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 Post subject: clutch installation
PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 4:54 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
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I did not mark the flywheel to crank before removal, am I going to have balancing issues. 1986 Dodge slant six NP 435 trans 11 inch clutch

Thank-you


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 Post subject: Nope...
PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 6:19 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
I did not mark the flywheel to crank before removal, am I going to have balancing issues.


On the slant six, the bolt pattern only goes one way so if it's off you will have 1-3 crank bolts that can't be installed...All slants are neutral balanced (or close to it...) so they don't have weights or drilled spots on the flywheel like the other motors (1973 340, 440 six pack, cast crank 400 and 440, 5.9 magnum, 360, etc....)

So line it up and torque them in (and to make sure it stays put, use loctite on the crank bolts...)

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 10:19 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

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Thanks very much


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 Post subject: Re: Nope...
PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 10:35 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
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DusterIdiot wrote:
Quote:
I did not mark the flywheel to crank before removal, am I going to have balancing issues.


On the slant six, the bolt pattern only goes one way so if it's off you will have 1-3 crank bolts that can't be installed...All slants are neutral balanced (or close to it...) so they don't have weights or drilled spots on the flywheel like the other motors (1973 340, 440 six pack, cast crank 400 and 440, 5.9 magnum, 360, etc....)

So line it up and torque them in (and to make sure it stays put, use loctite on the crank bolts...)

-D.Idiot


Is there anything I should watch out for before installing a new clutch, anything specific with the slant six. I have a new kit which includes clutch, pilot bushing, throwout bearing, and pressure plate/tool.

Any suggestions on getting that old pilot bushing out, new pilot bushing installation, what to lubricate specifically before putting all this back together and how critical it is to center clutch disk before tightening bolts on plate.

I have never installed a clutch on this vehicle so any tips would be appreciated.

I wonder if it would help to have the flywheel balanced, it is being re-surfaced but that will not mean that it is in any way balanced so what do you think?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 8:34 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 2209
Location: Indianapolis
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for the pilot bushing

Autozone and other parts houses have a tool loaner program, I got an inside bushing puller,, had two fingers that lock into the bushing through the ID,then a slide hammer on a shaft,, three pops on the hammer and it was out,, I also heard that HF has a these bearing pullers available..

take a bit of care in getting the clutch plate centered so there is no to minimal drag on the alignment tool when it is inserted / removed and you will be rewarded with a engine - tranny that go together easily,,

having the flywhel re surfaced is the right thing to do, that will not affect the balance.

to be absolute safe, I would also check the flywheel housing run out,,I did on the 83 D-150 and the OE hsg to OE block were beyond the recommended r/o tolerance by a few thousands..
there are u tube videos explaining that process in detail


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 2:21 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
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Thanks for the good tips/info, will be careful lining it up


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 2:31 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
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Took the top cover/handle off my trans this evening, ( N.P 435 ) the two shifter forks have some sort of white plastic/nylon bushing on their tips, not sure of their purpose, I would guess they are there to make shifting quieter. One of the bushings fell down into the tranny, going to drain and try and find it in the morning but I would guess even if I do find it that it will be no good since it just fell off the fork.

Can anyone tell me what these are called and maybe how to find them. If I have at least a name I will have a start. Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Nope...
PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 10:14 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Bremerton, WA
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1930 wrote:
Any suggestions on getting that old pilot bushing out, new pilot bushing installation, what to lubricate specifically before putting all this back together?


An old trick if you don't have access to a puller: Find a socket that just barely fits inside the pilot bushing. Fill the cavity in the back of the crankshaft full of grease, put an extension on the socket, and slide the socket into the old pilot bushing. Now give the end of the extension some swift hits with a heavy hammer. This will try to compress the grease, and force the bushing out. It takes a few tries, but has always worked for me.

When you're ready to put the new bushing in, these bronze bushings should be oiled, not greased. Rest the bushing with one end on your thumb, carefully fill the cavity with motor oil (try not to spill any down the outside), and then with your index finger or other thumb, squeeze down on the ends of the bushing until the oil wicks it's way through and makes the outside of visibly damp. Then it's ready to install.

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 Post subject: Re: Nope...
PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 1:35 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
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zorg wrote:
1930 wrote:
Any suggestions on getting that old pilot bushing out, new pilot bushing installation, what to lubricate specifically before putting all this back together?


