Slant Six Forum,  Forum Index
Slant Six Forum,  Forum Index
Slant Six Forum,  Forum Index
Home Slant Six Forum,  Forum Index Log in Register FAQ Memberlist Search

Please consider a donation to the site for Claude's Valiant Effort.

225 slant six manifold and exhust washers(conical)??
Goto page 1, 2  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Slant Six Forum, Forum Index -> Engine
Select message display options:             View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
340man
1 BBL (New)


Joined: 15 Feb 2011
Posts: 8
Location: gig Harbor

Post subject: 225 slant six manifold and exhust washers(conical)?? (Sat Mar 05, 2011 12:17 pm) Reply with quote

Hey guys thanks for all the help on the exhust leak problem..... One last question its about the washers and bolts I have for the intake and exhust manifolds, how many trianglar washers should I have and what does the conical washers look like? The artical shows 8 triangular washiers and 2 brass washers with special nuts and 3 conical washiers (what are these) and what do they look like??? Thanks again for all the help..340man


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
WhaleMstr
EFI Slant 6


Joined: 14 Nov 2002
Posts: 340
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere

Post subject: (Sat Mar 05, 2011 12:29 pm) Reply with quote

Howdy, well, I am dealing with that very subject - matter of fact I'm hoping the girlfriend doesn't notice the dark and greasy feeling of the keyboard now!!!

Anyway, I just got a new gasket - and it turns out all of my studs are too short to support the thickness of the gasket, with the original spacers etc. on them!!

I have been forced to use plain washers! I put two on each one so they can "move" in hopes this works!

I have no idea why stuff like this happens to me!! ????????
Did I put short studs in the head? NO WAY
Did I end up having to deal with it?? OF COURSE!!!

hahahahaha

As to your question - I know where they go but not so much exactly why - other than the manifolds need to "float" during the heating and cooling cycles. I know others will splain it lots better n me!

Later,
Dan



_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message AIM Address Yahoo Messenger
hantayo13
Turbo EFI


Joined: 19 Feb 2005
Posts: 1966

Post subject: (Sat Mar 05, 2011 5:52 pm) Reply with quote

one round washer top dead center ...two brass/with special nut each end, rest triangle ....I use a small screwdriver to install them and nuts DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN 10-12 LBS MAX


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message MSN Messenger
chucksrodgarage
TBI Slant 6


Joined: 05 Sep 2007
Posts: 134
Location: madison, wi.

Post subject: (Sat Mar 05, 2011 8:42 pm) Reply with quote

i wouldn't use the plain washers, the correct conical washers KEEP a preload on the manifolds. they are convex shaped.



_________________
Most of the stuff people worry about ain't never gonna happen anyway!!!
chuck Anglemyer
chucks' rod garage
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message MSN Messenger
Doctor Dodge
Guru


Joined: 12 Oct 2002
Posts: 3295
Location: Sunnyvale, Calif.

Post subject: (Sun Mar 06, 2011 9:53 am) Reply with quote

The cast iron conical washer is shown in the photo below (center-right)
That washer is also used on many other Mopar engines.
I only use one on a SL6, top, center position.
The FSM calls for 3 in the early years and then went to using just one, in later years.
DD



Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
WhaleMstr
EFI Slant 6


Joined: 14 Nov 2002
Posts: 340
Location: Corning, CA - middle of nowhere

Post subject: (Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:26 am) Reply with quote

chuck - only way around my little predicament from what i can see

take it all off - including draining the head and take the short studs out and installing ones a bit longer

by the way - i used two washers that are a little bigger than the "space" and then tightened them up until they both have a touch of a bend to them

i'm also running one of the exhaust manifolds with the ribs through it - a little tougher i am hoping

until i get my cheapy duals made that is! lol

anyhow - after running it around for over an hour yesterday
no leaks so far and it's finally starting to run like it used to
only better! haha

later
dan



_________________
"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message AIM Address Yahoo Messenger
61 V200
EFI Slant 6


Joined: 22 Jul 2006
Posts: 275
Location: Central Valley, California

Post subject: (Sun Mar 06, 2011 12:50 pm) Reply with quote

I don't know who rebuilt my 170, but they used big brass washers with a conical washer on top. So far no problems. I've got the triangular ones soon to be installed.

