Here is a couple of pictures of the slack that was in my factory timing set when I pulled it yesterday. The plastic gear still had all of its teeth but it also had some pretty deep cracks also.





I also have noticed this strange wear pattern on the back of my timing chain cover. Is it cam walk or just the worn out chain flopping around?



Don't mean to sound stupid, but could somebody please explain to me how to line up the timing marks with a ruler. ?

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

Come on guys need a little help here. How do you line up the dots with a ruler? Do you have to find the centerline of the camshaft gear first?

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82 D150-225/727

02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed

87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

I've seen much worse timing chains than that. Owned them too. Anyway, it does look like you have a little cam walk. A worn timing chain moves radially, but that mark is from axial movement. Getting on and off the throttle at high RPM will cause the cam to walk a bit. A new timing chain will allow less axial movement and should cure the problem. If you really feel the need you can follow Doctor Dodge's instructions on making a cam stop. I searched, but can't find the instructions just now.

Line up the dots on the two sprockets you have now. If you hold up a ruler so that one edge passes through the centerlines of the cam and crank the sprocket dots should also fall on that line. Don't be worried if the cam sprocket's dot is pointing toward or away from the crank sprocket as long as it's on that imaginary line.

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Joshua

Okay guys I have another question, what is th preferred method of installing a new crank gear? I want to make sure I have it on straight. I was thinking of using a large socket but I don't have one big enough to clear the crank key.

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82 D150-225/727

02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed

87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

i just did this today. simply took a big piece of copper round stock, ground one edge into more of a wedge shape, and an even bigger hammer, and simply started tapping it on. i did read how other guys heat it up and just slip it on, but seeing as how i couldnt find my propae torch, that wasnt an option

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if its yours, nobody has to like it except you...

The reason you don't want to beat the crank sprocket on /and or the damper on, is every whack drives the crank backwards into the crank/main bearings, eventually you'll beat on one enough to bring it out of tolerance and have a crank that can walk back and forth enough to cause some problems.

The only safe way to go that route is to place the crank or engine with the crank on the ground, back side firmly on the floor then knock it on.




-D.idiot

The #3 thrust - main bearing can be damaged if you don't support the back of the crank while "pounding". The bearing face can take a little "tapping" but not hard load, it is a babbit faced bearing surface, it's soft.

The best "in car" way to get the new lower t-gear on is to use a big bolt and a sleeve to push the new gear onto the crank snout. A crank bolt from a small block Mopar will do thye trick.
DD

I heated it up on the camp stove and it slid right on. No pounding or hammers involved.

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82 D150-225/727

02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed

87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2