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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 11:22 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 7:44 pm
Posts: 88
Car Model*: 1955 Dodge Truck
coconuteater64 wrote:
Wacky and pointless way to ruin a classic RX-7. I love it! You really work fast. I can't wait to see it running.

The car is garbage and certainly not the greatest candidate for a resto.
Ruined?
What some tin cut off firewall.
Thats the only thing altered big time.
Truth be told its a scrap yard canidate.
If and I do meannif I pull this project off this car will have a new lease on life, with a decent powerplant.
I have my reservations on this project too.
My biggest hurdle is the clutch throw out.
I may have to resort to an expensive hydraulic release bearing, I'm hoping not.
This could very well be the first 79 RX7 in the world eith a slant 6 and 833..


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 8:55 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon May 12, 2008 1:11 am
Posts: 1281
Location: North Georgia
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If you can't make the clutch work, an automatic should slide in there with ease. I think.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 6:39 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 7:44 pm
Posts: 88
Car Model*: 1955 Dodge Truck
coconuteater64 wrote:
If you can't make the clutch work, an automatic should slide in there with ease. I think.

Anything can be made to work at a certain price.
I have minimal space for the super long throwout fork.
If I can make clearance I should be able to rig up a slave cylinder to work it.
If not a hydraulic throwout bearing will be required.
Going A904 the initial price. A freshen up and shift kit, then a shigter and kick down cable as well a cooler will be needed. So thats not any cheaper than an expensive custom hydraulic setup.
If I cannot get tge clutch working in a budget.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 8:23 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 7:44 pm
Posts: 88
Car Model*: 1955 Dodge Truck
Does anyone know how reliable and well hydraulic release bearings do work?
How about this setup would this work?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 1:37 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 2339
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model*:
One advantage to the external slave cylinder is you
use a conventional throw out bearing.
IIRC ‘87 D150’s used a set up like that.
Concerning reliability, I have a ‘96 GMC Sonoma with
+200K miles with a hydraulic clutch and zero
maintenance on the hydraulic clutch system.
So they can be troublefree, there are issues with
the aftermarket installs, probably due to the
custom installation...


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 2:37 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 7:44 pm
Posts: 88
Car Model*: 1955 Dodge Truck
The Tilton hydraulic release bearing has great reviews.
Im fighting for every bit of space in this area for the throw out fork etc.
Like to here from those who have these type of release bearing setups.
As this car is already set up for a hydraulic clutch it makes things a bit less complicated.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 3:29 pm 
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Board Sponsor

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 5381
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model*: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Turbo Toad on here used this setup. Not sure how well it worked but it moves the slave cylinder back as a puller.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 4:21 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 7:44 pm
Posts: 88
Car Model*: 1955 Dodge Truck
Rick Covalt wrote:
Turbo Toad on here used this setup. Not sure how well it worked but it moves the slave cylinder back as a puller.

That looks promising and less money.
If i have the room could fo this route.
All in the planning stage right now.
The question is can I shorten the long truck type shifter fork to gain clearance?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 4:45 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 5898
Location: So California
Car Model*: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Hydraulic master and slave cylinders occasionally will fail.


But the external slaves are easy to replace (as compared to the slaves inside the bellhousing)..................


Just learn how to clutchless shift (and practice ever so often)...............

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 5:14 pm 
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Board Sponsor
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9523
Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
The question is can I shorten the long truck type shifter fork to gain clearance?


If it's a slot type fork, you can use a car fork which is another 3/4" shorter... You can cut and weld a fork, but reinforce it well as
they tend to bend or snap under heavy force or heavy clutch cover levers depending on the type of clutch you use
(diaphragm doesn't take much... but the 9 1/4" B&B does need some leverage to actuate compared to the 10" and diaphragm style clutches....)...
shorter will mean less leverage so the cylinder will need to exert more force to do the same job compared to the longer stock fork, FYI...


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 7:42 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 7:44 pm
Posts: 88
Car Model*: 1955 Dodge Truck
emsvitil wrote:
Hydraulic master and slave cylinders occasionally will fail.


But the external slaves are easy to replace (as compared to the slaves inside the bellhousing)..................


Just learn how to clutchless shift (and practice ever so often)...............

Any part and/ or system can fail, that is not the deal breaker for me unless there is so much of a reliabilty issue that renders these hydraulic systems to consistently break down.
There is a real issue of space so i will need to decide on how I will proceed.
I knew how to shift without a clutch 40 years ago, whats your point?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 7:53 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 7:44 pm
Posts: 88
Car Model*: 1955 Dodge Truck
DusterIdiot wrote:
Quote:
The question is can I shorten the long truck type shifter fork to gain clearance?


If it's a slot type fork, you can use a car fork which is another 3/4" shorter... You can cut and weld a fork, but reinforce it well as
they tend to bend or snap under heavy force or heavy clutch cover levers depending on the type of clutch you use
(diaphragm doesn't take much... but the 9 1/4" B&B does need some leverage to actuate compared to the 10" and diaphragm style clutches....)...
shorter will mean less leverage so the cylinder will need to exert more force to do the same job compared to the longer stock fork, FYI...

Yes of course all good points.
Travel and force as well as fork strength all considerations.
I would like to hear from those who have actually done this who are using a hydraulic release bearing setup...thanx


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 7:56 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 7:44 pm
Posts: 88
Car Model*: 1955 Dodge Truck
Thanx all for your comments.
I will only post now on progress.
Anyone who has converted to a hydraulic clutch system or release bearing can post if you want or message me.
Thanx again.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 3:13 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 5898
Location: So California
Car Model*: 64 Plymouth Valiant
The RX7 should already have the clutch master and slave. Just adapt the leftover slave.


My point was you won't get stuck when one of the cylinders eventually fails. (and not many people know how to clutchless shift)

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 6:11 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2018 7:44 pm
Posts: 88
Car Model*: 1955 Dodge Truck
emsvitil wrote:
The RX7 should already have the clutch master and slave. Just adapt the leftover slave.


My point was you won't get stuck when one of the cylinders eventually fails. (and not many people know how to clutchless shift)

The RX7 master has a 5/8 bore and the slave is tiny not good candidates.
Yes in a pinch could drive if hydraulics failed.
A Fluid Drive coupler would help...lol


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