DD says he uses just one conical in the center. I'm wondering what he uses on each end.



_________________

Super Six Conversion Stromberg
Any day is a good day when you are on the right side of the lawn.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
hantayo13
Turbo EFI


Joined: 19 Feb 2005
Posts: 1966

Post subject: (Sun Mar 06, 2011 5:32 pm) Reply with quote

upper left corner of his picture the special brass and castle type nut on each end round on in top center, all others triangle

keep on roddin'


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message MSN Messenger
DadTruck
Turbo EFI


Joined: 17 Sep 2008
Posts: 1608
Location: Indianapolis

Post subject: (Sun Mar 06, 2011 6:02 pm) Reply with quote

what is the purpose of the castle style nuts,,
any reason that when using the correct washers in the correct locations,, normal hex nuts could not be used across the board?


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
hantayo13
Turbo EFI


Joined: 19 Feb 2005
Posts: 1966

Post subject: (Mon Mar 07, 2011 7:04 am) Reply with quote

the castle nut/brass washer on each end so manifold can float those two holes are only in exhast ,do not also hold intake


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message MSN Messenger
Doc
Guru


Joined: 14 Oct 2002
Posts: 5195
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA

Post subject: (Mon Mar 07, 2011 9:56 am) Reply with quote

The castle nut is special, it is really a "pinch-locking" nut.
The nut's coned shape w/ slots fits into the chamfer on the brass washer.
The torque force pinches the end of the nut, so it grips the stud, at a low torque setting, so it does not come loose under heat cycles and operation. The light gasket compression and brass to cast-iron contact allows the exhaust manifold to expand and contract... sliding around under the brass washer.
A well engineered fastener system that is easily defeated if incorrect hardware is used.
DD


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
DadTruck
Turbo EFI


Joined: 17 Sep 2008
Posts: 1608
Location: Indianapolis

Post subject: (Mon Mar 07, 2011 6:53 pm) Reply with quote

hopefully this is not jumping to far off topic,'
but when using Dutra's where the exhaust manifold is a two piece system or steel headers again likely a 2 piece system, and with an exhaust gasket upgrade like the aussie version mixed in,,,,

are stock nuts and bolts and studs and low torque settings still applicable?

thanks


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
61 V200
EFI Slant 6


Joined: 22 Jul 2006
Posts: 275
Location: Central Valley, California

Post subject: Good Question DD (Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:29 pm) Reply with quote

What fastener set up do you use when using a modified rear and dutra front casting?

Also, is the nut and washer on the stud in the upper left corner of the picture you posted the castle nut/conical washer?

I've hit the boneyards and it seems when they strip the manifolds off the slants they don't concern themselves with the fasteners....guess they just end up getting buried in the dirt.

I'm good to go except for the castle/conical fasteners



_________________

Super Six Conversion Stromberg
Any day is a good day when you are on the right side of the lawn.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Doc
Guru


Joined: 14 Oct 2002
Posts: 5195
Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA

Post subject: (Tue Mar 08, 2011 9:46 am) Reply with quote

When using a modified factory exhaaust casting, for Dutra Duals, I use the factory's fastener set-up, including the brass washer and lock nut.
As for Dutra exhaust manifolds... those dont care, use anything you want to hold it onto the head... it's so short and beefy, it does not move around much.
DD




Last edited by Doc on Thu Apr 28, 2011 9:00 am; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
paul_sak
3 Deuce Webber


Joined: 30 Apr 2006
Posts: 69
Location: Delaware

Post subject: where to buy hardware (Wed Mar 09, 2011 7:53 pm) Reply with quote

What are the best sources for lost or rusted nuts and washers?


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Select message display options:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Slant Six Forum, Forum Index -> Engine All times are GMT - 7 Hours
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

Please consider a donation to the site for Claude's Valiant Effort.

Go To Slant Six Forum Home

Mopar Ring Member Site
Mopar Ring Member Site



Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
Theme created by Vjacheslav Trushkin, modified by Chuck Rivers