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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 2:26 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:09 pm
Posts: 60
Location: CT
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OK...it's first time the car hasn't started since I got it on the road. I've been driving it frequently without any real issues. Now no spark. How do I test a ballast resitor? Also, I have a pertronix ignitor, how do I test that?


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 4:38 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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i dont know about the pertronix but the ballast is easy. with the lead plugged in unplug the side going to your coil. with the key on you should have 12v going in and 9v coming out.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 5:17 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
Posts: 7050
Location: SW Washington
Car Model*: B2500
An ohm meter is the only positive test. I can tell you why a voltage test may give you erroneous readings, but to do so at the keyboard is more than I want to get into when it's time for me to make dinner.

Disconnect at least one terminal and measure the resistance. It should be around 2 ohms give or take. Usually they fail open which on a digital meter is usually displayed as OL (overload or over limit) which means it's beyond the capability of the meter. Shorted is not good, but also near impossible to achieve.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 9:22 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 6:18 pm
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Location: Carrollton, GA
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To test your ballast resistor you need an ohm meter or multimeter set to ohms as previously suggested but you really need to remove the connectors from both sides of the resistor. I believe single should read 1.8 ohms and dual should read 1.8 and 5 ohms. You should be getting 9 volts to the positive side of the coil. Also check the negative side I believe it should be 9 volts. If there is voltage to all those spots then you have eliminated the ballast and coil. That basically leaves the Pertronix.

I had a similar issue occur when I was using the Pertronix II. It worked well but one day just stopped. It was the Pertronix.

If it turns out to be the Pertronix I would recommend pulling it out an replacing with a standard Mopar Electronic ignition setup or hei. That way if there is a problem you can run to any parts store and replace the part rather then possibly be stranded.

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2006 Jeep Commander
2013 Chrysler 200

1964 Valiant 4 Door
1965 Plymouth Barracuda
1967 Chevy Camaro


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 10:24 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:09 pm
Posts: 60
Location: CT
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Well, I put the points back in. The car runs. I guess it was the Pertronix. Now I have to follow through with them. The unit is only 10 months old.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 22, 2013 12:33 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 5770
Location: So California
Car Model*: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Was the pertronix hooked up before or after the ballast resistor?

Sometimes they don't work after the ballast resistor because there isn't enough voltage.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 3:19 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:09 pm
Posts: 60
Location: CT
Car Model*:
After ballast resistor, as per instructions. It was the Ignitor, not II or III. The car ran great, until it just didn't run at all. Makes me reconsider using another Pertronix...


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 7:21 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2004 7:18 pm
Posts: 308
Location: Falls Church, VA
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Even the standard issue Pertronix should work without the ballast if you are using the stock 3 ohm coil... keep the ballast resistor if you put in the "flame thrower" 1.5 ohm coil.

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Never seen a Valiant I didn't like!


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 11:28 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 6:18 pm
Posts: 409
Location: Carrollton, GA
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Not sure if I was clear on my opinion of Pertronix but I would not recommend it. Really easy points to electronic ignition till it goes out then you are out.

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2006 Jeep Commander

2013 Chrysler 200



1964 Valiant 4 Door

1965 Plymouth Barracuda

1967 Chevy Camaro


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 8:45 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Feb 06, 2005 8:13 pm
Posts: 439
Location: South Austin, Texas
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oldnslo wrote:
After ballast resistor, as per instructions. It was the Ignitor, not II or III. The car ran great, until it just didn't run at all. Makes me reconsider using another Pertronix...


Somehow, "reconsider" just doesn't convey the strength of your feelings... :lol: :lol:

BC

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 26, 2013 2:10 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2004 7:18 pm
Posts: 308
Location: Falls Church, VA
Car Model*:
I haven't had any problems with the Pertronix ignitor 1 that I put in my '65 Valiant three years ago. I keep the points and condenser in the trunk, in the event of a problem.

I also keep a spare Chrylser electronic ignition module in the trunk of my '75 Dart for the same reason. I've had a few of those fail over the years.

Absolutely, oldnslo you should contact Pertronix and see if they will send you a replacement. They'd be smart if they do... the good reputation that a positive outcome in this case would bring would be worth more than the cost of the unit for Pertronix.

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Never seen a Valiant I didn't like!


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 5:19 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:09 pm
Posts: 60
Location: CT
Car Model*:
The unit was only 10 months old. I called the tech line and they emailed me on how to test. It failed. I sent it back under warranty. Being as I will be getting another unit, not a refund, I am most likely going to try it again. Otherwise I'll just be kissing my money goodbye. BUT...I plan to keep my distributor with the points adjusted and ready to go in the trunk!


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 7:01 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:09 pm
Posts: 60
Location: CT
Car Model*:
Well, the new Ignitor came today...let's try this again.


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