Hi guys,

Got the Erson cam for the engine.... it's the TQ30M/TQ20M grind. When degreeing the cam it appears that we are off by 7 degrees. We got the timing gear and chain from Summit (it's a Comp). I called Mark today to see if he's had this issue and what to do. Mark said that there is a company in Florida that sells gears/chains for the slant 6 with off-sets but, and I quote, "my memory sucks....can't remember the company's name.....the manufacturer has a kangaroo on it's logo ... put it on the Forum and someone will help".

Thanks,
John Brayton

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1962 Plymouth Valiant

Why buy a new timing set. Just get a set of offset bushings, and use those to degree the cam into where it is supposed to be.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Rollmaster makes the timing set with crank offset notches...

For about $10-12 you can buy an over the counter (at your local speed shop, or special order from chain shop) offset bushing set for chevy/chrysler(same offset bushings) like Charlie says, and drill the cam gear and get it back to where you want it...(these are sold by Comp, Lunati, Spectre, etc...)

-D.Idiot

For those of us who are grappling with the concept of degreeing a cam, rather than just lining up the marks, can you explain (or show) just how the methods of moving the cam (or crank) with relation to the timing chain. What is an offset bushing? I seem to remember woodruff keys that were offset, but that was a long time ago. I've also seen timing sets with multiple keyways, which I guess are for degreeing the cam. I hope I've asked the question correctly. OK folks - let 'er rip!

ATB

BC

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'64 Dart GT convertible, 64 Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust (the Az Dart) & a sixty THREE Dart 170 2-door post sedan in faded blue and rust. (future project)
Early Dart Disorder (EDD) is real, and I've got it!

I have never liked the multi notch crank gears. To change timing with them you have to remove the cam gear, anyway, to get the crank gear off, and you need a puller to do that. With the cam bushings, just remove the cam gear, change the bushing, reinstall the gear, done.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Check these links.
http://www.lunatipower.com/Tech/Cams/Ho ... eACam.aspx
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cNoVRLb73c
http://www.iskycams.com/degreeing.html

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Offset bushings:


Notice the different offset dimensions in the bushings, these allow you to adjust the position of the camshaft relative to the crankshaft after you drill out the standard dowel pin hole that is in you camshaft gear (one has no offset so you can go back to "zero" if you need to)

See the dowel pin sticking out of the cam face here:


That pin locates or "clocks" your cam gear position which is "fixed" until you use the bushings which make it "adjustable" by changing the advance/retard using the different offset bushings. Clear as mud right?

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1966 Coronet Deluxe

I just personally like the keyway ones,no chance of bushing comming out,not that I ever heard of one doing that.Guess I just like the little kangaroo stamped on them,and have run them on both engines with no streach on chain or any signs of wear on sprockets,then again I am pretty easy on my engines.

I used the JP billet JP5613.Do lock tite the cam bolt after you degree it and I went to 50 ft lbs of torque after I had one come loose at the recomended 35lbs.Guzzi Mark

Ok, so, what's the downside of drilling the timing gear?? Is this something a machine shop must do or have any of you done the drilling yourself?

John Brayton

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1962 Plymouth Valiant

I wrestled with the rollmaster set and was not appreciative of the crank gear being tight enough to score the crank nose badly (180 grit didn't take those out after heating and removing the crank gearthe easy way).

The standard method that Charlie desribes is good, especially if you are fine tuning things or decide to 'clock' a couple more degrees in the advance later on.



The only downside would be that you rev the assembly to the moon and the tension on the chain goes slack enough to cause the camgear to bounce a bit and the bushing gets displaced....If you use loctite ont eh cam bolt that should be no problem, second safety feature would be to use a cam stop like doc has detailed to keep the bolt and gear from walking forward. Best insurance I've seen is to drill the gear and cam in place once degreedin and install a second pin into the nose of the cam through the gear thus ensuring if the bushing does comeout the cam stays timed (this also spreads the load of the rotating cam to 2 pins instead of one...).

Drill press is the best to drill the cam gear, instructions will give the bit size to use. But, I have used a Dewalt cordless and a level when the drill press is unavailable wiht no ill effects.

-D.Idiot

The washer under the cam bolt keeps the bushing in place, just insure the bolt doesn't back out.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I had one /6 where thecam bolt washer didn't quite cover the hole for the pin or the bushing. The trick is to CAREFULLY drill the hole from the back of the gear, but not completely through- so you leave a slight "lip" on the front of the gear (most bushings are a little thinner than the gear so this works). The lip positively holds the bushing against the cam. Now a drill press makes this easy-if you have or can borrow one & you want a SHARP bit that's the same size as the bushing.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

I just know what works and holds up to 10 second beatings on a slant.Billet is stronger than cast and my opinion easier than drilling and fiddleing with those bushings.MY OPINION.Guzzi Mark

It is a matter of preference. Some like the bushing better, some like the multi key sprocket. Either will work.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170