Slant Six Forum,  Forum Index
Slant Six Forum,  Forum Index
Slant Six Forum,  Forum Index
Home Slant Six Forum,  Forum Index Log in Register FAQ Memberlist Search

This site is paid for by donations. Click here to help.

clutch installation
Goto page 1, 2  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Slant Six Forum, Forum Index -> Engine
Select message display options:             View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
1930
Turbo Slant 6


Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 605

Post subject: clutch installation (Tue Sep 03, 2013 4:54 pm) Reply with quote

I did not mark the flywheel to crank before removal, am I going to have balancing issues. 1986 Dodge slant six NP 435 trans 11 inch clutch

Thank-you


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
DusterIdiot
Board Sponsor


Joined: 29 Oct 2002
Posts: 8640
Location: Salem, OR

Post subject: Nope... (Tue Sep 03, 2013 6:19 pm) Reply with quote

Quote:
I did not mark the flywheel to crank before removal, am I going to have balancing issues.


On the slant six, the bolt pattern only goes one way so if it's off you will have 1-3 crank bolts that can't be installed...All slants are neutral balanced (or close to it...) so they don't have weights or drilled spots on the flywheel like the other motors (1973 340, 440 six pack, cast crank 400 and 440, 5.9 magnum, 360, etc....)

So line it up and torque them in (and to make sure it stays put, use loctite on the crank bolts...)

-D.Idiot


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
1930
Turbo Slant 6


Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 605

Post subject: (Tue Sep 03, 2013 10:19 pm) Reply with quote

Thanks very much


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
1930
Turbo Slant 6


Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 605

Post subject: Re: Nope... (Tue Sep 03, 2013 10:35 pm) Reply with quote

DusterIdiot wrote:
Quote:
I did not mark the flywheel to crank before removal, am I going to have balancing issues.


On the slant six, the bolt pattern only goes one way so if it's off you will have 1-3 crank bolts that can't be installed...All slants are neutral balanced (or close to it...) so they don't have weights or drilled spots on the flywheel like the other motors (1973 340, 440 six pack, cast crank 400 and 440, 5.9 magnum, 360, etc....)

So line it up and torque them in (and to make sure it stays put, use loctite on the crank bolts...)

-D.Idiot


Is there anything I should watch out for before installing a new clutch, anything specific with the slant six. I have a new kit which includes clutch, pilot bushing, throwout bearing, and pressure plate/tool.

Any suggestions on getting that old pilot bushing out, new pilot bushing installation, what to lubricate specifically before putting all this back together and how critical it is to center clutch disk before tightening bolts on plate.

I have never installed a clutch on this vehicle so any tips would be appreciated.

I wonder if it would help to have the flywheel balanced, it is being re-surfaced but that will not mean that it is in any way balanced so what do you think?


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
DadTruck
Turbo EFI


Joined: 17 Sep 2008
Posts: 1561
Location: Indianapolis

Post subject: (Wed Sep 04, 2013 8:34 am) Reply with quote

for the pilot bushing

Autozone and other parts houses have a tool loaner program, I got an inside bushing puller,, had two fingers that lock into the bushing through the ID,then a slide hammer on a shaft,, three pops on the hammer and it was out,, I also heard that HF has a these bearing pullers available..

take a bit of care in getting the clutch plate centered so there is no to minimal drag on the alignment tool when it is inserted / removed and you will be rewarded with a engine - tranny that go together easily,,

having the flywhel re surfaced is the right thing to do, that will not affect the balance.

to be absolute safe, I would also check the flywheel housing run out,,I did on the 83 D-150 and the OE hsg to OE block were beyond the recommended r/o tolerance by a few thousands..
there are u tube videos explaining that process in detail


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
1930
Turbo Slant 6


Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 605

Post subject: (Wed Sep 04, 2013 2:21 pm) Reply with quote

Thanks for the good tips/info, will be careful lining it up


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
1930
Turbo Slant 6


Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 605

Post subject: (Wed Sep 04, 2013 2:31 pm) Reply with quote

Took the top cover/handle off my trans this evening, ( N.P 435 ) the two shifter forks have some sort of white plastic/nylon bushing on their tips, not sure of their purpose, I would guess they are there to make shifting quieter. One of the bushings fell down into the tranny, going to drain and try and find it in the morning but I would guess even if I do find it that it will be no good since it just fell off the fork.

Can anyone tell me what these are called and maybe how to find them. If I have at least a name I will have a start. Thanks


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
zorg
Turbo Slant 6


Joined: 21 Feb 2003
Posts: 972
Location: Bremerton, WA

Post subject: Re: Nope... (Wed Sep 04, 2013 10:14 pm) Reply with quote

1930 wrote:
Any suggestions on getting that old pilot bushing out, new pilot bushing installation, what to lubricate specifically before putting all this back together?


An old trick if you don't have access to a puller: Find a socket that just barely fits inside the pilot bushing. Fill the cavity in the back of the crankshaft full of grease, put an extension on the socket, and slide the socket into the old pilot bushing. Now give the end of the extension some swift hits with a heavy hammer. This will try to compress the grease, and force the bushing out. It takes a few tries, but has always worked for me.

When you're ready to put the new bushing in, these bronze bushings should be oiled, not greased. Rest the bushing with one end on your thumb, carefully fill the cavity with motor oil (try not to spill any down the outside), and then with your index finger or other thumb, squeeze down on the ends of the bushing until the oil wicks it's way through and makes the outside of visibly damp. Then it's ready to install.



_________________
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
1930
Turbo Slant 6


Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 605

Post subject: Re: Nope... (Thu Sep 05, 2013 1:35 am) Reply with quote

zorg wrote:
1930 wrote:
Any suggestions on getting that old pilot bushing out, new pilot bushing installation, what to lubricate specifically before putting all this back together?


