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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 5:04 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 1492
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Blue box green arrow chrysler ignition box does not look factory, only mounted with one bolt. Green arrow at carb where does that line go any where?. That looks like line to vacuum advance on distributor. Take a picture of your distributor.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 5:20 pm 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 1492
Car Model:
Image Got any thing looks that in engine bay, thats resistor block used with blue box.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2022 5:22 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 7397
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Yes you are right. Someone converted to regular electronic ignition. Sorry I didn't see it myself! :D

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2022 3:12 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
matv91 wrote:
Blue box green arrow chrysler ignition box does not look factory, only mounted with one bolt. Green arrow at carb where does that line go any where?. That looks like line to vacuum advance on distributor. Take a picture of your distributor.


No the line doesn't go anywhere. The mecanic I took it to just put a hose on there. Need a better picture?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2022 3:13 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
matv91 wrote:
Image Got any thing looks that in engine bay, thats resistor block used with blue box.

Would that be behind the blue box?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2022 3:14 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
matv91 wrote:
Blue box green arrow chrysler ignition box does not look factory, only mounted with one bolt. Green arrow at carb where does that line go any where?. That looks like line to vacuum advance on distributor. Take a picture of your distributor.

Should I change the ignition box tp a factory one?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2022 3:15 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
matv91 wrote:
That fiber board was about .080 thick falls apart .Thin ply wood works best Here is home made for 1920 holley. No heat soak trouble after that. One thing to note 1920 fuel bowl in front easier to shield.Image


Have any spare one to sell?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2022 3:18 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
matv91 wrote:
Do you have radiator fan shroud?. If not engine to hot at idle


No I do not


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2022 3:21 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
Jase wrote:
I would be inclined to experiment with raising the hood upon shutdown. No it is not a long term solution, No it won't work in the middle of a city where you leave the vehicle unattended.

I had fuel percolation issues with a Holley 1945, where I never had any issue with a Carter B&B carb. I can not say why the difference occurred, but my short term solution so I could get firewood out of the woods that year was to remove the hood. Problem solved. NOT suggesting you get a different carb, and a Carter B&B will not work very well anyway.

69a100 wrote:
I've learned to live & deal with it, and NOT put myself into situations where it happens! If it does happen, I hold my foot to the floor and crank till it fires. It's a flood/vapor lock type condition that's happening, nothing you do can fix it because it's the gas that's the problem. Good Luck


If I had gone through all of the usual fixes: Heat shield. Carb spacer made out of that plastic stuff I don't know what it is called. A cold air intake, maybe a cold air box loosely enclosing the carb to have the intended effect of keeping the hot engine compartment air away from the carb... And checking the manifold heat control valve for proper operation...

Then I would consider an electric fuel pump back at the gas tank, with a momentary switch. NOT for full time use, but only for 3-5 seconds at a time to re-prime the mechanical fuel pump. Electric fuel pumps are generally a bad idea on old cars due to the challenges in proper wiring, fire hazards after a collision, and their lack of dependability unless correctly done... but correctly done with a momentary switch seems like it would prime the fuel system for those in hot climates.


Any sites for links for those carb spacers I couldn't seem to find any.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2022 3:24 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
matv91 wrote:
Your truck was built with 3 nipple fuel filter ,one return line back to tank sender, not the top of tank, thats the roll over vent valve. Image


I see. I don't have those metal lines I'd have to zip tie it somehow with aluminum zip ties. And which of the 3 tubes on the sending unit would that look up to? Right center or left? Also would I have yo do anything special in routing the wire to the return?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2022 3:28 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2021 9:40 am
Posts: 88
Car Model: 1983 D150 Slantsix 4 speed
matv91 wrote:
At engine shut down residual fuel pressure will be bleed off by return line, and down hill slant on line will let fuel drain back to lower level so that it will not boil in fuel line at top of engine. Image



I see. Also is my mecnaical fuel pump upside down? On the picture you sent the connectors downward. On my side the connectors are upwards.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2022 3:50 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 2372
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
To answer an earlier question that is a factory ignition box or maybe an aftermarket replacement for one. If it is good (and being as how you can start the engine it is probably good. But I didn't see a vacuum advance pod on the distributor whoever converted it only did 1/2 the job. Where is your timing set? With the lean burn distributor it can't change timing. Maybe there too much or too little for starting? The original ignition (on that truck) would have been either hanging off the air cleaner housing or in the fender behind the battery. Someone has halfway converted it to the much better earlier ignition. I wouldn't go back.
But you need to go the rest of the way. I'd get that done and then look into the insulator that was mentioned.
On
The fuel pump question look good at the block where it mounts. The shape of the flange in the block and the pump is not symmetrical. Look and see if the block and fuel pump flange meet up, should be able to answer that question for yourself.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2022 3:55 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:00 pm
Posts: 2372
Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
You're not gonna find anything commercially available for the spacer/insulator, you'd have to make something, wouldn't be that hard at all to do


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2022 8:14 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 1492
Car Model:
Using factoty parts book for illustration purposes. Your full pump looks fine to me. There are three metal lines going to fuel tank. Fuel supply line 5/16 the big one, fuel return line 3/16 small with 1/4 hose fitting at ends and vapor canister to tank roll over vent valve. Roll overr valve is plastic one hose connection 1/4 it will break no replacement available.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2022 8:22 am 
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Turbo EFI

Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 2:19 pm
Posts: 1492
Car Model:
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