The rebuilt 63 225 is running and strong. Yeehaw!

Got the dizzy dialed in finally. That was the first part that made the difference. Yanked the carb apart yesterday after I was having problems keeping it running for lack of fuel. Cleaned and blew out everything, put it back together and started the engine again. Then it ran and kept running but wanted to die at idle. I realized I put one of the check balls in the wrong place, yanked it apart again, re-located the check ball to the correct orifice, and it started and ran on it's own. Nice! Here are some observations & questions for everyone:

1. When the engine's cold and choked, it starts and runs on its own at fast idle. BUT, when it warms up and the choke backs off, it dies. I can give the throttle a 'pump' and it will start again, and I must keep the throttle slightly depressed for it to keep running at a faster idle. I can't keep it running at low idle - it dies. I'm thinking this may be a combination of a mal-adjusted carburetor, and a tight engine. Thoughts?

2. There's significant vibration/engine tremble at low-mid idle. I'm 95% sure the vibration I'm feeling is being well-transmitted to the frame by the new poly engine mounts (front mounts only, didn't change the rear mount). Any speculation about where all this vibration is coming from? The engine feels 'smooth' at a higher revved speed, but not at speeds closer to idle: feels 'jerky' and when sitting in the car, you feel the engine trembling. Is this just break-in jitters? If so, when should this even-out?

3. Now that I have it running, I have to start fine-tuning. I need to A) service the carburetor to get the settings correct for idle mixture, lean idle, fast idle, etc., and B) I need to lash the valves to correct specs. There may be other things I need to do, but these are the first that come to mind. Should I perform these procedures in this order, or are there other steps I should take?

4. Random question: the union I made on one of my trans cooler lines leaks slightly - right onto the exhaust pipe (smoky!), despite a very tight connection. If I were to use a tape on the threaded fittings to help the seal, what tape would that be? White plumber's tape, or something else? I don't feel like I should have to use anything on this union to get it to seal correctly, but maybe my flare job wasn't 100% ideal, or maybe the line entered the union at just such an angle that causes the union to be unable to mate the lines perfectly (guessing). If I have to bend/re-flare the line, I will, but this is one of my least-favorite activities - such a B!*$tch!

5. I used to think that the Chrysler high-speed starter on my engine sounded odd, and cranked the engine with a weird cadence because the engine had a cylinder or two with low compression (causing the uneven cranking). Well, there's still an uneven sound. Instead of a nice even 'do do do do do', it's kinda 'do do do duuuooo do do do duuuoo". With the rebuild, I thought that would be gone! Maybe my starter has some internal wear or dead spots that need servicing?

Want to get these issues taken care of asap, so I can get this baby back on the road.

Thanks for the thoughts!

Will share video links, once I get everything corrected.

2. There's significant vibration/engine tremble at low-mid idle. I'm 95% sure the vibration I'm feeling is being well-transmitted to the frame by the new poly engine mounts (front mounts only, didn't change the rear mount). Any speculation about where all this vibration is coming from? The engine feels 'smooth' at a higher revved speed, but not at speeds closer to idle: feels 'jerky' and when sitting in the car, you feel the engine trembling. Is this just break-in jitters? If so, when should this even-out?

Frame? Are you sure you have the dwell/points set correct? Timing? I have poly motor mounts and they have very little vibration transmission to the car.(the OLD mashmellow ones had the engine shaking all over the place!)

4. Random question: the union I made on one of my trans cooler lines leaks slightly - right onto the exhaust pipe (smoky!), despite a very tight connection. If I were to use a tape on the threaded fittings to help the seal, what tape would that be? White plumber's tape, or something else? I don't feel like I should have to use anything on this union to get it to seal correctly, but maybe my flare job wasn't 100% ideal, or maybe the line entered the union at just such an angle that causes the union to be unable to mate the lines perfectly (guessing). If I have to bend/re-flare the line, I will, but this is one of my least-favorite activities - such a B!*$tch!

I had the same problem with one of my trans. lines. They have to be at the correct angle (with a good flare!)
I would take it off bend it alittle and try again.(trial & error)

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1964 Dart GT

The engine dying when it warms up might be due to valves too tight when cold.

I agree....loosen up the valve lash.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thank you. Yes, I'm informed the reason for dying at idle, and and the roughness is caused by two things: My PCV valve outlet has been running wide-open to the air. I failed to mention I was running the engine with the valve cover off/PCV valve off. Didn't realize leaving it wide open would cause the low idle impossibility.

Plus, my valves are currently lashed extremely tight. Didn't realize the advice I was given of a cold lash of 'a few thousandths' meant ADDING a few thousandth's clearance to the hot lash. OOPS!

Once it will start and idle ....the rest is detail . Congrats! I know this has been a long path for you. You made it.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Thank you. I will feel great about it, once it's running and driving with no leaks. Then, on to installing the factory A/C equipment.

It'll be great to cut the next project's time down to at least 1/2 or 1/4 of the time I spent on this one. That's the engine from the '60 Valiant V200 wagon. It's burning oil - think the oil control rings are shot.

Boy, what an amazing difference that made. Check out the results:

before you reset your tappets, re torque the head again

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1967 VC Valiant

Yup, wide open PCV port will make for crappy idle if it will idle at all, a huge vacuum leak, and monster flat spot out on the road... I have made the same omission several times forgetting to plug PCV hose back in after having removed carburetor.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Congrats on your rebuild,I'm sure sharper eyes than mine will be able to offer a better opinion,but,when I watched the video I couldn't see much oil around the rockers,probably just me watching on an ipad,but make sure your getting a good supply to the top end before you button it all up. At a fast idle there should be enough oil flying about to create a decent mess including splashes on the inner fender. If all is well enjoy your new engine.

There is lots of oil that likes to create a mess, so I think I'm good there. Separate post to come about that now.