An old trick if you don't have access to a puller: Find a socket that just barely fits inside the pilot bushing. Fill the cavity in the back of the crankshaft full of grease, put an extension on the socket, and slide the socket into the old pilot bushing. Now give the end of the extension some swift hits with a heavy hammer. This will try to compress the grease, and force the bushing out. It takes a few tries, but has always worked for me.

When you're ready to put the new bushing in, these bronze bushings should be oiled, not greased. Rest the bushing with one end on your thumb, carefully fill the cavity with motor oil (try not to spill any down the outside), and then with your index finger or other thumb, squeeze down on the ends of the bushing until the oil wicks it's way through and makes the outside of visibly damp. Then it's ready to install.


I have never heard of the second part of your post, how long does that usually take for the oil to wick thru? Also when the bushing is installed should I fill the cavity with Vaseline or what ( ? ) before I install tranny?

What needs to be lubed on tranny input shaft before installation and with what? I have lubed the collar that throwout bearing rides on and the tip of input shaft that goes into rear of crank but again I am no expert.

Thanks


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
1930
Turbo Slant 6


Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 605

Post subject: (Wed Sep 11, 2013 3:05 pm) Reply with quote

My factory service manual says to lubricate the pilot bushing in the end of the cranksahaft with Mopar grease part # 4318063 as part of clutch replacement procedure, can anyone tell me what the equivalent of the grease would be avail thru maybe Napa so I can get this clutch installed tomm. Thank-you


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
DadTruck
Turbo EFI


Joined: 17 Sep 2008
Posts: 1561
Location: Indianapolis

Post subject: (Wed Sep 11, 2013 4:46 pm) Reply with quote

Quote:
Mopar grease part # 4318063


googled that and found a posting identifying it as a multi purpose grease,,

I used a dab of semi synthetic wheel bearing grease for my pilot bearing install...


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
1930
Turbo Slant 6


Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 605

Post subject: (Wed Sep 11, 2013 5:11 pm) Reply with quote

Thanks for the info, I want to be sure that I dot my I z and cross my T s on this job so I have years of trouble free service


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
1930
Turbo Slant 6


Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 605

Post subject: (Thu Sep 12, 2013 2:27 pm) Reply with quote

I really need some help here, went to install clutch today and it turned out not only was the pressure plate incorrect but it is no longer avail for my 1986 Dodge W100 with N.P 435 trans ( 11 inch clutch ) so now I have to wait for Napa to recon my existing units.

My problem lies here and I hope some of you guys are familiar with this set-up, the way I am trying to install clutch ( the only way I can see ) is to bolt the bellhousing onto the back of the engine first.

There are three bolts that go thru the bellhousing into the back of the engine and they are just about non-accessible with the flywheel on first, I have no way in other words that I can see to tighten these bolts with the flywheel in place.

So bolt the bellhousing on and then slip the flywheel up in there thru the bottom and then try and wrestle the clutch and pressure plate up in there and then try my best to center it all thru the smaller hole at rear of bellhousing.

What am I doing wrong? I cant believe Chrysler would make this so difficult so there must be a trick I am missing.


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
DusterIdiot
Board Sponsor


Joined: 29 Oct 2002
Posts: 8640
Location: Salem, OR

Post subject: Nope... (Fri Sep 13, 2013 11:20 am) Reply with quote

Quote:
went to install clutch today and it turned out not only was the pressure plate incorrect but it is no longer avail for my 1986 Dodge W100 with N.P 435 trans ( 11 inch clutch )


Stupid kids...I bought a brand new clutch and disc from LUK for this very application for $148, your counter guy just is lazy...now you have to wait for them to ship it to someone and hope they actually change the springs in the cover so they aren't old and soft...

You assessment of the bellhousing/flywheel/clutch assembly is correct, it's not easy, and mopar put these in as an assembly and didn't think they would wear out until 100K...if you had gotten a new kit it would have a tool to center the disc while installing the cover bolts...if not available you can use an old input shaft from a mopar 3 or 4 speed for the same job (much better alignment from the steel input shaft vs. the nylon tool...)

Be prepared for some scrapped knuckles along the way. Wink

-D.Idiot


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
1930
Turbo Slant 6


Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 605

Post subject: Re: Nope... (Fri Sep 13, 2013 1:49 pm) Reply with quote

DusterIdiot wrote:
Quote:
went to install clutch today and it turned out not only was the pressure plate incorrect but it is no longer avail for my 1986 Dodge W100 with N.P 435 trans ( 11 inch clutch )


Stupid kids...I bought a brand new clutch and disc from LUK for this very application for $148, your counter guy just is lazy...now you have to wait for them to ship it to someone and hope they actually change the springs in the cover so they aren't old and soft...

You assessment of the bellhousing/flywheel/clutch assembly is correct, it's not easy, and mopar put these in as an assembly and didn't think they would wear out until 100K...if you had gotten a new kit it would have a tool to center the disc while installing the cover bolts...if not available you can use an old input shaft from a mopar 3 or 4 speed for the same job (much better alignment from the steel input shaft vs. the nylon tool...)

Be prepared for some scrapped knuckles along the way. Wink

-D.Idiot


Do you have a part number for the correct kit, Napa has told me as of this afternoon that a kit is indeed avail but it also requires buying a new up-dated flywheel which will work with the re-designed pressure plate.


Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Select message display options:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Slant Six Forum, Forum Index -> Engine All times are GMT - 7 Hours
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Go To Slant Six Forum Home

Mopar Ring Member Site
Mopar Ring Member Site



Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
Theme created by Vjacheslav Trushkin, modified by Chuck Rivers