt track cell with the check valves and locking caps. One track guy said it was a great idea, very creative: PASSED At another track the tech guy acted like I"d stolen his wallet: FAILED "It's exposed to the drivers area".... Neither one said a word about my wet cell Duralast in a Walmart marine box sitting next to the cell. All they looked at there was the mounting hardware 3/8 " or bigger. The bulkhead may pay off later....RICK Oh yeah, I almost forgot: Slicks=Driveshaft Loop

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If you can't be good, at least be colorful

Great stuff guys. Thanks!

There are several battery boxes listed that are sealed and vented (Moroso, Summit, Taylor) Some are aluminum and some are plastic. I'll probably get the Summit Premium Relocation Kit (plastic with cables, etc.) and get the cut off switch and jumper terminals as well.

On the fuel cell I'm going with the 5 gallon and hold down kit. I was thinking about the fuel line kits they have listed. They advertise -6 AN and -8 AN. The fuel cell says there are two -8 AN fittings and then a -6 AN return line. Are these numbers like cable gauge where the smaller number respresents a larger size? I'm not sure if I should go ahead and get the fuel line kit now or just wait for awhile. I will also need a pump, filter and pressure regulator I suppose, or should I just use the mechanical pump I have for now?

Joel didn't specify which type of wheel tubs to get (aluminum or steel) so I guess I should ask him. He just said to get the larger ones since they are the same price and he will have to cut them to fit anyway. My assumption is that aluminum is lighter, but takes special welding skills to install(?)

I'll check out the trans shields. They are type specific, right? So just get one for the A904. Does it matter that it's a Slant 6 instead of V8?

Thanks for the quick replies and good advice. I'd better set some spending limits or I'll quickly spend that "hostile fire zone pay" I've been trying to ear mark for this stuff. (Long story about a "car stuff" spending agreement between me and the better half )

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

-6=3/8", -8=1/2" . - numbers get bigger as they go up.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Thanks again everyone.

The removable bulkhead idea sounds like a good one. Does anyone know how Dale Rose's Arrow is set up? His is a hatchback design like the Turismo.

It would seem that adding a little more sheet metal in the rear to seal it off wouldn't be that difficult.

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

I talked to Joel last night. He said to go with the steel wheel tubs 38X19X23.25. Easier to weld in and the weight gain for the sake of durability is worth the trade off he says.

He also said he was going to weld up a set of ladder bars for it! He said those A body leaf springs are fine and all, but rather than putting in a cross brace for a pinion snubber, he'd rather just weld up a set of ladder bars.

Does this guy rock or what!?

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser