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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 6:49 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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[quote="SlantSixDan"]It's not; that's the kind of sour-grapes excuse sometimes used by those who won't admit the limits of their knowledge and ability.[quote]

NO SIR, it is NOT! I followed your stupid ass instructions to a "T", and I still have the problem, WHY?
I've dealt with your condescending arrogance before on this subject and this is the answer I get?
So tell me "MR. KNOW-IT-ALL" why doesn't it work even with a heat wrap on the line over the motor?? You're such the expert, why don't you come fix it for me!
OH, I see, you'll probably cop out and tell me it's because I drive a A-100van!


Last edited by 69a100 on Thu Mar 10, 2022 1:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 10:26 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
SlantSixDan wrote:
Slantsix83 wrote:
So if it's modern gas


It's not; that's the kind of sour-grapes excuse sometimes used by those who won't admit the limits of their knowledge and ability.

Quote:
isn't their some sort of aftermarket pump? As well as replacing all the hoses to more modern?


It's good practice to go through and replace all your flexible fuel hose with fuel injection hose marked 30R9. The problem isn't being caused by your fuel pump not being the right type (or being incompatible with modern gasoline, etc).

Other things to check: make sure your manifold heat control valve isn't stuck in the heat-on position, and make sure your carburetor is in tip-top condition with a correctly-adjusted float (that hasn't absorbed gasoline and gone heavy) and the correct thick, insulating base gasket. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download, and tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post. A further modification to reduce the tendency of engine heat after shutdown turning the carburetor into a boiling teakettle is to make a heat shield. There was a factory item, but it has been unavailable for many years, so this would be a make-it-yourself item. Diagram is in this thread.


Thank you I will do that after. Get a heat shield and the fuel injection hoses. Also I attached a picture of my engine compartment maybe I'm missing something that simple that is causing the problem if you could take a look at let me know that would be great.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 1:13 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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First thing I would do is get rid of as much rubber hose as possible, you're asking for a fire with that much rubber. I see you already have the hose draped over the top of the engine like Mr. Know-it-all's suggestion, but yet you still have a problem like I do, so what does that tell you about how well his idea works??
Maybe the shield is the answer? I don't know as I don't have one? Dims on that heat shield would sure be nice, but I'm sure that's asking to much from him to get anything like that posted on here?
Secondly, go to the car wash and hose all that crud out of the engine compartment, and the motor itself, gunk will help retain heat, and that's a bad thing! Also move the filter so it's in a up-down position, and get a metal one as plastic will melt and/or crack and also cause fire! Good Luck


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 2:29 pm 
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Slantsix83, you have a Private Message.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 2:29 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 7395
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Quote:
I have no clue. Where is it located at? What does it look like?


This article shows the lean burn ignition mounted on the air filter housing.My 85 has it behind the battery. Distributor also would not have vacuum advance on it if it still running the lean burn system. The lean burn system can make them shut off dead without notice. Also can be hard starting...etc. You honestly probably have a couple things going on. Our clan has had 4 or 5 trucks all 82-85 models and have never had a hard start "hot" issue with any off them. And most of them have headers that put a lot more heat under the hood. There is just a lot more area under the hood of a truck than say an early A body. Can you look down the carb after it has set for 4 hours or so and see if the carb has gas in it. Is the accelerator pump squirting? Is it possible for gas to be draining back out of the carb? Just thinking out loud. Good luck & keep us posted.

https://www.slantsix.org/articles/leanb ... rticle.htm

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 2:30 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 2:38 pm 
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Turbo EFI

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 2:41 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon May 26, 2014 4:02 pm
Posts: 339
Location: Vermont
Car Model: Slant Six powered M37
I would be inclined to experiment with raising the hood upon shutdown. No it is not a long term solution, No it won't work in the middle of a city where you leave the vehicle unattended.

I had fuel percolation issues with a Holley 1945, where I never had any issue with a Carter B&B carb. I can not say why the difference occurred, but my short term solution so I could get firewood out of the woods that year was to remove the hood. Problem solved. NOT suggesting you get a different carb, and a Carter B&B will not work very well anyway.

69a100 wrote:
I've learned to live & deal with it, and NOT put myself into situations where it happens! If it does happen, I hold my foot to the floor and crank till it fires. It's a flood/vapor lock type condition that's happening, nothing you do can fix it because it's the gas that's the problem. Good Luck


If I had gone through all of the usual fixes: Heat shield. Carb spacer made out of that plastic stuff I don't know what it is called. A cold air intake, maybe a cold air box loosely enclosing the carb to have the intended effect of keeping the hot engine compartment air away from the carb... And checking the manifold heat control valve for proper operation...

Then I would consider an electric fuel pump back at the gas tank, with a momentary switch. NOT for full time use, but only for 3-5 seconds at a time to re-prime the mechanical fuel pump. Electric fuel pumps are generally a bad idea on old cars due to the challenges in proper wiring, fire hazards after a collision, and their lack of dependability unless correctly done... but correctly done with a momentary switch seems like it would prime the fuel system for those in hot climates.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 3:04 pm 
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Turbo EFI

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That fiber board was about .080 thick falls apart .Thin ply wood works best Here is home made for 1920 holley. No heat soak trouble after that. One thing to note 1920 fuel bowl in front easier to shield.Image


Last edited by matv91 on Thu Mar 10, 2022 6:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 3:11 pm 
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Turbo EFI

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Do you have radiator fan shroud?. If not engine to hot at idle


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 3:30 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
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Your truck was built with 3 nipple fuel filter ,one return line back to tank sender, not the top of tank, thats the roll over vent valve. Image


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 3:42 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
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At engine shut down residual fuel pressure will be bleed off by return line, and down hill slant on line will let fuel drain back to lower level so that it will not boil in fuel line at top of engine. Image


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 4:21 pm 
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Turbo EFI

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 4:40 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
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Dodge truck 318 no radiator shroud off road low speed operation . Engine and electronics ,carb and fuel line too hot. After market electric pusher fan in front of radiator with after run timer fixed it. Never did find shround.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 4:53 pm 
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Turbo EFI

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