I have been trying to track down a new blower motor resistor for my 83 Dodge van and I have had no luck. Napa doesn't have it, Baxter Auto parts doesn't have it, even the dealer doesn't have it and no other dealership has one in stock.

Is there an alternative to the factory blower motor resistor assembly?

Factory P/N = 4114 599

1983 Dodge, B-150, 318, A/C, if that makes a difference.

Alternatively, maybe someone can tell me if i'm barking up the wrong tree trying to replace it.

When the HVAC system is off, the fan is off. As soon as I turn any function of the HVAC system on (A/C, vent, heat, whatever) the fan comes on full blast. It doesn't matter what position the fan switch is in, the fan turns on high. The fan stays on until the fuse blows. It has blown a 30 amp fuse.

I replaced the switch, same symptoms. I disconnected all wires from the resistor. Resistor has continuity across all terminals (pegged the multimeter on the Ohm setting), and the switch seems to be working properly (directing current to each of the three feed lines going to the resistor). When the resistor is totally disconnected, if I turn on an HVAC function and put the fan switch on high, the fan comes on high.

Does this sound like a bad blower resistor or an internally failed blower motor?

Remove the blower resistor assembly; sounds like its various resistor coils have become shorted to one another. 4114 599 is still showing as a current number when I pull it up at chryslerpartsdirect.com, but sometimes parts show up there that are no longer available. If that's the case, you ought to have little or no difficulty using the later 5600 3526.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan. I called the dealership this afternoon, and, as of then, the resistor was no longer in stock at any dealership on the planet and the part was discontinued. I ended up ordering a resistor for an 85 van from Rockauto. The switch and blower motor are the same, the only difference is the way the wires plug into the resistor block. I figure I can puzzle out the connections using an 85 FSM wiring diagram.

Collectors Auto Supply, Oroville Washington, lists 22 in stock.
Silkes Auto part, Jacksonville Florida, has one.
VALLEY VINTAGE AUTO PARTS, Brunswick Ohio lists four.

I have found Silkes to be the most reasonably priced.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Wow, thanks! I'll have to look those guys up. Now I know why there are none left at dealerships, these guys have been buying them up!

More questions. Sorry if my explanation is unclear. Keep in mind the only electronics training I had was three quarters of electronics in high school, many years ago. I'll do my best.

I pulled the blower motor resistor block and it looks nice and new- none of the telltale signs of failed electronics such as discoloration or charring. However, the (+) feed to the blower motor does show signs of overheating, specifically, the bullet terminal that plugs into the (+) feed from the resistor looks corroded like it has overheated numerous times and the wire and insulation near the bullet terminal looks slightly melted.

The fuse for the blower motor will blow if I drive with the fan on for an extended period of time.

I have looked at the wiring and can't find a short at the switch or between the switch and the resistor, or from the resistor to the plug to the blower motor.

However, when I put my multimeter on the Ohms setting and put the (-) probe onto the (+) feed for the blower and put the (+) probe on the battery feed at the fuse for the blower, the needle pegs.

To me, the fact that there is resistance/continuity between the (+) feed to the blower motor and the (+) fuse feed suggests that the blower motor has failed internally and there is a short inside the motor, right? Time for a new blower motor?

Measure the resistance across the blower motor.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Um, does that mean from the (+) feed to ground or to the case of the motor? There should be no resistance correct since there should be no contact between the windings and ground?

OK. There is continuity between the (+) feed on the motor and ground. Ergo, an internal short?

Sounds like it, yes. I'd now put a blower motor in it.

For reference: How difficult did it look to retrofit the later resistor unit?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The later resistor hasn't shown up. Maybe next week. However, from looking at the pictures online, I believe I will need to abandon the factory plastic plugs and connect the female spade terminals directly to the male terminals on the resistor block. However, I am going to try and use the original resistor block first.

No matter if it is the resistor block or the fan, I will still try and figure out how to adapt the newer resistor block to the van for future reference.

Whew. Turns out the problem WAS the resistor. Of course, I determined this AFTER swapping out the blower motor.

Anyway, rewiring for the new resistor was not hard at all. The wires follow the same configuration, there are just different distances between the terminals. I removed the hard plastic plugs, wrapped the exposed terminals in e-tape, and plugged them in. Works like a charm.

I can’t quite envision just what you taped up, but for a lasting insulating job try to fit a bit of shrink wrap on it. Tape will not stay well.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Agreed. I will keep an eye out for the later style resistor block at the junkyard and grab the plastic plug housings off of an 85-up van when I see one.