Pushbutton Shifter Conversion

[Walter Lee Jackson]

I received today the kit from Imperial Services that allows the pushbutton gear selector from a 1962 to 1964 a-body to control a linkage-type 1966 and up Torqueflite.

I plan to install the kit this weekend on my 1963 Dodge Dart GT convertible. It has a 1963 engine with the 1968 and later crankshaft to accomodate a 1987 Torqueflite with electronic lockup torque converter.

With the permission of Imperial Services, below is a copy of the instruction sheet. Any typos are my doing.
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Conversion Cable Installation Procedure
Pushbutton Shift Applications
06/01/05

1.0 Scope
This document contains details for the assembly and installation of the Imperial Services Console Shifter Conversion Cable package. This package is intended for use on 1962 to 1964 Chrysler, Plymouth, and Dodge automobiles equipped with the original Pushbutton shifter, and a 1966 and later style Rear Wheel Drive TorqueFlite transmission. It is specifically NOT intended for use on any vehicle using any other type of shifting mechanism than those listed above. Use with any type of shifting mechanism or transmission other than listed above may create unsafe operating conditions that this package is not designed to address.

2.0 Safety
This package is intended for installation only by individuals familiar with automobile maintenance and the appropriate safety measures practiced when conducting such maintenance. This includes, but is not limited to, the use of safety glasses, goggles and shields, jack stands, and other personal protective equipment. Work area should be neat and clean, with ample general and task lighting. Do not attempt installation of this package if you are not familiar with these practices.

3.0 Material and Tool Requirements
- The complete cable package as supplied with this document. For convenience and illustrative purposes, the cable is shipped assembled as installed (with the exception of the Detent Spring). Carefully remove the Detent Spring by cutting the tie strap. Also note that a small bushing is installed in the cable eyelet with a tie wrap to prevent loss in shipping – do not remove this tie wrap until you are ready to install the cable on the pushbutton assembly. Remove the two 5/16" nuts from the lower bracket and discard.
- This document
- Standard hand tools
- A factory service manual of the correct year and model for the vehicle being modified.
- A torque wrench capable of measuring in in/lb.

4.0 Installation (Installation of the transmission is assumed and is beyond the scope of this procedure).
4.1 Replace Manual Lever Detent Spring
--- 4.11 Remove the valve body from the ‘66-later transmission being installed in the vehicle. Place the valve body on a repair stand or clean bench for this task. Be sure to use lint free towels when working with the valve body. Dirt or foreign matter can cause transmission malfunction and failure.
--- 4.1.2 Remove the E-Clip and retaining washer from the throttle lever shaft. Remove any burrs from the shaft, then while holding manual lever detent ball and spring in their bore with a small screwdriver, scale, or similar tool, slide the manual lever off the throttle shaft. Remove the detent ball and spring. Set the spring aside.
--- 4.1.3 Install the new lightweight spring included in the cable kit. Install the detent ball and depress the ball and spring with the tool used in Section 4.1.2. Slide the manual valve back over the throttle lever shaft, making sure that the lever arm on the manual lever assembly properly engages both the manual valve and the detent ball.
--- 4.1.4 Install the retaining washer and E-Clip on the throttle shaft.
--- 4.1.5 Reinstall the valve body in the transmission.

4.2 Remove original cables
--- 4.2.1 Be sure the vehicle battery is disconnected.
--- 4.2.2 Make note of the routing of the shift cable. The new cable will follow this same routing.
--- 4.2.3 Remove the original shift and park cables attached to the shifter, per the instructions in Section 21 “Transmission - Automatic” of your Service Manual. TIP: Before removing the cable, attach a piece of soft wire or string to the upper eyelet. Then remove the cable from below the vehicle, being sure to leave a sufficient length of wire or string in the interior to facilitate installation of the new cable.
--- 4.2.4 Set the clips and washers removed from the cables at the shifter aside for use with the new cable.
--- 4.2.5 Clean, dry, and store the original cables for future use.

4.3 Install the Conversion Cable to the Shifter
--- 4.3.1 Route the cable following the path used by the original shift cable. If a string or wire was affixed to the original cable (per the tip in Section 4.2.3), fasten the lower end of the wire or string to the eyelet end of the cable and pull the cable up from under the vehicle. Have an assistant help guide the cable and be careful not to kink or snag the cable insulation in this process.
--- 4.3.2 Install the new cable in the outer housing slot, with the eyelet over the pin on the shift lever. Carefully squeeze the housing slot with pliers to hold the housing securely, and install a washer and clip removed in Section 4.2.3 to hold the eyelet in place.
--- 4.3.3 Operate the shifter through its entire range and verity that the cable moves smoothly. The housing slot finders sometimes become bent over the years, and can be carefully adjusted to improve alignment if necessary.

4.4 Install Conversion Cable to the Transmission
NOTE: The bracket and cable nuts can be removed (if required) from the cable by sliding the black dust seal down slightly. It is not necessary to completely remove the seals.
--- 4.4.1 Install bracket to pan using spacers and bolts included in kit.

--- 4.4.2 Install cable to bracket using nuts and internal star washers. Center using the cable midway on the threads as a starting point.
--- 4.4.3 Install shifting lever on valve body stem. Tighten clamp bolt. NOTE: Due to minor casting and machining variations, some interference may occur between the clamp bolt and the case when the lever is in the “Park” position. The extreme edge of the clamp bolt nut can be carefully filed or sanded to provide extra clearance. In extreme cases, minor spot grinding the case may be required to clear the clamp bolt. Nut if interference still exists. See Figure B.
--- 4.4.4 Install dust seals on cable support.
--- 4.4.5 Install and pivot on end of cable to approximately the center of the threads. Use of a pivot jam nut is optional.
--- 4.4.6 Adjust cable housing and pivot as required to properly operate valve body.

5.0 Road Test Vehicle
--- 5.1.1 Operate vehicle in safe area to verify proper cable adjustment before road test.
--- 5.1.2 Road test vehicle.
--- 5.1.3 After road test, recheck all fasteners.

Special Transmission Mounts and Speedometer Cables are also available for this conversion.

If you have any questions or concerns during installation, contact Imperial Services at 989-652-6309.
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You can reach the vendor at:

Imperial Services
P. O. Box 112
Frankenmuth, MI 48734
989-652-6309 (phone)
989-652-4912 (fax)
www.imperialservices.net
info@imperialservices.net (e-mail)

--Walt Jackson

[slantvaliant]

Please, take photographs as you go, and post your thoughts, problems, impressions, and results. I know it's a pain, but it sure would help some of us.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

[Walter Lee Jackson]

I don't have a camera, but I'll purchase one of the disposable kind.

I'll need help to post the photos..

--Walt Jackson

[65 Dartman]

I recently ordered a Dynamic convertor and built 904 for my 340 going in my 65 Dart wagon. I discussed the info concerning the Imperial Services shifter upgrade with the gentleman who'll actually build the transmission. He said replacing the spring with the lightweight spring provided in the Imperial kit sounds easy but can end up taking a great deal of time for the first timer. He suggested I send him the kit as it will be much easier to do when he builds the valve body (and doing it at no extra charge). Based upon that, hope for the best and expect the worst. BTW that Imperial upgrade is first class parts all the way (also will have one going in my 65 Dart convertible whenever I get that far).