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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2019 6:56 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 12, 2019 3:15 pm
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Car Model*: 75 Duster
I just picked up a 1975 Plymouth Duster with a /6. On the way to pick it up the guy told me he ran the heater this morning and now believes there may be an issue with the Neutral Safety Switch because when you make right turns the car shuts off. He also thought it could be a bagel issue because the car had less than a 1/4 tank in it. I picked up the car and took it to a gas stations and had no problem in the turning at first. As we got further along the car stalled more and more frequently. We pulled off and the carb was smoking as soon as fuel was added like it was way too hot. We replaced the thermostat and limped it home but still stalled out 3 more times. I parked it turned the wheel left and right and it stayed running. Put the car in drive and turn right and the engine dies. Could the guy be correct and I need a new neutral safety switch? My buddy suggested changing out the water pump because it looks like the radiator isn’t cycling either (no pull in the hose and no pressure in it either). Also the radiator never gets hot we can pull the cap even while the car is/has been running. I was also thinking it may be electrical and there is too much pull with the power steering. Anyone have any suggestions?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 3:16 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 12739
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Is it just the engine dying or does all electric shut off. Could be a loose connection on the neutral safety switch/wire, but I wonder if it could also be a loose ammeter wire under the dash. I had that 'dies while turning' once and it was a loose ammeter wire. Not sure if this applies to a '75, but worth checking. You might check float level too? Does the car shut off and then come back on when you turn back the other way or re-center the steering while driving?

Best,
Lou

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 3:31 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 6991
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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Don't see how it could be related to the neutral safety switch. That only will have effect on whether the starter engages.
Once the engine is running, the neutral safety switch does nothing.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 4:30 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
Posts: 1585
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model*: '23 T-bucket
Charrlie_S wrote:
Don't see how it could be related to the neutral safety switch. That only will have effect on whether the starter engages.
Once the engine is running, the neutral safety switch does nothing.

*****************************************************************************************

Charrlie's right, to a point. Buuuttt....there's a conductor that still carries +12vdc down that way, in order to power the reverse lights. If the shift linkage or steering linkage is rubbing against that particular wire while in a drive position, it might be shorting to ground momentarily causing an excessive voltage drop that kills the ignition. I would think it would be blowing fuses or burning fusible links, though, so maybe I'm reaching a bit.

The cooling issue; Radiators don't "cycle"... the thermostat does that job. Just because you don't see active flow in the radiator doesn't mean there isn't any. Many times, it's hard to see it. It might be wise to get an infrared temp gun and measure the temp at the thermostat housing, or head surface, to see if it's actually getting too hot. Could there be a problem with the water pump? Sure, it's been known to happen that the impeller rots off of the pump shaft, but it's not too likely.
As far as the carb "smoking", that's actually somewhat common right after shutting off the car. A slight amount of gas will still be in the intake or plenum, and will evaporate quickly due to remaining heat. This will cause a fog of fuel vapors to drift up and out. The fact that you saw it suggests there's no air cleaner assembly on top of the carb. You should really remedy that.

Roger


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 4:39 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:29 am
Posts: 1010
Location: Texas
Car Model*: 1964 Valiant convertible 225 automatic
Not that it's your problem, but when I got my '64 Valiant it would stall nearly every time I turned left while driving. Sitting at idle, it never did, no matter how much I turned it. A carb rebuild fixed the problem and I didn't question the physics.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 5:38 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 4616
Location: IRWIN PA
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I had a bad coil one time that would cut out only on turns.

Replaced it then things were great.

Greg

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 9:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 11:29 pm
Posts: 489
Location: Seattle, WA
Car Model*: 75 Dart SE (2),75 Swinger, 74 Dart Sport,91 Ram RV
Take the air cleaner assembly off. Very firmly grasp the upper body of the carburetor, then TWIST it (horizontally) clockwise & counterclockwise. Look closely to see if the top of the carb is twisting with your hand, but the bottom part of the carb is staying stationary on the intake. In other words, the carb sections have come loose from each other. If loose, then you have a massive air leak through the loose body gaskets, causing the carb to "lean out" and die when going around turns. This is because the weight of that steel air cleaner assembly is too much for the 3 little screws that hold the bottom 1/3 of the carb body to the rest of the carb. The 3 screws are installed from the bottom into the pot-metal carb, and tend to loosen or even strip out the pot metal threads in the body. If that is your problem, you can TRY to Gently tighten those screws. If the carb body threads are stripped out, or nearly stripped out, I don't recommend going to the next size SAE screw, nor do I like Helicoiling the hole. BUT I do find cheating by jamming the next larger diameter METRIC screw in there works really well. :wink: I hope that is your problem, cuz it's a farily easy fix. Replace the carb-to- intake gasket (Felpro 60274) always, as it squishes (technical term) down and is usually not reliable to re-use. Let me know, because I'm curious. :)

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