An old trick if you don't have access to a puller: Find a socket that just barely fits inside the pilot bushing. Fill the cavity in the back of the crankshaft full of grease, put an extension on the socket, and slide the socket into the old pilot bushing. Now give the end of the extension some swift hits with a heavy hammer. This will try to compress the grease, and force the bushing out. It takes a few tries, but has always worked for me.

When you're ready to put the new bushing in, these bronze bushings should be oiled, not greased. Rest the bushing with one end on your thumb, carefully fill the cavity with motor oil (try not to spill any down the outside), and then with your index finger or other thumb, squeeze down on the ends of the bushing until the oil wicks it's way through and makes the outside of visibly damp. Then it's ready to install.


I have never heard of the second part of your post, how long does that usually take for the oil to wick thru? Also when the bushing is installed should I fill the cavity with Vaseline or what ( ? ) before I install tranny?

What needs to be lubed on tranny input shaft before installation and with what? I have lubed the collar that throwout bearing rides on and the tip of input shaft that goes into rear of crank but again I am no expert.

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 3:05 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
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My factory service manual says to lubricate the pilot bushing in the end of the cranksahaft with Mopar grease part # 4318063 as part of clutch replacement procedure, can anyone tell me what the equivalent of the grease would be avail thru maybe Napa so I can get this clutch installed tomm. Thank-you


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 4:46 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 2209
Location: Indianapolis
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Quote:
Mopar grease part # 4318063


googled that and found a posting identifying it as a multi purpose grease,,

I used a dab of semi synthetic wheel bearing grease for my pilot bearing install...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 5:11 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
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Thanks for the info, I want to be sure that I dot my I z and cross my T s on this job so I have years of trouble free service


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2013 2:27 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
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I really need some help here, went to install clutch today and it turned out not only was the pressure plate incorrect but it is no longer avail for my 1986 Dodge W100 with N.P 435 trans ( 11 inch clutch ) so now I have to wait for Napa to recon my existing units.

My problem lies here and I hope some of you guys are familiar with this set-up, the way I am trying to install clutch ( the only way I can see ) is to bolt the bellhousing onto the back of the engine first.

There are three bolts that go thru the bellhousing into the back of the engine and they are just about non-accessible with the flywheel on first, I have no way in other words that I can see to tighten these bolts with the flywheel in place.

So bolt the bellhousing on and then slip the flywheel up in there thru the bottom and then try and wrestle the clutch and pressure plate up in there and then try my best to center it all thru the smaller hole at rear of bellhousing.

What am I doing wrong? I cant believe Chrysler would make this so difficult so there must be a trick I am missing.


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 Post subject: Nope...
PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 11:20 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
went to install clutch today and it turned out not only was the pressure plate incorrect but it is no longer avail for my 1986 Dodge W100 with N.P 435 trans ( 11 inch clutch )


Stupid kids...I bought a brand new clutch and disc from LUK for this very application for $148, your counter guy just is lazy...now you have to wait for them to ship it to someone and hope they actually change the springs in the cover so they aren't old and soft...

You assessment of the bellhousing/flywheel/clutch assembly is correct, it's not easy, and mopar put these in as an assembly and didn't think they would wear out until 100K...if you had gotten a new kit it would have a tool to center the disc while installing the cover bolts...if not available you can use an old input shaft from a mopar 3 or 4 speed for the same job (much better alignment from the steel input shaft vs. the nylon tool...)

Be prepared for some scrapped knuckles along the way. :wink:

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject: Re: Nope...
PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2013 1:49 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 2:14 pm
Posts: 759
Car Model*:
DusterIdiot wrote:
Quote:
went to install clutch today and it turned out not only was the pressure plate incorrect but it is no longer avail for my 1986 Dodge W100 with N.P 435 trans ( 11 inch clutch )


Stupid kids...I bought a brand new clutch and disc from LUK for this very application for $148, your counter guy just is lazy...now you have to wait for them to ship it to someone and hope they actually change the springs in the cover so they aren't old and soft...

You assessment of the bellhousing/flywheel/clutch assembly is correct, it's not easy, and mopar put these in as an assembly and didn't think they would wear out until 100K...if you had gotten a new kit it would have a tool to center the disc while installing the cover bolts...if not available you can use an old input shaft from a mopar 3 or 4 speed for the same job (much better alignment from the steel input shaft vs. the nylon tool...)

Be prepared for some scrapped knuckles along the way. :wink:

-D.Idiot


Do you have a part number for the correct kit, Napa has told me as of this afternoon that a kit is indeed avail but it also requires buying a new up-dated flywheel which will work with the re-designed pressure plate.


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