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 Post subject: Voltage Regulator
PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 6:01 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:18 am
Posts: 25
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Car Model:
Driving my kid around last night when the ammeter pegged high, dropped low and then stayed on the discharge side. So I went home, good thing I was close by, I guess. Now when I was driving I had the blower on low and my headlights on, and it normally runs on the first discharge mark nearest center. (if that doesn't make sense I'll try to find a picture.) Only last night it was running really low, like 3/4's of the way to the left. So I applied a little gas, and it shot right back up. Which is when it pegged and dropped.

What the <bleep> did I do now? I was able to drive home fine, and the battery is not new. Revving the engine at all did nothing to move the ammeter gauge, but when I got home, I let the car sit in park, turned off the light, turned off the blower and gauge went right back up to center.

That's what leads me to believe its the VR and not the alt, but w/o a meter I have no way of checking.

Any suggestions before I put my hand through another of my windows.


P.S. Thanks Doc, hope you got mail from me!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 6:16 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Feb 24, 2005 7:04 am
Posts: 269
Location: harford co. maryland
Car Model:
without any test equipment I would inspect all the wiring between the batt. and the alt. then id throw a voltage reg. on it and see what happens (as long as you didn't see or smell any smoke)


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 Post subject: Smokey Bear
PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 7:23 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:18 am
Posts: 25
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Car Model:
Didn't see any smoke and I have no sense of smell, so no I didn't smell any either. I'll give the wiring a lookee-loo and see if I spot anything, like a bad ground or loose wire. Then I'll try a new VR, any recommendations as to which brand, I believe SSD mentioned a Standard-Bluestreak brand as being a favorable choice.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:16 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24248
Location: North America
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Is this a '60-'69 car with single-field alternator, or a '70+ with dual-field?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 9:25 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:18 am
Posts: 25
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Car Model:
Its a '71, so dual field. Sorry about that.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 1:25 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24248
Location: North America
Car Model:
NAPA Echlin VR-38 or Standard-Bluestreak VR-125.

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 Post subject: Ooo-keee
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 4:40 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:18 am
Posts: 25
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Car Model:
Thanks Dan, if the monsoon stops here, I'll try and get that this weekend.

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 Post subject: Its not.
PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 12:41 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:18 am
Posts: 25
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Car Model:
It's not the VR, just replaced it and the ammeter is still sitting on the discharge side and will not move regardless of engine rpm. Where do I look now?

One neat little tidbit, when I use the brakes, the gauge actually goes towards the charge side, ever so very slightly.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 3:30 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2004 4:30 pm
Posts: 370
Location: West Mifflin PA
Car Model: 1967 Dodge Dart 270
You need to check your voltage with a meter. At the voltage regulator and at the battery. My guess is that your alternator is acting up. I had the same problem on my Dart. When I checked the voltage at the battery it would bounce all over the place from 11 to 16.5 volts with the car running.I switched the VR and had the same readings. It caused all kinds of weird lighting problems.I Found one of my rectifiers on the alternator was burnt off. :shock: If you need a meter to use let me know.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 3:38 pm 
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Location: North America
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Time to test the alternator.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 3:49 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2004 4:30 pm
Posts: 370
Location: West Mifflin PA
Car Model: 1967 Dodge Dart 270
Good stuff Dan :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 1:48 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:51 am
Posts: 855
Car Model:
Just a suggestions; Mopar alt's have really easy-to= swap inexpensive brushes; you don't even have to open the alt up. Problems like yours are often, but not always, just badly worn brushes.

Digital multimeters are so cheap nowadays I keep on in every car, just in case I need one.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 2:33 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14151
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
KBB_of_TMC wrote:
Just a suggestions; Mopar alt's have really easy-to= swap inexpensive brushes; you don't even have to open the alt up. Problems like yours are often, but not always, just badly worn brushes.



I have actually changed brushes with the motor running to win a bet before. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Taking money from GM guys is like taking candy from a baby. :lol: :lol: :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 2:41 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24248
Location: North America
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slantzilla wrote:
I have actually changed brushes with the motor running to win a bet before. :lol:


Hey, that's a good trick! Another: Find someone who insists that the secondary side of the ignition has to have a ground path back to the coil for the ignition to work. Remove a spark plug wire, shove a bolt in it, hand it to him, and start the engine. After he climbs up off his butt, ask him to describe the ground path between himself and the coil. :mrgreen:

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

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